that looks great, very clear.

yup good job

I just updated my Z1 with the Bluetooth update CD that I downloaded from Ducati's web site.

It loaded 100% on the first try and the Connector 2 ground bypass worked flawlessly!

(I removed the flashing circuit that I had in earlier)

I made a couple of calls from my truck and NO MORE ECHO, ECHO, ECHO.....

Thanks to everyone here, this site is the best!!!

I was wondering if this update would work even though I dont have a bluetooth module installed. I want to eliminate the flashing stuff and just ground the wires. Do I need to have bluetooth to do this update?

No just the disc is all.

No you do not need the bluetooth module to install the update. The only end result if you don't would be that it changes the bypass method. But yes it will work and update the Z1.

ducatiboy, without reading through 42,000 posts, did you ever get your z1 to update past 99%. What do I do if that happens to me? I don't want to deal with backing up the hard drive and all that jazz. Did it lock the unit up completely unusable?

REad the page he goes into detail on how to get around that too.

I know it might have been asked before but how would I tell if my Z1 is prior jul or after july? Sorry, I bought mine used...

It's in the link I posed which here I asked people to read to see if it was clear enough. I take it, it wasn't clear enough.

This may have already been asked somewhere, but I can't find anything on it. Can I ground the two wires directly to the ground on the factory radio harness, or do they need to be physically grounded to the vehicles body?

This may have already been asked somewhere, but I can't find anything on it. Can I ground the two wires directly to the ground on the factory radio harness, or do they need to be physically grounded to the vehicles body?

Either one, they should be electrically the same.

I spoke to an installer about bypassing my Z1 when he installs it next week and he said that he can do it, but that it will require a switch and that I have to switch it on and off whenever I want to have the unit be bypassed. I told him about this forum and ducati's helpful guide and that he would really only have to ground 2 wires (the parking break wire and then probably the TelMute wire) and he says that probably wouldn't work. Is that true? I hope not!

He also said that if he bypasses it, I won't be able to use the Nav Traffic function in the future, because it needs to pick up the motion of the car (?), or something like that.

Help guys! These so-called "experienced" installers don't seem to know as much as you all on these forums.

he says that probably wouldn't work. Is that true? I hope not!

If you follow the directions on this site I posted above, it will work.

He also said that if he bypasses it, I won't be able to use the Nav Traffic function in the future, because it needs to pick up the motion of the car (?), or something like that.

He is right, if he does this stupid switch thing, the nav traffic and all nav functions will not work when bypassed, which is why you don't want him to do this.

What they want to install will actually not work at all after a period of time. It will trick the Z1 into thinking it's standing still when you flip the switch and then you can do what you want and when you flip the switch back it goes back to thinking it's moving. The problem is with that switch, the internal gyro's will not be able to be switched out so it will eventually sense the motion and that switch set up will not work.

OR it's possible they are just putting the parking brake on a switch and you flip it to access the locked out features, you might as well hook this to the parking brake itself, because if you flip the switch while moving it will still not work and now you will have another pop up message every time you start the car about the parking brake not hooked up correctly.

The instructions I have (and which are here) have literally helped thousands of Z1 owners.

Trust me I have seen all sorts of switch "mods" and they don't work. The only thing that does work reliably is the instructions I posted on my site. If your Z1 is made after July 06, grounding 2 wires will allow EVERYTHING to work ALL THE TIME... NO EXCEPTIONS.

Help guys! These so-called "experienced" installers don't seem to know as much as you all on these forums.

Well your installer knows a lot about how to take the dash apart in many cars. How many Z1's has this guy played with 1? 5? We (collectively) have been playing with 1000's of them and sharing our information. Your installer is at a disadvantage.... as we are on how to take the dash apart in a 1978 Chevy Chevette.

Really, trust me and us. What I instructed is CORRECT. Do it. Tell him to do it. If he won't take it somewhere else. Print out my web site and show him, he will be pleasantly surprised when it works better than any Z1 install he has ever done (and you will be happier for it).

Run, don't walk away from this "professional" he is full of shit....

Ducati, Thanks so much for your great response! You made me feel a whole lot better. I think I will just print out your instructions, including the pictures, and take it to the installer and tell him to forget everything he ever knew was right, and follow the instructions to the T!

I'll keep you updated on the install (which should happen early next week) and let you know if all went well.

You really are a pillar of this forum, Ducati, and a priceless asset to all those in need.

just had a quick question, I have the later production Z1, so I just need to ground 2 wires to bypass, will grounding the e-brake wire cause any problems with calibration or anything? thanks

nope.

Hey Ducati, new development and I hope you can help (nothing is ever simple!),

I just received my refurbished unit in the mail today, and saw that the original manufacture date on it was on May 2006. I know this falls before the June/July 2006 date for the ground 2 wires, and that your circuit may be needed... however, I don't know if it was refurbished post July 2006 and was updated with the latest software. I guess my first question is, do you know any way that I could tell when it was refurbished (maybe by calling Pioneer and telling them the serial number off the unit?)?

Secondly, if there IS no sure way to find this out pre-install, then what is the best way to instruct the installer to go about bypassing it correctly? Should he just install it like he normally would, without grounding the wires, and the do the Light Flash Bypass to see if it works before closing up the dash? If it does, then keep it that way, and if it doesn't, then that probably means the unit is updated and he can proceed to grounding the 2 wires?

I know I'm probably making this more complex than it needs to be, but I just want to make sure it gets done right the first time, and I don't have to keep going back and spending more money, just to get this in my car properly and bypassed correctly.

Thanks for all your help so far, and I hope you can help me work this out.

They system could be powered up on a test bench. Then try the flash technique to bypass. If that don't work then it's 2 wire ground time. To make the avic think you flashed the lights the illuminaiton wire in the harness will have to be tapped to +12volts on the power supply for a second or so. Just follow his directions and tap the ill. wire to +12volts each time it states to turn on the parking lights.

cntrylvr79 is right. Try that flash the lights first (you can do it on a bench and see if it works). As long as the parking brake wire is not grounded when you do it, the only way to get into the locked out menus is if it works. If everything is unlocked after the flash, then you are good to go.

The other way isn't as easy to test, because just the parking brake part of the 2 wire ground will work on the bench, and in the installers shop and even for the first (up to) 100 miles (depending on vehicle).

So the easiest way to test with the car motionless is to try the headlight flashing (or just do what cntrylvr79 said and touch the ILL wire to 12V at the right time). If that doesn't work, try the 2 wire ground, that will work for the first few days, after that if it doesn't lock you back out again, it was done correctly.

Do you think it would be easier to just go ahead and do the Bluetooth update that I keep hearing about, and then have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass?

If so, where can I find the bluetooth update and how do I load it up onto the Z1? If it costs money, then I may not want to do it.

The problem is, the installer I was going to go with does not have a "test bench", so I think he would have to install it into the car first to test it out.

Do you think it would be easier to just go ahead and do the Bluetooth update that I keep hearing about, and then have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass?

Might be. But there is some risk with updating your Z1 with a disk.

If so, where can I find the bluetooth update and how do I load it up onto the Z1? If it costs money, then I may not want to do it.

You didn't even read the thread you posted in did you? HINT: read my first post in this thread.

The problem is, the installer I was going to go with does not have a "test bench", so I think he would have to install it into the car first to test it out.

Test bench? It's tough to test "video in motion" or "motion lockouts" on a bench. Unless it's either a very long bench or the bench is on wheels.

They system could be powered up on a test bench. Then try the flash technique to bypass. If that don't work then it's 2 wire ground time. To make the avic think you flashed the lights the illuminaiton wire in the harness will have to be tapped to +12volts on the power supply for a second or so. Just follow his directions and tap the ill. wire to +12volts each time it states to turn on the parking lights.

This is where I got the test bench thing.

What are the risks in using that link to burn a CD and update my Z1 with it? Has there been a high success rate in updating the Z1 with this file?

Would it be possible to just have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass, then if it quits working after 100 miles, then just do the update via CD? Would that work?

They system could be powered up on a test bench. Then try the flash technique to bypass. If that don't work then it's 2 wire ground time. To make the avic think you flashed the lights the illuminaiton wire in the harness will have to be tapped to +12volts on the power supply for a second or so. Just follow his directions and tap the ill. wire to +12volts each time it states to turn on the parking lights.

 

This is where I got the test bench thing.

 

What are the risks in using that link to burn a CD and update my Z1 with it? Has there been a high success rate in updating the Z1 with this file?

 

Would it be possible to just have the installer do the 2 wire ground bypass, then if it quits working after 100 miles, then just do the update via CD? Would that work?

That sounds like a good plan