like ^^^says anyone with a vw or an audi self install the Z1? im curious if i should atempt this or just get it professionally done

I have a VW R32 and I posted install pics in the post 'post pics of your install' And although I didnt do it myself I had a local guy from the vwvortex.com forum do it for me. That would be a problem for you, as he lives in NY but I think you would have better luck, quicker responses, posting on vwvortex.com. Good luck. BTW. It's an awesome system.

I installed mine in a 2005 Golf TDI. Wasnt too but you need to round up some extra parts to make it easier.

I've got the Z1 in my 2000 S4. Physically the install was pretty straight forward, but you really do have to bypass the stock amps and replace the door speakers if you have the Bose system, since it doesn't play nice with anything else but itself. I found that replacing the door speaks was really hard to do, since the Bose speaks are of some very strange proportions and 2ohm. So, I used the stock speakers, and utilized an amp that was 2 ohm stable, and it sounds great. If you've done a few installs in the past, then I'd say go ahead and do it, but plan it out, first. If you've never done it, pay someone.

I'm interested in this too. I have a 2000 Passat with a tape deck on top, empty pocket and the climate controls on bottom. So the unit will fit. I have my Z1 already to verify that. I took the VW tape deck out, but I'm not sure how to secure the Z1 to the hole where the old radio used to be. I ran across this Pioneer part number in my Googling, ADT-VA133. It says it's a double din install kit for the Z1, but I can't find any pictures. Imola, how did you secure the Zi to the dash?

well, I have to admit- I kinda cheated. I had the D1 which came with a cage around it (like most aftermarket decks). I've got 2 #10X2" self tapping screws (@ the 3 & 9 o'clock positions) that secure the deck to the radio stack innards. Since the Z1 fit, I just slid it into place, and it's kind of press fit in there. It holds fine under hard launches in the S4, so, it's not going anywhere. Sorry it's not much help, and my digital camera is down for the count right now, so I can't take any pics. Let me know if I can help further.

I have a 2004 Jetta GLI, only issue was finding the speed sensor wire. Everything is working just fine and with a lil dremmel work and the pioneer kit, all is well.

About to do a custom install into the shop's 90Q (custom dash kit being made)

What kind of Vdub - Audi do you have?

I've got a 2006 GLI which is a pain because the electronics are all CAN-BUS.

But, despite people saying you need a $300 CAN-BUS adapter to get a speed pulse signal, you don't

The white wire with a purple stripe behind the insturment cluster is a regular speed pulse wire that you can tap right into with no worries.

word ! WAT ^^^^ HE SAID

Here's a pic pf the D1 installed but, it's coming out this weekend for a Z1. I've since modified the trim so the inner corners are sharp and not rounded.

thread said:

Here's a pic pf the D1 installed but, it's coming out this weekend for a Z1. I've since modified the trim so the inner corners are sharp and not rounded.

Thead, Nice to see you post over here as well. I will probably be hitting you up with some questions on Vortex IM. I am ordering my Z1 today.
Does the cluster have to come out to get to the speedpulse wire??

Do you have sat module?? how did you do the antenna?
I don't want to add an additional sat antenna and want to use my stock antenna if at all possible. I have a pkg 2 w/XM.

Do I need anything other than the Metra 70-9003 harness adapter?

Dustin

thread said:

Here's a pic pf the D1 installed but, it's coming out this weekend for a Z1. I've since modified the trim so the inner corners are sharp and not rounded.

Nice install but out of all people, what are YOU doing with an ipod? Ech! :)

dionga said:

Thead, Nice to see you post over here as well. I will probably be hitting you up with some questions on Vortex IM. I am ordering my Z1 today.
Does the cluster have to come out to get to the speedpulse wire??

Yep, but it's just two torx screws and a good yank.

dionga said:

Do you have sat module?? how did you do the antenna?
I don't want to add an additional sat antenna and want to use my stock antenna if at all possible. I have a pkg 2 w/XM.

Same as my car. You can't use the stock SAT antenna. I put the pioneer one on my dash in front of the center vent and it works great. I put the GPS antenna behind the insturment cluster so you can't see it and it also works great in that location.

dionga said:

Do I need anything other than the Metra 70-9003 harness adapter?

Dustin

Butt splice connectors at least. And a multimeter comes in handy. To find the reverse wire just read my rear fog DIY in the MKV forum and it will tell you chich wires are the backup lights. You can tap right at the ECU and don't have to run a wire all the way to the back of the car.

thread said:

dionga said:

Thead, Nice to see you post over here as well. I will probably be hitting you up with some questions on Vortex IM. I am ordering my Z1 today.
Does the cluster have to come out to get to the speedpulse wire??

Yep, but it's just two torx screws and a good yank.

dionga said:

Do you have sat module?? how did you do the antenna?
I don't want to add an additional sat antenna and want to use my stock antenna if at all possible. I have a pkg 2 w/XM.

Same as my car. You can't use the stock SAT antenna. I put the pioneer one on my dash in front of the center vent and it works great. I put the GPS antenna behind the insturment cluster so you can't see it and it also works great in that location.

dionga said:

Do I need anything other than the Metra 70-9003 harness adapter?

Dustin

Butt splice connectors at least. And a multimeter comes in handy. To find the reverse wire just read my rear fog DIY in the MKV forum and it will tell you chich wires are the backup lights. You can tap right at the ECU and don't have to run a wire all the way to the back of the car.

Nice, I used your DIY for the LED tails and rear fog so I have that printed out.
Thanks for the help.
Dustin

dionga said:

Nice, I used your DIY for the LED tails and rear fog so I have that printed out.
Thanks for the help.
Dustin

I'll do a DIY for this kind of install then. Sounds like it's needed. Only difference is that I've got the DIETZ can adapter so I get everything like speed pulse, lighting, parking brake, backup light, and steering wheel controls through it. But, it's $300 and we're still working out how to get the track forward and back buttons working since the MFD has to be in radio mode for those to work. Basically the DIETZ unit has to fake being a can enabled radio.

This is one of the reasons I'm getting the Z1. I hate the D1 track ahead and back "button" it's hard to get accurate when the car is moving.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmMKV!!!!

thread said:

dionga said:

Nice, I used your DIY for the LED tails and rear fog so I have that printed out.
Thanks for the help.
Dustin

I'll do a DIY for this kind of install then. Sounds like it's needed. Only difference is that I've got the DIETZ can adapter so I get everything like speed pulse, lighting, parking brake, backup light, and steering wheel controls through it. But, it's $300 and we're still working out how to get the track forward and back buttons working since the MFD has to be in radio mode for those to work. Basically the DIETZ unit has to fake being a can enabled radio.

This is one of the reasons I'm getting the Z1. I hate the D1 track ahead and back "button" it's hard to get accurate when the car is moving.

Wonder if prices will come down on the adapters :shock:
Enfig had one coming out(maybe this is it) and it was priced like that I heard.
Too steep for me to justify at this point. I assume that I will have to tap the fuse panel for switched power? Constant should be at the harness.

On a side note, just realized that my "retained power" has never worked.
everything shuts off when I pull the key, not when the door opens as it did on my MK IV. :?

dionga said:

Wonder if prices will come down on the adapters :shock:
Enfig had one coming out(maybe this is it) and it was priced like that I heard.
Too steep for me to justify at this point. I assume that I will have to tap the fuse panel for switched power? Constant should be at the harness.

On a side note, just realized that my "retained power" has never worked.
everything shuts off when I pull the key, not when the door opens as it did on my MK IV. :?

Yep, it's the ENFIG one. I'm testing it for Christian. It DOES make retained power work though which is cool. Radio stays on until you pull out the key.

Switched power can be tapped at position 45 on the fuse panel on the side of the dash. Double check it with a multimeter first though.

It's in!

Ducatiboys mod works like a champ. Only caveat is tha ton the VWs, if you stop at ACC for a bit and then crank the switched power shuts off and on quickly and the ducati thing does not catch it. So, just go from off the crank and you're good.

Another issue I need to look into more tomorrow is that the unit is not sensing when the backup light is on. I've tested the connection with the multimeter and when the car is in reverse there is about 4 v going through it and when it's not in reverse no voltage is going through it so I'm kinda confused. Well, unless i's expecting 12v but, that seems odd.

Overall this thing rocks.

thread said:

Ducatiboys mod works like a champ. Only caveat is tha ton the VWs, if you stop at ACC for a bit and then crank the switched power shuts off and on quickly and the ducati thing does not catch it. So, just go from off the crank and you're good..

To be honest, that shouldn't be necessary. If you want to debug a little or whatever, you can email me at one of these http://www.sminntech.com/contact.html or through PM's whatever you are more comfortable.

Generally if you wire the red wire from my circuit to the same exact red wire from the Z1, if the power drops out to make the Z1 restart, then it should make my circuit reset as well. But as you start working with electronics and all sorts of other vehicles out there, I noticed how different they can be.

I recently found someone with a 2003 Chevy which when he cranks his engine, the Z1 did not reset, but my circuit did. Very werid. If we nail down a bit of the timing, I can at least try to make something custom for you so that you woudln't have to turn the car on to crank so quickly.

I've got a multimeter, what would you like to try? Jus verifying that your circuit sends a flash pulse down the ILL wire to the HU when I go from acc to crank?

thread said:

I've got a multimeter, what would you like to try? Jus verifying that your circuit sends a flash pulse down the ILL wire to the HU when I go from acc to crank?

You are sure the red wire from my circuit is connected directly to the red wire out of the Z1 right?

Well, you say when you turn the car on and wait, then crank the engine, the flasher doesn't bypass things right?

Does the Z1 reset when you crank over the engine?

Find out if the flasher circuit does, watch the orange output of my circuit with a meter.

See what happens on my circuit's boot up. Turn on the car, the output should be 0v for 1 second, then 12V for 5 seconds, then flicker a bit over one more second, then ground after that.

Crank over the engine, does the Z1 reset? Does my circuit go through this cycle again? Or is the output from my circuit 0v after that?

I'm working on a slight modification for my circuit for these issues. So far you are the second person who has had any issue like this, but I'm sure I can come up with something.

ducatiboy said:

You are sure the red wire from my circuit is connected directly to the red wire out of the Z1 right?

Yep, unless I misinterpreted the diagram it goes something like this. Red wire from car connected to red wire from your circuit and the red wire from the Z1

ducatiboy said:

Well, you say when you turn the car on and wait, then crank the engine, the flasher doesn't bypass things right?

Correct.

ducatiboy said:

Does the Z1 reset when you crank over the engine?

Ye, you got it.

ducatiboy said:

Find out if the flasher circuit does, watch the orange output of my circuit with a meter.

See what happens on my circuit's boot up. Turn on the car, the output should be 0v for 1 second, then 12V for 5 seconds, then flicker a bit over one more second, then ground after that.

That's exactly what it does if I just go right to crank and don't allow the Z1 to boot up while it's in ACC. That's also what happens if I just go to ACC and stay there.

ducatiboy said:

Crank over the engine, does the Z1 reset? Does my circuit go through this cycle again? Or is the output from my circuit 0v after that?

Nope, it stays at zero.

ducatiboy said:

I'm working on a slight modification for my circuit for these issues. So far you are the second person who has had any issue like this, but I'm sure I can come up with something.

There's bugs in everything that eventually get worked out so no worries.

One other interesting thing happened after installing it and driving around last night. When I'd put the car in ACC or start it the Z1 would think the illumintaion wire was hot even hen it was not and the lights were off. Pulling the constant fuse cleared.

And, remember I mentioned my backup was not being seen by the Z1? Well, when the harness not conneted to the Z1 and the car in reverse the voltage on the wire was just under 12v where I'd expect it to be. If I plugged it into the Z1 the voltage was only 3.5. So, I tapped directly into the reverse wire instead of the one provided by the Dietz CAN adapter and now it works fine.

Oh, and vehicle dynamics isn't working despite speed pulse working. I rarely used it with the D1 so I'm not overly concerned with it and maybe it just needs more time to calibrate.

Oh, and it's in :D



I love how it matches the blurple of the VW and the bluetooth integration rocks and the iPod control is light years ahead of the D1s.