thread said:

ducatiboy said:

You are sure the red wire from my circuit is connected directly to the red wire out of the Z1 right?

Yep, unless I misinterpreted the diagram it goes something like this. Red wire from car connected to red wire from your circuit and the red wire from the Z1

Yah, that's right. Sometimes people will hook the red wire from the Z1 to the red wire on the radio harness, but then connect the red wire from my circuit to another 12v switched power supply which can cause issues.

thread said:

ducatiboy said:

I'm working on a slight modification for my circuit for these issues. So far you are the second person who has had any issue like this, but I'm sure I can come up with something.

There's bugs in everything that eventually get worked out so no worries.

Ok, not only do I think I know what's going on, I think I can tweak my software to work with this. Of course your's has the "old" (or curent) software. I'll make some modifications, try it on my truck and send you something to switch it out for. If you don't mind taking your dash out again to put a different circuit in.

thread said:

One other interesting thing happened after installing it and driving around last night. When I'd put the car in ACC or start it the Z1 would think the illumintaion wire was hot even hen it was not and the lights were off. Pulling the constant fuse cleared.

That's very weird. You are getting the ILL wire off the little add on device aren't you? If you are then I would bet it something to do with that device. If not, then I'm not sure what happened there, maybe something to do with the Z1?

thread said:

And, remember I mentioned my backup was not being seen by the Z1? Well, when the harness not conneted to the Z1 and the car in reverse the voltage on the wire was just under 12v where I'd expect it to be. If I plugged it into the Z1 the voltage was only 3.5. So, I tapped directly into the reverse wire instead of the one provided by the Dietz CAN adapter and now it works fine.

This scares me about that Can adapter. It sounds like they can't supply enough current for the reverse sense wire or the Z1 requires WAY too much current. I know most people think in terms of voltage. It's 0V when off and 12V when it's on, but the supply has to be able to source enough current for whatever is reading it. If you read the can adapter with a multimeter, it requires VERY little current. Since the can adapter supplys very little, then it's fine. But it seems like the Z1 requires much more current to "read" the reverse signal than the can adapter supplys. If the current needed by the Z1 is more than the can adapter can supply the voltage will drop on it's output. That's probably what's happening.

thread said:

Oh, and vehicle dynamics isn't working despite speed pulse working. I rarely used it with the D1 so I'm not overly concerned with it and maybe it just needs more time to calibrate.

It should work, I think it needs about 50 miles of calibration or so (maybe less, I never timed it).

ducatiboy said:

Ok, not only do I think I know what's going on, I think I can tweak my software to work with this. Of course your's has the "old" (or curent) software. I'll make some modifications, try it on my truck and send you something to switch it out for. If you don't mind taking your dash out again to put a different circuit in.

Nah, I can get it apart in under 10 min. And the circuit is easy enough to switch out. I didn't use sauter on it until I was sure everything worked.

ducatiboy said:

That's very weird. You are getting the ILL wire off the little add on device aren't you? If you are then I would bet it something to do with that device. If not, then I'm not sure what happened there, maybe something to do with the Z1?

I read it and the ILL had 0 voltage on it. So *shrug*

ducatiboy said:

This scares me about that Can adapter. It sounds like they can't supply enough current for the reverse sense wire or the Z1 requires WAY too much current. I know most people think in terms of voltage. It's 0V when off and 12V when it's on, but the supply has to be able to source enough current for whatever is reading it. If you read the can adapter with a multimeter, it requires VERY little current. Since the can adapter supplys very little, then it's fine. But it seems like the Z1 requires much more current to "read" the reverse signal than the can adapter supplys. If the current needed by the Z1 is more than the can adapter can supply the voltage will drop on it's output. That's probably what's happening.

Yeah, the D1 would read the reverse input with just 3v on it. Guess the Z1 is just more picky.

got a buddy who is installing a z1 in a mkV GTI. the dash kit for the z1... is i commercially avail. will my auto guy be able to get one and the harness to allow power after the ignitoin is switched off (with key still inserted)

if you can point me in the right direction it would be great. thanks.

quikdub said:

got a buddy who is installing a z1 in a mkV GTI. the dash kit for the z1... is i commercially avail. will my auto guy be able to get one and the harness to allow power after the ignitoin is switched off (with key still inserted)

if you can point me in the right direction it would be great. thanks.

Dash Kit: http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/s ... H_KIT.html
The pocket slides out and then cut the bar to make it double din.

Antenna Adapter: http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/s ... _EU55.html

Harness: http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/s ... _9003.html

Day shots:

ImolaVirus said:

I've got the Z1 in my 2000 S4. Physically the install was pretty straight forward, but you really do have to bypass the stock amps and replace the door speakers if you have the Bose system, since it doesn't play nice with anything else but itself. I found that replacing the door speaks was really hard to do, since the Bose speaks are of some very strange proportions and 2ohm. So, I used the stock speakers, and utilized an amp that was 2 ohm stable, and it sounds great. If you've done a few installs in the past, then I'd say go ahead and do it, but plan it out, first. If you've never done it, pay someone.

This is not true in my 2001 S4, I used a metra kit with the Z1, the Metra has RCA inputs... Works like a charm... Sounds better than Stock. But the Bose speakers and amp are good.

Ya I have a 2000 Audi A6 with the z1 we made a kit from two single din slots to one double din, looks great to most people, me however and very picky. I work at Ultimate Electronics and I have installers that rebuild the whole kit using fiberglass and automotive paint and isomount it to look factory, little more expensive but the looks are a huge improvement.

I have a 2004 Audi A4 that came with the single-DIN Audi Symphony II. It was a wild install as the A/C controls had to be sanded down, moved down below, custom brackets made to secure the double-din Z1, etc. But its kickass.

Thread, I don't quite understand the can-bus adapter issues.

Is there something called the Dietz adapter that is available now? (I googled it and there does seem to be something along those lines, but I don't read German). I also heard that the Euro can bus is different so it doesn't quite work (maybe from you on another forum).
[Edited]

Is the one enfig is working on different from the one that is "coming soon" from peripheral electronics?

Will these things allow the button to work that changes the mode of the MFD (the display between the tach and speedometer) (e.g. from audio to settings etc.?) I can see that this would be difficult or impossible, as in some modes the track buttons don't go to the radio at all but rather to control the MFD.

(Long shot) Will the audio information from the Z1 be displayed on the MFD, as currently with the stock radio?

Thanks,

Andy

thread said:

dionga said:

Wonder if prices will come down on the adapters :shock:
Enfig had one coming out(maybe this is it) and it was priced like that I heard.
Too steep for me to justify at this point. I assume that I will have to tap the fuse panel for switched power? Constant should be at the harness.

On a side note, just realized that my "retained power" has never worked.
everything shuts off when I pull the key, not when the door opens as it did on my MK IV. :?

Yep, it's the ENFIG one. I'm testing it for Christian. It DOES make retained power work though which is cool. Radio stays on until you pull out the key.

Switched power can be tapped at position 45 on the fuse panel on the side of the dash. Double check it with a multimeter first though.

i have a jetta and i did my d2 myself no problems yet (knock on wood) but yeah for me i had to cut the plasic behind the OEM radio to get mine to slide in all the way .. no biggie easy as pie with a hacksaw :-D then it fits perfect! i reccomend doing it if you know what you are doing .... i had luck and my friend who had the car b4 me had a pioneer head unit so i just cut that wireharness off and matched the colors to mine really easy

:D :D :D
http://amazing-videos.info/

^^^ Third time's the charm. yet another spam post.

ImolaVirus said:

I've got the Z1 in my 2000 S4. Physically the install was pretty straight forward, but you really do have to bypass the stock amps and replace the door speakers if you have the Bose system, since it doesn't play nice with anything else but itself. I found that replacing the door speaks was really hard to do, since the Bose speaks are of some very strange proportions and 2ohm. So, I used the stock speakers, and utilized an amp that was 2 ohm stable, and it sounds great. If you've done a few installs in the past, then I'd say go ahead and do it, but plan it out, first. If you've never done it, pay someone.

I used the stock Amp in my 2001 with a custom harness to send the line level inputs from the Pioneer to the bose at line level. Works fantastic, sound is better than before I installed the Pionner with the same speakers and Amp. As a side note on the S4, if you replace the Hazard light trim piece with the stock black trim, it looks much better than the wood trim.