ScottinPollock

Just a thought... If he did a battery swap, he disconnected all power to the unit, thus resetting it. Have any of you with this issue tried just temporarily disconnecting the battery?

At this point, I would take the time to do a little discovery. My truck came with an outboard amp for the subwoofer, but it was configured with speaker level inputs. Dunno why, perhaps they just didn't want to have to deal with shielded cable runs. I am assuming you have pulled the stock head unit, and can fire it up on your bench and determine what the output to the JBL amps' input is. Wire a small speaker to one of the signal outputs that was previously connected to the amps' inputs and see if it can drive it. If so, your amps have high level inputs.

The meter was used for lab measurements in the course of loudspeaker design. Again, I don't "listen" to sine waves to determine how any part of a system "sounds".

I've used an oscillator for making some speaker measurements and mapping impedance curves, but using an SPL meter, not my ears.

You don't have that luxury. Yes, you can EQ the crap out of it, but that doesn't make it better; just colored to your particular palette, and in the case of radical change, adds a number of other issues that just make things worse. In the case of live recordings, you're not there, so you have to rely on the producers and engineers that are there to faithfully record the experience. Unfortunately, we all have great music that sounds as though it was recorded through a couple of tin cans and string. To me, engineering is just as much an art as the performance itself. Like you, I have a lot of gr

"Researches in loudness measurement". doi:10.1109/TAU.1966.1161864; but I can not find the entire document online unless you want to pay for it. Regardless of what signal processing is used by the engineer, it is mastered to be heard as intended, without any weighting applied. I have recorded everything from commercial pop/r&b, to live, audiophile direct-to-disk and direct-to-digital, and the end result was always what the producer and I felt it should sound like given the monitoring gear available (which was usually pretty good). Not contradictory at all since those sy

In a word, no. Of course that is assuming the 'JBL' amps are better than what the head unit offers (which is only 14W RMS/ch @ 4ohms).

Pioneer uses price fixing tactics with their authorize dealers so it will be difficult to find one that would risk losing their authorized status to save you a few bucks. Try and find a gray market dealer that has been around for a while and will honor the warranty themselves. HookedOnTronics comes to mind.

Not knowing the input specifications of the existing amps makes it tough to tell you the right way to go but one would assume they use line level inputs.

Not at all. Anechoic chamber measurements serve to take the real world out of the equation; to measure what the device is capable of, sans any effects introduced by boundaries. In fact, you'd find it pretty disturbing to listen to anything in one. No. Flat response is flat response. The 'C' weighted measurements, or more accurately, the 'A' weighted measurements (the one based on Fletcher/Munson curve used in the 'loudness control' you mention below) were designed to make up for the difference in the perceived loudness of sine waves versus the full spectrum of noise the ear and brain e

You do realize that even individuals with perfect hearing will interpret loudness relative to frequency along something akin to a bell curve, and that this curve changes drastically depending on reference level. In a nutshell, it is impossible to do what you suggest and be anywhere in the ball park without an accurate SPL meter and calibrated capsule. Combine that with the severe off axis response heard due to the placement of in-car speakers, and the numerous near field reflections and standing waves present in a small cabin, and you won't even be close to a bad guess. Even the square-wave

While I am a big fan of what Pioneer's MCACC did for my home theater system, It got just about everything wrong in the car (which is not all that surprising given the location of most in-car speakers). Suggest turning the auto EQ and TA off. First set up the TA manually using a tape measure. Then start with the crossover at 100Hz and 18dB/oct. Play something with a good bass line and heavy kick and turn it up. Raise the subwoofer level so it is a bit on the heavy side. Toggle the phase button in the subwoofer settings (you'll have the correct phase when it sounds fuller rather than thinne

Not possible.

I don't have an answer for why your's behaves differently than mine, but the fader setting here is remembered after the car is turned off and back on.

No.

My 4100 works fine with Moto X on 5.0, so it is not a compatibility issue.

I'll be curious to hear what they tell you. IIRC they don't honor warranty if purchased from non-authorized dealers. They'll probably just point you to a local authorized repair facility.

Here's that site. https://fail0verflow.com/blog/2014/enhancing-the-avic-5000nex.html

Yeah soap will significantly impede evaporation, and leave a residue behind. I remember seeing a site that showed some disassembly of these units. If I can find it again I'll post a link.

As you know, those switches are directly below the bottom of the screen,and in the direction gravity travels. This is one of the reasons I opted for the 4100 (removable screen for cleaning). The switches feel like the membrane type, and I'm guessing you got some water under the membrane which is shorting out some of the traces. It may evaporate and return to normal. Although if it sits in there a while it might corrode the exposed traces making for unreliable operation. You might try a hair dryer on low around the bottom of the screen, but you may have to pull it apart and clean things

Did you use water to apply the protector?

What phone? What OS?

What... No, these are better! The only steering wheel mounted buttons in my truck are for the cruise control. But with the aid of some very fine research by JVDE, I put this together from a handful of parts and a 8x2cm board. Functions from left to right are (skip-volUp-voice-volDwn-prev). Works great with Android Auto as well.

There is a pinhole on the front that will reset the unit.

I don't think this is a voltage issue, but instead a timing one. While I don't have 'push to start', I have seen this in my truck. Most cars disconnect accessory circuits while the starter is engaged. So the unit sees power when the ignition is on, power is removed while cranking, and restored after the starter is disengaged. I normally put in the key and turn the switch directly to the crank position. When I would do this, I would occasionally see the long delay in the unit booting up. But when I turn the switch to ON and leave it there for a second or two before moving it to the crank po