dustpuppy

Good enough for me Thanks for the info!

One more question The GEX-P20HD gets poor reviews in a lot of places, but everyone seems to have lower-end or older decks that are complaining. Does anyone have this on a Z110BT and is using it heavily? My suspicion is like with the FEEDS app (and it's poor reviews) that most are related to Pioneer not including features to lower-end receivers. I probably won't use it, but if it's everything it's supposed to be, it'd be a nice addition. Thanks. --EDIT-- I did see the thread on the "F" forum (no hyphen in search, duh) --- still would like to hear from any Z110BT owners if

I got to thinking about it and it could actually be for a specific type of older make vehicle. What strikes me as odd is that specifically mentions that "on the ignition". A head unit install is pretty easy, but not so easy that you need to put such dumbed-down instructions like that; so I'm wondering if it meant something else. I e-mailed pioneer support; I really don't expect much of an answer as I'm sure they get all sorts of basic questions and aren't used to getting questions that aren't already covered in the FAQ/manual. The only though I did have was that it needs a fraction o

No one really had any idea why it says this in the install when I asked about my D3, but now I'm going over the Z110BT manual and the same odd entry says: "This product cannot be installed in a vehicle without ACC (accessory) position on the ignition switch." Why does it say this? Thanks.

Hi guys, Upgrading my D3 for a Z110BT soon, but I'd like to sell my old unit first. Oddness that I had with this last install that I didn't have on my other vehicle: 1) I get alternator noise regardless unless I re-ground the RCAs, after that, no problem. I don't have a second amp to check with, but even the HU is grounded to the same position (hunting this and other issues brought me to doing a re-ground with distribution). That leads me to believe that something went wrong internally along the ways. Any idea if this will affect the powered outs, and/or how much it would cost t

E-mailed both PAC and Amazon. PAC started out with the stance "don't buy online because you can't tell" and threw in the dig 'online discount sites' --- I pointed him to his own site that recommended a list of online retailers . . . but it's up to their inventory which revision is sent. Amazon said they have no way of knowing, but it can be returned without costing me shipping if it's the wrong software. If I'm forced to go local and pay full $80, I'll probably just pick up the Axxess ASWC. --EDIT-- These units can't be upgraded, even by PAC . . . which is pretty lame overall

Get a scosche passport - it works with the iPhone 3G. http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-passPORT- ... 312&sr=8-1 -Ernie

Hrm; my best guess is that it probably had some residual memory for linkage because I'd only lose the phone pairing rarely. Considering my last vehicle didn't go longer than 12hrs at a time without being driven, that's probably the best explanation. I'll sub it to 12V (constant) and cross my fingers that it's not a leech Thanks for the reality check -Ernie

2009 Mazda 6 GTi --- I assume anything else with keyless start would too (Corvettes, Porsche etc.). I *CAN* enable ACC easily since I drive a 6MT so I can just hit the button without the clutch in. The A/T drivers have to request it be programmed, so you have to hit the button repeatedly to turn it on, even when you don't want ACC. -Ernie

I'm re-adding my Avic-D3 setup to my new car and am going over the wiring instructions but I seem to remember that I wired the BT unit to constant 12V and it drained my battery over 4 days . . . I changed it to 12V ACC and it was fine . . . What bothers me is that the installation warns against installing on a car without an ACC position on the ignition. My new vehicle has keyless start and has no ACC in the startup sequence. Is this an actual concern? If so, what's the solution, a pulse timer? Thanks guys. -Ernie

There are several decent places to tap into the "reverse" area. Tail light bulbs are usually a last resort, since it's all the way at the rear of the vehicle. If you have a Manual Transmission, there is usually one given wire between the shifter and the cluster to indicate reverse gear. Failing that, automatic transmissions have a wire on the cluster harness to indicate reverse. If you've got a auto dimming mirror, it also has a wire for reverse (so it knows to not dim when you're backing up) - that is also another good area to tap in. Personally, I hate scotch locks - I've se

That's where I was confused; I thought they were talking about using reverse (backup light) to automatically send the D3 to display it, or hit a switch to do so as well . . . (hence, the diode suggestion) Sorry I wasn't more help.

You could wire up a switch directly to the reverse sense wire, providing you use a diode where you tap the actual reverse wire (so you don't backdrive your backup lights and turn them on unintentionally). Is this what you're talking about or are you asking about a feature that I don't know about? If that's the case, then the draw should be negligible enough to not really require a relay at all.

Somewhat long-term lurker; nothing to contribute so never registered. Frimware 1.1.2 just became available for the classic --- one of you with a farked up classic who hasn't rolled back to that 1.0.2 version might want to give it a shot, in case it's been re-enabled. It lists "bugfixes" and "audio quality" which I saw elsewhere. Good luck, hope it works. -DustPuppy (Since I finally registered: Thanks for the p-brake mod thread )