dustpuppy

DVD-case-shaped I guess I should have said Took about 4hrs but the site came back up. Glad I decided to START the car during the upgrades rather than sitting with it on ACC freezing my butt off

Update -- 37 minutes later They've got a new site and it may be up by the end of today . . . try again later

Hi guys, Apparently I dropped enough hints and santa left me a DVD-shaped present under the tree with CNSD-110FM on it . . . I decided to freeze my butt off and sit outside and install it this morning and, laptop in hand I get a 503 when going to https://www.pioneernavigationupdate.com/ E-mailing support gave me a 404 when I got to the button on the second page. Step #3 will be waiting another 40 minutes and seeing if phone support works. Anyone else run into this, or was it a fluke in the last day or so? I was going to post under Z series but I figure this is more gene

Hrm --- you need to remove 1 2 and 3. I have ALL of those problems as much as you're describing with the 110. Why on earth would anyone ever use shuffle?

I'd start by doing a hard reboot on the phone (hold both buttons for 10 seconds). My wife is complaining big time about the iOS4 on her 3G; very slow --- so much so it looks like there's other issues but mainly it's just trying to keep up with the user and fires 'late' for things. Sorry I can't be much more help.

Not really, I've just stopped wasting the effort of telling people to search. I don't even try to help them anymore. Saves me time and finger-strain. You'll come back, they always do Seriously though, I tried tricking out all the board options and I can see why people get frustrated and don't bother. I've actually discovered it's easier to read all of the threads on the first page of topics . . . you pick up more info than just searching; most of which you didn't even know you wanted to know.

Honestly it sounds like the stock amp went up, which (opinion) isn't necessarily a bad thing. If you get a new amp/speakers, it will undoubtedly sound better, though, it's costing you money that it wouldn't if it hadn't gone up . . .

Yer gonna get piled on with the "search" responses. 1) It's software --- to the tune of $200 if that post on those 2 threads was right 2) The iPod changes will annoy you, everything else will wow you (what iPod changes? no instant music, doesn't pause when on bluetooth, only mutes) I didn't notice a local bypass wasn't on the maps until a week ago so I didn't get to submitting the trouble-ticket before the maps were final (d'oh) . . . otherwise the 2009 maps were pretty accurate for my area. BTW, the D3 learns faster --- I'm still at 1700 miles and the 3d and distance aren't

Has it been doing it since day 1 or did it come on suddenly? How are you going to the amp? --Are you using something like a PAC to go down to base voltage or did you splice a harness to go out to the preouts? Before doing anything, disassemble the dash to take the unit out, but don't undo the wiring; see if the whine changes. For certain types of problems (power wires and preamps), moving the unit will remove a whine just because the preamp wires are situated farther from the power wires. That may not be it, but stranger things have happened. Also, you may want put a grounding

I have a 3G . . . have NOT had any bluetooth drops that I know of. Assuming you're on the latest version of the software, then I don't know of any issues. BUT since you bring it up, my wife's phone WAS dropping the BT on her Parrot a ways back . . . I'm wondering if it's software version. She has a 3G but on the last firmware since it bricked my phone for a short period and does weird things. IIRC, the latest firmware was more directed at the 3GS rather than the 3G . . . my phone seems to be a bit 'dumber' with e-mail in that it takes a bit for notifications to process (you can glanc

I know what you've got; my SWI was similar; essentially you have to go in from 2 different sources which is a pain. In my case the 2009 Mazda6 had NO instructions to start with concerning BT so my controls were 'laggy' when I was using the regular ones (not the BT, only what went to the stereo). If there aren't instructions already on PAC's website, they'll probably get some in soon enough; that will undoubtedly require running resistors to two or more of the wires, and one to the BT harness (overhead) which you won't have a harness for. In my case, I had a male pin from another har

Cool. Some residual charge was built up somewhere along the line. Hunting a grounding issue is OK if it was something you didn't do right, but faulty electronics take forever to figure out. Alternator noise is worse because a bench test is out of the question. Glad you're fixed!

*faints, then twitches* I *hated* my bose; it was like a CANCER that took a month to initially cut it out. I assume you're using something like a PAC module or similar to revert to an appropriate line level; if you haven't touched anything, it's hard to know what went wrong. It could be as simple as pulling the fuse to the radio (I mean the factory fuse that powers the amp) for a few hours, forcing it to re-initialize or if the original setup somehow went out, you may need to replace it (like the PAC module). Who did the install initially? Do you have any changes to your system r

"iPod pause is not supported on this unit during BT calls or VR so there is no way to turn it on." --I see that, it'd be nice to get it back though "As stated in the manual, the pioneer site and this forum many times, you must have the proper iPod cable if you want full iPod support." --I have one on order; when I was looking around on the product sites, lots of users say that the cable was unnecessary and that anything will work . . . that was clearly wrong after I fired it up yesterday afternoon. --------------------------- So the first part of this thread was mostly wishful thin

Alternator whine. What is your setup? (amps etc.) Any abnormal cargo/passengers that could have bumped something and messed up a ground? I need to send my old D3 in for repairs after some wire-giggling on another unit did something to the RCA ground on the deck -Ernie

What's the learn status? 1) make sure the unit is firmly in the dash 2) make sure antenna is affixed to the metal plate (it needs that) that came with it 3) reset learning if this isn't a new unit or if VSS wasn't plugged in before From there, find some back streets with very little traffic and reset the position at an intersection. Take it 'for a ride' --- turns are better for learning in my experience, as are onramps and offramps. What vehicle do you have this in? My Mazda takes a LOT longer to learn than my CR-V did; I had a D3 now I've got a Z110BT and it was doggy until

Is everything disabled in settings except for audio source (2 entries)? If so, there's no ground on park. -Ernie

I have the latest iPod and I have to say, I'm sort of surprised how odd the interface is compared to the D3. Don't get me wrong, getting to an album/track/artist is everything I'd hoped it would be, and, the fact that the navi now can show/keep the song title up is great . . . Oddness: Bluetooth calls no longer pause the iPod (laaaaame -- that was the single best feature of the D3 . . . and I laugh at my wife's system for only muting the stereo!!!) -- I couldn't find a feature to invoke this; anything? Cable - I tried a basic sync cable and couldn't get it to output sound unless I p

Lag in response is probably a resistor thing. I had the old version (before they KNEW that the 09 Mazda6 had bluetooth) and it was dead slow with a straight setup. I got done putting mine in yesterday (had to run a wire to the passenger's kick w/ a second resistor) and it's now spot on. I think it has to do with the car's original setup and how well researched the PAC instructions are. Overall, I have to say this is more complicated than a basic bypass and they could easily think out a solution better (DIP switches come to mind). Making it firmware flashable via USB would be nice

I managed to reverse the backup wire and p-brake when re-pinning the power harness. Now, on to getting used to the new interface; some weird stuff there . . .

Okay, clearly we've got a case of installer-error, but it seems to not detect the P-brake on: 1) Did I bypass? Yes. -bypass pin (mute wire) seems to be 100% seated correctly; it looks like the others -bypass pin is grounded (0 resistance to ground) -parking brake pin is grounded (0 resistance to ground) 2) Getting a "configuration error" screen? -No; it just disables everything that you'd suspect they would for no p-brake. 3) Did you RECHECK the bypass? -Yes, I did; I wiggled the wires, I cut and redid the ground, everything 3 times ---------------- I bypassed my D3 with

Ground, reground, re-reground. 1) Make sure the ground on the head unit is soldered REALLY WELL. 2) Make sure the Ground on your amp is solid (you made your own) and you're using a cable that's bigger than you need 3) Make sure the amp housing touches NO metal If that fails: 4) Cut the ground to the deck and run a wire directly to the same grounding location as the amp; if it's a long run (to the rear) go nuts with gauge, something like 14 or 12. If that fails: 5) From the ground on the deck, run another wire, strip 6" of it and wrap the outsides of the RCA metal connectors (th

What type of car is it?

I wish I had that kind of cash. Of course, I also wish the SHO came in a M/T. I agree with the above, about the only car I know that'll drop to 12V when things are working fine is Honda, who likes to monkey with the power (via the ELD) to get better MPG.

Oops, forgot to post this Yeah, I got mine too - same I do NOT look forward to splicing the harness in my car's existing BT harness though