maddog hoek

There are a few ways that you can do this that won't hurt your system but you really shouldn't go in any direction that you're not comfortable with. The units 'protect' themselves by shutting off when the voltage is too low but it's not good to stress it when you are cranking the engine. I solved the problem by using a stiffening cap and a couple of diodes to keep the juice flowing in the right direction. The Cap acts as a line conditioner during starting conditions and allows constant voltage during starting. There are better solutions but it works. search around and see what you're most comf

My '04 use to reboot when I went from accessory to starting the vehicle. It's more of a nuisance than a problem. If I stopped for gas while the kids where watching a movie on the ipod, I'd lose my place if I restarted. The voltage on the accessory 12v would drop to less than 10.8 volts for a second and cause the radio to reboot. Now I have the cap that I can turn on and off at will. I had a couple of hiccups along the way but it's very stable now. I only turn it on when I know that I'm going to be getting in and out. It'll actually leave the radio on for about 12 seconds if I don't turn it off

We could be twins!! Now you just need a mod or two and a stiffening cap to keep the radio from rebooting everytime you have to restart it. That was my biggest gripe with the install on my effonefittie. All you need is a .5 farad cap, a switch, two diodes, and some clean wiring gear and you're in business. i also have a couple of amps behind the rear seat (screw) and one 12" pioneer shallow mount sub in a custom box under the rear seat that is easily removable. I went with a pioneer 6.5" component set up front and some higher end 6X8's in the back. Keep going, feed the addiction!

Thanks!

I don't think this'll work if he wants to be able to view the camera at any time though. It's best to do an accessory 12v+ hook up. my $.02. well he already said that he ran power from the AVIC to the camera and tapped into the radio's acc wire for power for the camera in his original post, my post was just referring to what he need to do with the reverse wire so that the unit would automatically switch over to the camera, at no time in my post did i ever recommend that he hook up the power wire for his camera to the reverse wire in the car as of course that would not get him what he wan

I don't think this'll work if he wants to be able to view the camera at any time though. It's best to do an accessory 12v+ hook up. my $.02.

This should help me because I'm finding that the cap is feeding back into my delayed exit circuit. I need to isolate the voltage. It's still better than before, I just need to fiddle with it now.

I don't know if everyone has solved their problem with this but I just finally broke down and bought a .5 farad capacitor from the local Meijer store (think Walmart). I wired it to the ACC line and now I no longer have any problems. I will wire up a fuse inline to it but other than that it's good to go. As a side note my radio stays on for about 11 seconds after the car is turned off. I can live with that but a .25 farad capacitor may be better. The part I bought is a Scoche PSC.5F20PK. It's probably at walmart too. 45 bucks and no more reboots at the gas station and no more excessive idling!

I don't know what'll fit. This one's kinda small. http://cgi.ebay.com/CCD-SMALL-EMBEDDED- ... 3ca786ef75

Just listen to your music with the phase normal and reversed and see how it sounds. Back in the old days I would adjust the phase based on the mid/high frequency cut off points. Basically if you cut off your midbase speakers at a certain frequency say 125hz, the frequency from that speaker would 'invert' lower in the freq range. So then you would have to wire your subs 'backwards' in order to actually hear your base because the speakers would be cancelling each other out. In high end systems with 1000's of watts it's very noticeable, now a days, not so much. Kids and real world bills have kill

i googled it, it's a CMOS camera. Model No: TOP-313M-M Features: 1.)The smallest Car rear view camera:?18mm*26mm(L) 2.)1/4" CMOS(PC1030N),Super high effect 4.)420 TV Line 5.)120°wide view angle 6.)Waterproof IP67~68,anti-fog,anti-shock 7.)with reversing reference line

thanks, I'll try it out this weekend.

I was looking up some sys.txt codes and there are references to truck parameters on one of the 'sister' sites. Maybe these will help... http://forum.ppcwarez.org/viewtopic.php?f=277&t=54015

I finally got to change my default settings and it did not change the Columbus default city. Anybody find a definite answer yet?

I'm using an IDT mod, where do I find this variable?

I have the official update to 3.02 and my arrow will jump around at times also, mostly after boot up. It usually clears up in a few seconds and it never happens after I've been driving for awhile. I'm also using the hacked ezrider and the 2009.6 maps. It's not a daily thing so I don't let it stress me too much.

Looks like I shoulda read the entire post... I was in too much of a hurry to help out. It worked nicely on a friends avic. I wonder if deleting all of the .sav files would help short of reloading everything?

At times my elevation will show .2 miles. I attribute this to not seeing enough satellites. After a few moments it will go back to 860 ft which is the true elevation. (which is not .2 miles of course) I've had previous idt mods show up to 3000 ft without showing .6 miles, I can't wait to try this although I won't know if I really have the problem until I travel again.

use search to find the procedure for deleting the gps.para** files. there are 4 of them that probably got corrupted while you where booting up your system. You'll need the newest testmode files for 3.0.

Are you booting into the Pioneer Nav software? If so make sure you have the pioneer license files if you are not seeing any maps. The maps are definitely on the 2nd card, so if you have not successfully loaded it that's why you don't see them. 1st card should be 350mb or so and the 2nd one 1.72g. (US version).

Read through this thread and see if anything is helpful. A ton of folks are still looking for the 'Holy Grail' on this. viewtopic.php?f=34&t=26068&hilit=street+labels

Why is there even a license file? What is the point of the hacked ezrider? Original EZRider uses only Pioneer's license file. Hacked EZRider uses any license file you throw at it. License file is necessary to actually use maps, POIs, buildings etc. So I can replace the ezrider.exe with the hacked one and then load the 2009.6 map files? Will this effect my existing data.zip? You should be fine, the only possible issue is needing the license files. They are around somewhere... viewtopic.php?f=34&t=27547

did your constant power wire connection come undone or is it loose? usually I get the password request after coming out of testmode or playing with power connections only. maybe you have pulled your ground wire loose, that can do just about the same thing. (it still grounds through the antenna, I think)

how about that, I just figured out that my track logs doesn't work like other folks have reported. Now if only my Zumo played movies and mounted in my dash

i tried enabling the track logs, no change for now, I'll post up if different.