Wrathernaut

I've got the F90BT, 120gb iPod Classic, about 30gb full. It's about 4-6min.

I think the speed cam is about all you need. All you need is POIs for speedcam warnings in the usual speed trap locations and you're fine.

Nope, those are not supported at all. Pioneer would have to add a wire to connect to that sensor.

If only we could hack the software to re-route phone status request to voice command...

You'd have to give up the line in in the rear or wire in an RCA switch (I recommend an auto-sensing unit) or have that plug sticking out, mucking up the face, which, you may as well just use a standard stereo-to-stereo cable instead of going through wires. Depending on whether it defaults to on or not, you'd have to mount it so you could turn it on. You wouldn't be able to skip or pause or anything through the head unit either, so really you're going to have to have your audio device accessible to change the songs, and push something to get it to work. Really, I'd go with a simple ster

It's functioning as designed, so it is functioning as it should. It just doesn't include its own reverse video option, which would be nice. I just wouldn't pay any more to have a camera re-installed or anything.

I had to delete the phone from the paired phones list, and re-add it to remove contacts from it.

Small car battery would still be horrible to lug, as well as the whole full of acid thing. My vote is still for a small 12v battery & charger, with quick connects tapped in to the radio constant 12v and ground wires. Something like this: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... estid=5770 would do the job for $30 (batt + charger)

The 12.8-ish volts DC from the charging system will be fine for charging the mini-battery. If you were using lithium ion or nickel metal hydride, you'd need something more, but nickel cadmium will be fine. The main power feed for the stereo comes from the switched power, not the small constant power line. You cannot run the stereo from the constant power line, so the draw be negligible. If you're worried about it constantly hooked up, you can just keep the 12v power tool battery separate from your vehicle's charging system. Put in a couple quick connects to the constant power and groun

IMO you're fine. Reversed or not, it'll let you know if something is behind you before you start backing up. There's no reason you should be looking at the screen while moving backwards. There's no peripheral view from your tiny camera. If you're using it to see how many inches are between you and a large stationary object, reversed view doesn't matter.

...and keep it strapped to the AVIC? What are you suggesting? Yes. [to factory harness]--- (constant +12v) ---- [battery +] --- [Head unit] [to factory harness]--- (ground) ------------- [battery -] --- [Head unit] [to factory harness]--- (switched +12v) ---------------------- [Head unit] <-- Not used, just for clarification. I don't know how small of a 12v battery you can get, but you can always use 10 NiCad (not Li-Ion or NiMH) rechargeable AAA's wired in series. You can wire and secure each battery wherever there's room Just string them: [battery - on previous diagram

Buy a small 12 volt power tool battery, and wire it in parallel with the constant-power power wires on the stereo.

If you can deal with no album art, MediaMonkey is by far the best tagging software I've used, and it'll sync your iPod too.

I've picked the POIs to display and they show up in 2d mode, but not in 3d mode. They set to medium distance. Edit: - Nevermind they are showing up, just not as many as seems should be there.

The included cable is what sold me on the F90BT when they were nearly identical in price.

Two wires from the steering wheel connector go to a resistor, and then to the white wire on the PAC. One wire from the steering wheel connector goes to the ground. The PAC gets power and ground of its own, all according to the step-by-step by PAC. Works as well as stock, up to Pioneer's end of the deal, anyway. It'd be great to be able to preset up/down

Hopefully when 3.0 comes out they'll do something smart, like checking to see if there are updates, and if so, asking if you want to redo indexing or not.

In short, no, the 2D always has north up. There is a way to get the 3d to look like the 2d for the most part, and have much the same effect. I'm pretty sure it's in this thread. I still haven't figured out the POIs on 3D though, I have them set to medium, and they show up fine in 2D, but 3D shows no POIs.

And the G35 needs resistors.

POIs don't seem to show up in 3D mode on mine, but they do in 2D, what am I doing wrong?

Yes, you can, you just have to use the composite video cable from the PS2. It's the cable that comes with the PS2, so you should have one. The AV1 feed doesn't care what source you're using.

Video flipping is a moot point. You DO NOT back up looking at the video feed, the back up cam is for seeing if something is behind you that is shorter than the trunk of the car. The cam won't give you peripheral view at all, and most distort too much to accurately gauge distance.

I would agree that the F-Series is so cheap so that Pioneer can get them in as many hands as possible, now that 2.0 has made them acceptable for most people. If they can flood the market with them enough to kill the bad taste of 1.0, they may be able to charge a premium for its successor. You need to dilute the 1000's of people who paid $1000+ for a broken head unit with tens of thousands of people who paid $600 for a head unit that does a lot, if still a bit buggy.

And don't pay anyone for any sort of bypass, the hardware one here is free and EASY. Connect a few wires and it's done.

Hardware bypass is easy to do yourself if you install it. Steering wheel controls require an adapter ~$60 depending on your car's make and model. Crutchfield.com can get you the part number, which you can search on google and find a cheaper source - Crutchfield sells through amazon cheaper than though its own site for some items. If you can follow step-by-step instructions, you can do the steering wheel remote yourself, if you have a soldering kit. Any rear-view camera that uses a standard RCA video out will work.