FeloniusMonkey

Did anything ever become of this experiment? I still have a 6000NEX (F960BT), and am curious if it's worth trying to load another device's firmware.

I'm having a great deal of difficulty removing the map warning screen.  I keep getting read-only filesystem warnings.  What I've noticed is that the content of build.prop on /system actually becomes 0 in size immediately after the operation, even though it says it's read-only.  What's going on here?

I pretty much piggybacked off the iGo lib fix that was just recently released in this thread.  I assume that one works fine.

Below is the content of my Copy_Script.sh.  If anyone could explain what I'm doing wrong, I'd really appreciate it.

#!/system/bin/sh

ls -al /system >/mnt/udisk/system.before.txt
cat /system/build.prop >/mnt/udisk/build.before.prop

mount -o remount,rw /system

# upload modified build.prop
cat /mnt/udisk/build.prop >/system/build.prop

# alternative upload, which yields the same unfortunate result
#cp -f /mnt/udisk/build.prop /system/build.prop
#chown root:root /system/build.prop
#chmod 644 /system/build.prop

ls -al /system >/mnt/udisk/system.after1.txt
cat /system/build.prop >/mnt/udisk/build.after1.prop

sync

ls -al /system >/mnt/udisk/system.after2.txt
cat /system/build.prop >/mnt/udisk/build.after2.prop

reboot

EDIT: Actually, the original script (from iGO) is failing too.  Saw the same error in output.txt about not being able to chmod libigo_jni.so, which is also under /system.  What's the recourse here?  Why doesn't the mount command take care of this?

Yes, it is possible. You can do almost everything without dismounting unit. In case of problems (bricked device) you can simply revert changes by restoring device from full sd card backup (copy device in testmode).

If I have two 6000NEX's, and I purchase an item via the AVICSYNC store, can I sync it with both units?  In other words, how does the AVICSYNC store see the customer-- by the individual unit, or by the Android device used in tandem?  My guess is the former, since I didn't have to create an account to use it (at least, I haven't bought anything non-free yet).

Just a random note, completely unrelated-in-any-way-to-the-AVICSYNC-question-above, the "Development" thread mentions that you can use the same iGo device ID file for multiple devices, simultaneously.

I realized last night that the update process actually changes the content on the USB stick/card in some way.  This is of particular concern to those updating multiple units.

In the event you are updating multiple units, you will need to restart the process from scratch for each unit.  I had quite a scare when I got into what I'll call "an update auto-recovery loop" on my second vehicle.  After about an hour, I decided to reformat and recopy the firmware update to my USB stick.  Thankfully, it worked.

Simple question that someone can hopefully add to the FAQ:

I have a 6000NEX, which is one of the models with a microSD slot on the face.

Given the process(es) we have at present, would it be possible to be able to run any mods without having to open the unit to access the internal SD?  I saw some comments about being able to run your own ROM from an external card.

If not, are there any notable precautions (delicate ribbon cables, etc) to take, or helpful hints to follow when opening the unit; or is it just as intuitive as opening any other device?

Thanks.

Oh, one other concern, in case anyone knows: I've been trying to hit jenkins.casual-dev.com for a few days now.  Is it down indefinitely?

_{Well that kinda blows.  Thanks for the info though, guys.}

I've seen the posts about losing "bluetooth audio" when updating from x000 to x100.  Does this include losing use of bluetooth speakerphone functions, or just losing functions like bluetooth streaming audio/music (which I never use anyway)?

I just had this happen for the first time this morning.  Install was 3 days ago.  GPS antenna is in an unused center speaker slot under the center dash.  It is relatively far from electrical interference.  Turning off/on the car fixed the issue.

Also, yesterday morning, the unit suddenly "forgot" the GPS menu settings I had previously configured... settings like "don't warn me when speeding."  I can't help but think these two incidents are somewhat related.  Anyone experience this too?

Incidentally, after pushing the first "OK" warning screen (immediately after starting the car), the waiting icon spins for about 10 seconds before anything happens.  Is this normal?

I would be willing to give it a shot, but the problem is that it is only a .HAT file

The lack of a .YUK file suggests to me that it wouldn't change anything (Like Bluetooth Streaming)

The other problem is that I am already on 8.30 EU since this update is numbered 8.05

I'm not sure it would even take.

There is a method for "tricking" the firmware upgrade process, so you can downgrade.  Simply open the PEH403B_V08.05_1T.HAT file in a HEX editor (XVI32 is free and easy to use), and change the version number, which spans the decimal addresses 136-140.  In this case, you'll be changing "08.05" to "08.30".

But that's not all.  Since you're dealing with a different model than the firmware dictates, we'll need to break down some additional differences between the AR2 and AR3 files...

In the PEH403B_V08.05_1T.HAT file, you'll see the string "NX209" at addresses 2-5 (very beginning of the file).  If you look at any of the AR2's firmware upgrade files (8.17 and 8.30 are available online), you'll see the value "NX163" at the same addresses.  I went one step further to compare the EU and US firmwares, and can confirm that NX163 is uniform across the board with the AR2 firmwares.  So I'll draw a conclusion that this is somehow model-specific.  If the upgrade program checks the version, then it will probably also check the model-- if not for anything but the consumer's own protection.  So in other words, you'll need to spoof this as well.

So for your initial attempt, you'd be changing:

"NX209" to "NX163" at addresses 2-5

"08.05" to "08.30" at addresses 136-140

There's another difference in the "header" we can't ignore... it's the fact that the version number isn't in the same place (128-132 for AR2 vs 136-140 for AR3).  On a related note, you'll see additional information in the AR3 firmware at addresses 112-118 ("PEH403B") and 128-132 ("H403B"), which do not correspond to anything in AR2's firmware.  If you've really got the cajones to try this, I'd personally leave it as-is for your initial attempt.

If your modified file fails the initial validation, it will likely be due to the version number being offset by 8 addresses.  In that case, for your next attempt, you'll want to make the header of the file more like the AR2 firmware by "filling" in a few places.  So for a second attempt, you'd be changing:

"NX209" to "NX163" at addresses 2-5

"PEH403B" to seven spaces at addresses 112-118

"H403B" to "08.30" at addresses 128-132

On the LEFT (hexadecimal) side, enter all zero pairs into hex addresses 85-8F (decimal 133-144)

Officially, I do not recommend you do ANY of this.  I would personally only do this if I had a spare AR2 laying around that I'd risk becoming a paperweight.  But should you (or anyone else) feel the need to martyr your precious AR2, the rest of us are anxiously awaiting your results.

-FM

What about OEM cameras? I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue which came with its backup camera already installed. I'm wondering if it already connects via an RCA plug. I'm hoping the worst case scenario is that I'll have to sever the old plug, and replace it with an RCA plug for the Pioneer.

I need to revive an old thread here, because I just found yet another issue with the iPod connection.

• First, it was the speaker pin, as I described earlier in this thread. I fixed that.
  
• Then the stock CD-IU230V iPod cable started to go bad. I bought the AmazonBasics iPod composite cable, which has proven to be a suitable and well-built replacement for it.
  
• Now, the right channel (coincidentally) is cutting out once again. This time, it's the RCA harness (part CDP1091 on Pioneer's parts site). I discovered this after sliding out my head unit, and wiggling the harness wires in different directions. Apparently, this harness was not made to be bent near the plastic connector. Unfortunately, in most vehicles, this is an inevitability. I cannot find a way to orient the wires behind the unit, such that the intermittent cutting out does not occur. Perhaps I can construct some kind of stiff sleeve about an inch off the plastic connector?
  

Anyone have any ideas? I really don't want to rebuy the part for $42.25, since the same thing will likely happen again.

Incidentally, I do not use any of the other RCA connectors on that harness... but I'm sure if I fed the pre-amp outputs to an amp, I'd be having similar issues there as well.

A search for "palm pre" will reveal some info.

+1

I had this happen to me yesterday, and I was flipping out for the same reason.

If you hooked your iPod up to the computer just prior to this happening, you should reconnect it to the computer, and PROPERLY EJECT it. This fixed my problem.

Fixed the problem on mine today. Here are the details: http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=26621&p=182924#p182924

Ok, I determined what the problem is on my AVIC-F90BT, and fixed it as well. The RIGHT AUDIO IN pin/wire of the white MALE audio harness plug was not secure in the plug. In fact, the pin itself seemed to be damaged. It wouldn't "snap" into place like the other pins. I secured it as best I could with electrical tape, and things seem to be holding up well now.

I was able to tell this was this issue by jiggling the various parts of the connection. The RCA connectors themselves were all okay. But when I got to the harness connection, I realized something was wrong. I wasn't sure if it was the harness socket or the plug. But when I examined the plug, and saw that the aforementioned pin was easily removed from the plug, the problem was evident.

I don't believe this to be all that big of a coincidence. I'd suggest many of you with the same issue go ahead and trace the RIGHT AUDIO IN wire from the RCA jack to the harness plug, and see if the cause is the same.

I appreciate the suggestion. I just hate the thought of buying into the whole Apple proprietary thing for $50. So before I do that, I'm gonna play around with some of the typical diagnostic procedures that the others have done:

• 
  [*:3syf6l0p]Jiggle the RCA harness plug where it enters the AVIC, while using the iPod
  [*:3syf6l0p]Jiggle the RCA connection between the RCA-F and iPod RCA-M tips, while using the iPod
  [*:3syf6l0p]Try several other cables and devices to possibly narrow the source of the problem
  [*:3syf6l0p]Exercise my active warranty, and have Pioneer replace whatever seems to be the problem

I taped up my RCAs, which worked for about 3 weeks, and then the sound went out again in the right channels. I ended up exchanging my unit under warranty a few weeks ago, and haven't had the issue again (yet...). We'll see how it goes...

Thanks for reporting back. Sucks that Pioneer can't speculate (TO US) any better why this keeps happening. A problem this common can't possibly have 2 equally common sources.

First try the Apple Composite AV cable before resorting to surgery on your unit. Most people have had no problems with the Apple cable.

Respectfully, I intend to test the female RCA jacks with some other devices and male RCA cables before I operate on them. I have at least 5 other cables, and 4 or 5 other devices I can test. If they all exhibit the same result (bad right channel), then I will have to operate. Or I might just call Pioneer support to replace the bad A/V harness bundle. No need to drop $50 on the Apple cable.

BTW, anyone have any idea HOW the F-Series is able to display Video output from a recent iPod, without having an authentication chip? This is most perplexing.

You will probably have the same connection problems with the apple cable. I have the 120 gb ipod too and I went thru 3 different apple cables with the intermittent connection issues as well. Only the pioneer cable would have a 99% connection rate, but it did have the speaker channel problem, which is related to its crappy RCA connectors, so I hardwired them to the AVIC and I have never had a problem since.

Thanks for your reply. I think you may have posted this same solution in another thread that I read. I assume from your trials with other cables, that your problem lie in the FEMALE A/V INPUT RCA connectors, rather than in the Pioneer iPod cable. Do you think it would have been equally effective for you to replace the female A/V INPUT RCA connectors with better ones, as opposed to severing and splicing to those wires directly? Just curious, because if I have the same issue (which I probably do), I would prefer this route.

I just bought a 120GB iPod Classic (late 2008 "2G"). Hooked it up to my AVIC-F90BT, and I am now experiencing the same audio issues that I've seen many posts about, regarding the Pioneer cable. My right channel is dull, quiet, and I hear a bit of interference. I have played with the cable, swapped the channels, checked all connections, and the problem is most likely with the cable.

I saw, in a related post, that this cable (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.21221) seems to be a valid replacement, with a build-in mini-USB jack to complete the full connection needed. I go on Amazon to buy it, and I see in the reviews that many people with the same model iPod as me are having problems playing VIDEO because this cable lacks an authentication chip. I'm running the latest firmware on the iPod (2.2), and I don't know if I can downgrade to the Pioneer-supported 1.1.1 version (and I'm not even sure that would help). I know my iPod has the authentication mechanism built into it, and I'm also sure the Pioneer cable (and my F90BT) do NOT (only the X-series have it). Is there some magic going on with the F90BT, that's supposed to allow the VIDEO to work without the authentication chip? Or do I need to shell out $50 for a special cable from Apple? I've seen some stuff posted about this in the D-Series forums, but nothing in the F-Series forums. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks.

Yes, I have this problem too. The worst part is that even if I change the audio via the Pre (to use the Pre's earpiece instead of the Pioneer BT) before I turn off the car, the call is STILL disconnected once I turn the car off. The only way to prevent this is to tell the person on the phone to hang on while you run and place the phone out of BT range, and THEN turn the car off... so the car can't send the hang-up signal to the phone.

And now a question for YOU, since you have a Pre too: Were you able to directly transfer your contacts from your Pre to your Pioneer? I can initiate the transfer on the Pioneer, but the Pre doesn't seem to have a way to actively send the contacts. The Pioneer seems to just hang there, waiting for the Pre to do something.

Seriously, there are too many people with video lag issues for this thread to just DIE like this.

So what do we know so far: This is a EU-only update, and the version number is 3.002, which is technically prior to 3.0101, which is the latest.

Can we assume that 3.0101 includes the 3.002 stuff?

If so, can anyone with 3.0101 confirm that the video lag is gone?

I'm particularly interested because I'm running DiVX files off my USB drive.

Please share if you have info.

Thanks.

Thanks OP... what a time-saver!

I added additional functionality to select your Contacts folder (in case you have several as I do).

I also added a confirmation to ContactsToSQDB, asking if it should overwrite the contacts.sql file with a new one. If no, it will just skip the call to ContactsToSQL.

export-phonebook.cls.txt

Yes, you can hardware, and I mentioned you could do that.

 

The reason I made a big hole in my glove box was for USB cables and other cables to pass through easily.

Thank you, but please stop calling me "hardware".