FeloniusMonkey

I just bought my refurbished F90BT for about $490 shipped from the buy.com marketplace (link: http://www.buy.com/listing/sellerlistings.asp?sku=210800575&buy=1). The vendor is hifiaudioonline.

It actually shipped from Sound Of Tri-State, in Delaware, which is coincidentally only 15 minutes from me. Maybe give them a call if you're in the area, and save on shipping ($12).

wiretap,

This is a great tutorial. I was wondering if we could go one step further...

The lead on the power module is 4' long, and the fuse is built into the casing. Shouldn't we just be able to cut off the plug on the end, and attach the vampire clip to the bare wire ends, thus negating the need for the additional socket? It's pretty tight under my center console/emer brake cover, and I don't know if I can squeeze the plug and socket. It would also allow me to drill a smaller hole in my glove box, since I wouldn't need to pass a 1" wide DC plug through it.

EDIT: Found a detailed PDF regarding this: http://www.magnadyne.com/MagPublic/Pictures/DVU-2-INS.pdf Says if you want to hardwire, you need to attach the power lead to a fused 20A source, and the black lead to the chassis ground. Would the vampire tap method you illustrated achieve this? The unit body does have a fuse in it, but maybe I'm missing something. BTW, is the ground wire of the "tappee" power line attached to the vehicle chassis, or to the battery (-) terminal (or is it the exact same thing)?

Thanks.