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redbone1

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About redbone1

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  1. Got mine today. Installed in less than 10 minutes! All worked perfectly.
  2. I have a 2 wire bypassed Z1 that has never been updated or had a map upgrade. I'm willing to spend the $$$ for a Z3 upgrade disk. Is it possible to upgrade the bypassed Z1 to a Z3 without doing the disc image stuff and maintaining the bypass? My apologies if this has already been covered - I just can't seem to find the details using the search engine, so if someone can post a link to my answer I would be very grateful. Thanks.
  3. So if I decided to upgrade my Z1 with a Z2 upgrade CD, all I would need to do is cut the first mod wire, and leave the parking brake bypass wire connected to ground. And then when I wanted to program a Nav setting, would need to slow down to <5MPH? Is that correct?
  4. Not a good place. Any metal between an antenna and the sky will shield it from radio signals and render it ineffective. Your nav system antenna could be mounted under your dash as long as you put it right up next to the roof of your dash and ensure it has a non--metallic unabstructed view of the sky (i.e. mount as far forward towards you windshield as possible and ensure no metal is covering it. Also, you will add some gain to your antenna by mounting it on a metallic surface that's grounded (such as the top of your Z1 unit as long as there is no metal between the top of your anten
  5. DB, mine is a December 2006 and has a terrible echo. Are you sure it's already on 12/2006? Maybe it's just a matter of turning down the volume?
  6. I struggled with the same question/issue. I ended up mounting the GPS antenna on top of dash, as far forward towards the windshield as possible. The dash has vent slots in it which gave me a natural access to inside dash where Z1 unit is. Placed metal plate under dash and under GPS antenna as ground plane for antenna. 1 to 2 bars signal strength - all Sats. You probably don't need the ground plane anyway, and it's separated by the thickness of the dash wall so probably doesn't even help so I wouldn't worry about it. XM antenna was rounted to outside, just above windshield on roof o
  7. Has anyone seen a schematic/service manual? Might offer some clues. If the map updates for the Z1 updates the Z1 to a Z2 and the bypass stops working (which I thought I had read on here that someone did that to their Z1 and the bypass became non-functional??), then perhaps those 4 empty pins on the right hand side of the connector are the output of a flash PROM (or something similar), which means that it's a matter of finding the right combination of digital word by grounding a combination of those 4 pins - if this continues to be a firmware/software defeat to accomplish the by-pass.
  8. Tx RP*. I realliy appreciate the explanation. Put a TYTO-01 in. Works great. Excellent sound! I had thought the connectors would not work last week and returned the TYTO-01, but I think I was looking at it wrong. XM sound not working but I think I got the cable plugged into the wrong connector on the XM module. Just need to program the SWI-PS. Tonight hopefully.
  9. The 70-8113 interfaced to the factory plug just fine. I tried the Blue/White remote wire to the Amp Turn on Blue/Wire and it apparantly does not turn on the AMP since I have absolutely no sound. Nav system works great (and man is this a nice unit!). Some questions: I hear folks say they by-passed the amp. Can someone describe that process? I'm assuming you remove the center console (how?) and gain access to the amp. Do you then just jumper the speaker wires from the input to the output?
  10. I think I found what the problem is. If I unhook both connectors traveling to the rear of the SUV, the back up lights still light up in REVERSE. So, the reverse wiring is not the same as the 2006 Sequoia. My understanding is if I'm not installing a backup camera, I don't need it anyway (?). When I get the 70-8113 harness, I'll post and let everyone know if it worked.
  11. I'm a little embarrased that I'm having so much trouble with something this simple!!!! I ohmed out the + side of the rear backup lights and traced it to the Red/Blue (or RED/Purple, can't tell) wire. It's the correct wire. I believe it is Red/Black going into the connector interface and then Red/Blue coming out. Anyway, I read 0V in Park and 0V in Reverse, even though the light comes on when I place it in reverse. Perhaps that is because the light is a virtual ground with elements (although I would think it would have a little resistance). Anyway, if the Z1 is looking for a 0 to
  12. 1. If it has an AMP, shouldn't there be a turn-on wire? 2. Also, I had gotten from this forum that the Reverse wire (I'm assuming the wire going to the reverse lights to the rear) was Red/Black + driver kick, in harness going to the rear. I found behind the driver kick two harnesses running in the tray under the plastic door threshold. There was not a Red/Black in either one of those wiring bundles. I took off the reverse lighting assembly in the back, and the wire to the light is red/blue (or red/purple, not sure). I found that same wire in one of the bundles traveling to the
  13. Misfit, do you mean by 'N/A' after the Factory Amp Turn-on as being Not Available or something else? Thanks!
  14. Yes it says JBL. Called the installer at our local Circuit City. He stated he used the 70-8113 in his last 2007 Sequoia install with JBL and it worked with the amp. I don't know. I ordered one anyway. If it doesn't work, may have to get the TOYO-1 again (I returned it) and hard wire. At this point, my install is being divided up into many little pieces with the final piece being the final connection to the amp with whatever works. Where do you pick up the steering wheel controls for the SW1?
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