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About Hairfullofmetal

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  1. iTouch Cataloging...

    Okay...Well, I guess I will crawl back under my rock again...I tried doing a soft reset on the iTouch and BINGO!!....All is right in the world again!! All of the album art aligned with the proper album and the previously missing artwork magically appeared on the Z120 now.... P.S. I guess I should have mentioned that I was having issues with the iTouch freezing iTunes when connecting via the USB cable on my PC. Seems as though the iTouch was just having some constipation.. Sorry for the false alarm.. Peace ~ HFoM
  2. iTouch Cataloging...

    Hey Guys...Haven't been on here in a while since things have been smooth...Still enjoying the Z120, but had a question to see if anyone else has experienced any of these issues.. 1) Recent downloads to iTouch not registering album art on the 120...I even removed and redownloaded the artwork in iTunes to get it to register to the unit, but they just come up as numbered tracks...The other albums still have their artwork showing...HOWEVER!! 2) Tapped on my "Alter Bridge" album today and the artwork is for a totally different album...Alter Bridge is playing, but the album art for "Fates Warning" is showing...WEIIIIRDD!! I should add that when you view the iTouch just by itself, all artwork and correct relationships are there...So not sure where the problem may be... Is there a way to wipe the cache/catalog and have it completely update it again without hard resetting the entire 120 unit, or should I assume it is an iTouch issue and do a hard reset on it and resync with iTunes...I really don't want to return to factory settings on the Z120 after so much time tweaking it...Ugh!! Any help is much appreciated...Thanks!! Peace ~ HairfullofMetal
  3. Does the z110-z120 upgrade fix contacts sort order with iOS4

    The quoted point is moot now since the 2.003 upgrade recently came out, but this topic wasn't necessarly ONLY about sorting but It had to do with Voice Recognition as well. One immediately affected the other. In fact, prior to the upgrade, I could have my contacts on my phone displayed both ways based on how the Outlook V-Card information was saved, and for some people this may have been very practical...Who knows...I am not them. I just prefer to read my contacts with people's First name first. Where the problem really was is that the AVIC was requiring us to Voice Dial using the person's last name first...Kinda weird...When I am in my truck, hit the VR command button and then have to say..."Call Smith John" instead of naturally saying..."Call John Smith" it definitely left a lot of us wanting this to be fixed. I don't walk into the music store, and even after going through the Last Name, First Name catalog..I don't walk up to the clerk and say..."Yes...Can you help me find the Shakur Tupac album..It says you have one in stock.." Sorting..Who cares, but if the AVIC sorting limitations caused me to have to speak almost ass backwards..then I want it fixed...We live in a world where VR will become more common..and when the day comes that I can order my food via a computer that I can talk to...I don't want to have to say...."Order Soup Tomato"...I wanna say it how I have ordered it for years..."I would like to ".... Hope this clears up what this thread was really about... Peace ~ HFoM
  4. Alpine PDX-5...Couple Questions

    Well, I figured I would follow this up and let people know what I found out, and what I decided to do...Only doing this in case someone else stumbles across this post and has similar questions... 1) It turns out that the Alpine PDX-5 runs the mono sub channel at the same RMS @ either 2 or 4 Ohms...No need to worry about bridging a channel to get 4 ohm impedence @ 300 watts x 1...Thats the good news for people who have a sub or subs with either impedence.. 2) I opted to just go for 4 gauge wiring and eliminate any guess work or chances of something going wrong. Not really sure why I questioned what the manufacturer recommended anyway. 3) Screw the idea of worrying about running a 35w rated speaker on a 75w RMS channel...I ended up buying components for the rear doors. All in all, I have my work cut out for me this weekend...but if anyone is interested...It's a moderate sound system for a truck. Not looking to build a competition system, I just wanted a decent rig setup...Here's the system breakdown with linked text: Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT Pioneer XM Module Alpine PDX-5 Multichannel Amp JL Audio 12W3V3-4 Sub (QLogic Wedge Enclosure) Alpine SPR-17S Components (Front) Alpine SPR-13S Components (Rear) Peace ~ HFoM
  5. Alpine PDX-5...Couple Questions

    Well, I guess the first question is....Has anyone on this board installed or know much about this amp? Right off the top, I have been finding some conflicting information both on other forums as well as via Alpine's website and Crutchfield.. 1) It states the amp is 75 x 4 @ 4 Ohms, and 300 x 1 @ 2 Ohms....but the mono channel is stable @ 300 x 1 @ 4 Ohms in "bridged mode"... <--- This is the manufacturer site.. On other forums I have read where the amp pushes the same 300 x 1 @ both 2 Ohms & 4 Ohms (Not Bridged)...Also, the product manual kind of states this as well, but its not very clear. To me that says that I am fine running my JL Audio 12W3V3-4 on this amp...I just was wondering if anyone knows this to be true...You can read this for yourself...Page (1) http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/ ... 5%20OM.PDF 2) As well, it states that 4 gauge wire is "recommended" for this install. I already have cables run in my truck that are 8 gauge and at the risk of cutting some corners, would I be fine with the 8 gauge wire, or should I really run all new 4 gauge wire? The amp will be installed under the front passenger seat so the distance to the battery would probably be no more than 10 feet I am guessing.... 3) Finally...I understand the basic premise of RMS --> RMS power associations, but I currently have Infinity Reference 4002i speakers in the rear doors. They are rated @ 35W RMS @ 4 Ohms....Would I be safe still running these on one of the 75W RMS Channels coming off the amp? I know you should neither underpower or overpower a speaker...but again...Just trying to save a few bucks here considering the amp is $600 from an "authorized" dealer... Any comments would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.. Peace ~ HFoM
  6. Off-AVIC-Topic..Question of Opinion..

    Werty...Thanks for the feedback The sub came in and despite my worries, the amp is not causing any distorting...I realize that 200W is not the optimal power for that sub, but considering the type of music I listen to, I am not finding that I have "too little" bass overall. In fact, I almost feel like I have "too much": will explain later. I could immediately tell a huge difference in the performance and capability of this sub, so I am quite pleasantly pleased with the results so far. In fact, I need to really dial it in. I am not a car-audio "know-it-all" so I need to find someone to help me to get things right...(Gain, Amp EQ, etc,)...I mean, I can get it sounding like I want it to, but there is always a "right-way" to do things...I played with some of the HU settings and got the sub sounding better than at first. One thing I did notice is that this sub is clearly shedding light on the quality or lack thereof of the sound of my door speakers. This is what I mean when I say I almost have "Too Much" bass. I have Infinity References (6.25 Front, 4.5 Rear), and they aren't powered by anything other than the amp in the AVIC (14Watts x 4)...However, the sub is kind of showing them up if you know what I mean. At this point, I am almost inclined to plan for a multi-channel amp down the road. Possibly a door speaker upgrade as well. I was doing some more reading, and I actually took an interest in the Alpine PDX-5. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-k4VcStPPX7 ... PDX-5.html I am going to take the weekend and really play around with trying to get the sub sounding a little more dialed in, and then go from there. I am a glutton!! Everytime I get involved in upgrading something, I start thinking small, and end up spending the farm!! LOL!! Thanks for the response!! Peace ~ HFoM
  7. HTC Fuze

    Not sure why it wouldn't....I have the HTC TP2 running WinMo 6.5 and it connected without an issue. Assuming you have done everything correctly, did you double check the following: 1) Bluetooth is turned on and your phone is discoverable 2) Your following the proper pairing instructions 3) You entered the right password for the AVIC (1111 not 0000) Bluetooth is a pretty common standard in today's day and age, and given the Z120BT & Z110BT are basically the same unit despite a software upgrade for the interface...I would just go back and slowly follow the pairing instructions again to make sure you've done everything right...Basically the AVIC is acting like one big fat headset, so it really should pair with most any phone.. Peace ~ HFoM
  8. Off-AVIC-Topic..Question of Opinion..

    **UPDATE** Well, in the interim while I eventually get some responses on this post, I decided to do this...I went ahead and purchased the Sub. The way I see it, I am probably not going to notice any significant sound degredation due to lack of power overall. However, I am expecting to see some improvement or difference in response and clarity over the older Xplod sub. Being that I really don't "Blast" my music at a volume that constitutes trunk rattling and rearview mirror skewing, I will be more or less looking for a much richer/tighter response overall, and not how hard/loud I can push the Sub. As a backup, if I find that the current Alpine amplifier is creating issues with the Sub in terms of overall performance, I am gonna pickup the Alpine MRP-M500 which is rated @ 300 Watts RMS for a single channel 4 Ohm subwoofer connection. It runs for $199.00 at Crutchfiled, and is essentially the replacement for the MRP-M350 that I currently own. I guess I will just do process of ($) elimination here if the Sub doesn't reach it's potential for my application ...Thanks for any follow up thoughts!! Amp Link: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM500 ... tml?tp=115 Peace ~ HFoM
  9. Off-AVIC-Topic..Question of Opinion..

    Hey AVIC'rs!! Soooo, since you guys are technology nerds like myself, I had a question regarding thoughts on a Subwoofer upgrade for my truck..Here goes breath> I am currently running an older Alpine mono sub amplifier (MRP-M350) in my truck that powers a single 12" Sony Xplod Sub (Older "Red" Model) in a hatchback style Q-Logic Box (Small/Medium)..Current sub is rated @ 330W Max RMS..Even though it shows the big fat 1200W on the face..Nice Marketing Ploy!! The Amplifier pushes out 200 Watts RMS Max on a single channel 4 Ohm connection...NOW!! If I run dual-subs in line @ 2 ohms, it pushes 350 Watts RMS... <--This is just for informational purposes..Link!! http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM350 ... i=0&tp=115 SOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooo...I was thinking of upgrading my current Sub with the JL Audio 12W3V3-4 http://www.crutchfield.com/s_13612W3V34 ... ofer&ssi=0 This sub is rated @ 500 Watts Max RMS (Single Coil 4 ohm)...but has a min/max range from 100W-500W....So the question posed is this.. I really don't want to replace the amplifier itself for two main reasons...A) I don't want to go to the trouble or a secondary installation, as well as spend MORE money. Secondly, I am not a big advertiser when it comes to the sound in my truck. I like it loud and emotional, but I don't need doors to rattle or sound like a "Rave" coming from a mile away. I listen to mostly "Heavy Metal" 80's to Current..so it is not known for being the most notoriously bass heavy music around...Newer metal today is more bass heavy, and production quality has changed..so yeah!! I like the bass to sound rounded and thick!! Just not "Sub, sub, sub...Hip Hop/Rap-ish" So given the information I have provided...BEFORE I invest...Do you guys think that I will sorely be underpowering this subwoofer with the Amplifier I currently have? I clearly understand that if I want to get the most out of it, you should push the sub with ample power to avoid distortion...But given JL's website information that 300 Watts RMS is "Optimal" for this sub....It kind of puts me at the low end spectrum of "Optimal", but on the higher end of "Satisfactory"...I just don't want to invest the $250 on the sub if it's just gonna sound like shit with the Amp I have....Any thoughts or suggestions here? Thanks.. Peace ~ HFoM
  10. Sirius with the 120bt

    The "Channel Art" is something that is resident to the tuner module memory itself. I have the Pioneer XM module and it displays the channel art on my Z120BT just fine. I can use the "Price is Right Wheel" menu grid on the right hand side like Album Art for the iTouch. I do not know about the Sirius module personally, but unless the Channel Art is previously stored on the modules memory, it will not display. I had that question going in, but later read in the details for the Pioneer XM Module where the Channel Art data came from, and that Pioneer disclaimed that they could control the Art aftewards if newer channels were added or if the station changed their art. You get what you get based on the programming of the Tuner Module at the time...
  11. Does the z110-z120 upgrade fix contacts sort order with iOS4

    Okay...well, I didn't call them directly and I am not sure by the response from Customer Service if I actually received a Case#....But here was my original email: "I recently purchased and installed the AVIC-Z120BT and thus far have no real complaints, however I did notice that despite sorting the contacts on my phone and in Outlook (First Name, Last Name), the Z120BT insists on sorting them (Last Name, First Name). This is major issue with regard to VR Calling and having to adapt to alternate sorting. When I want to call my friend (John Smith), I have to speak to the head unit in reverse (Call Smith John). I reallly would like to know if Pioneer has any plans to update and fix this option on the head unit. I am a member of the AVIC411 forums, and I can tell you that there are scores of people who would also like to see this fixed as well. Any input from Pioneer would be greatly appreciated!! Regards...." The Response (Not sure if this is "canned" or not): RE:Feature and Specification|B00002|7039569115 [#1312277] "Thank you for contacting Pioneer Electronics, Inc. Sorry to hear you are having a problem. This is something our engineers are investigating. At this time, there is not an update to address the problem. Thank You, Rocky Customer Service Representative" So I leave it to you to judge....Will we see a correction for this problem eventually?? Peace ~ HFoM
  12. Does the z110-z120 upgrade fix contacts sort order with iOS4

    It's with other phones too...As I mentioned above, I have the HTC Touch Pro 2...same problem as you. I'll back you up by getting a case number as well... Peace ~ HFoM
  13. VSS Status Question

    The readings you are seeing are normal and in the range of the pulse output information from your vehicle. The speed sensor feedback is a pulse, not a exact replication of your actual mph. This pulse is sending a signal back to your speedometer and to your ABS controls let it know what the rotation speed of your tires are so they translate correctly. I have my VSS wire connected and what you are seeing is exactly correct and the same readings I get...Your fine.. P.S. I read somewhere on the forums where someone heard that the Speed Pulse (VSS Signal) should read twice as high as the actual speed of the vehicle. This is not correct....You should be seeing SP numbers in the range of 0-20 as your speed increases or decreases. Hope I help put your mind at ease!! Have a Happy 4th!! Peace ~ HFoM
  14. I would love to offer you an answer, but I can only make educated guesses here. I couldn't tell by the last sentence of your first post exactly what the outcome of the system reset did for you..."It sent bring the speakers back up"...I kinda got lost there. Are they working again or not? Being that these head units split the delivery of sound into "channels", it sounds to me like you have a hardware problem and that the built in amplifier on the head unit has gone faulty. Either that, or you have a bad connection somewhere in your wiring configuration (grounding, short circuiting, etc). I don't know how you have it hooked up, and what wires connected where, but if the sound dropped out completely, those are the only two things I can think of. I seriously doubt it is related to you playing around with the controls/settings of the head unit at all. I know that this doesn't offer you a happy faced "Here is your problem, and here's what you need to do" response, but at least it is a response and gives you some things to consider. Try and look into at least the wiring of the speakers to the harness because this is the one thing I think you have the best option of correcting yourself. Beyond that, you're probably looking at sending the unit in for repair or taking it somewhere to have it looked at...Hope you get your problem resolved, cuz I know I would be frustrated too!! Peace ~ HFoM
  15. VSS Wire Installation

    Wow..Kinda shocked with this statement! In my opinion, I would expect that a professional's response would be the exact opposite. Glad I did my own install, wired it properly, and saved the money of being shortchanged by an installer who makes an opinionated call on my behalf. All the while robbing me of the full potential of the unit. It's this kind of statement that gives honest installers a bad name, and makes people leery of businesses like that. People pay good money to have things done right and thoroughly. Clearly Pioneer made it so that wire requirement is there for a reason and relative to their equipment. It is the responsibility of the installer to be knowledgeable of the brand names he/she is working with, and what is required to hook them up properly. I agree with the previous post and say that all wires should be connected properly period!! No ifs, ands, or buts.... Second part of this is that consumers should be knowledgeable of the requirements as well. Don't let your lack of understanding allow others to take advantage of it. I know it's tough to learn every little thing about the things you buy, and that's why we depend on business/service proprietor's to have our best interest in mind when advising us on the products we invest in. At least I would expect them to fully explain the requirement of the wire and allow the consumer to make the judgement call to connect it or not. I can't see why someone would opt to NOT hook it up unless the installer was going to charge them some high priced extra cost. All in all, hooking that wire up should be part of the process anyway...Bottom line..Hook it up!! Peace ~HFoM