tech10002

Wow, 40 MPH must have been a huge hit from the back. My wife just got hit a few weeks ago and totalled my old Civic. The wife got pretty banged up, but the Z2 survived unhurt. Go figure. She got knocked off the road and lauched across the median, landing on the other side of the road in excess of 55 MPH. I bet your Z2 is okay too. It probably damaged some circuity in the rear of the car and blew a fuse like the others said. It's very unlikely it would damage it enough where it wouldn't even light up the buttons.

There's nothing scratched up. It's just fingerprints showing up from the flash. I'm not even going to waste my time commenting on using the Z1 amp over a pioneer one with 4 times the power. This is my last post on this matter. I just wanted to share my install with the group, and I get to hear all these negative remarks from self righteous jackasses. To any moderator, please delete this thread. I am done.

It just amazes me how strong of a reaction I've gotten from Acura buffs. You'd think I desecrated a sacred goat or something. LOL You never see anyone getting chastised for putting a Z1 in a Ford. Yes, the factory nav is awsome, but this car was about 5k less than the ones with nav I looked at, and I already a lot of the components, so it was a no brainer.

Well, if you have to ask that, why are you here in the first place? This is a Z1 enthusiasts' forum. But since you ask, hmm, let's see... Ability to watch video while moving without doing some hack using an external DVD player and harness, hard drive music library, Ipod without having to use an external controller mounted in a storage bin and yet another expensive FM modulated harness, to save about 2 grand off a navi equipped TL, and finally because I LIKE the Avic-Z1. As for the speakers, WTF good does MDF do? The speakers are a perfect fit for the factory brackets and are se

Yep, but when you pull out the factory audio, you kill that feature, so I had to use the Z1.

In a F250, it's absolutely something you can do even if you've never installed a car stereo. There is a bolt in dash kit available that makes the install about a 2 hour project if you don't have amps or other accessories. I used a Scosche FD1426B kit in my cousin's 05 F250, and I believe there is a Metra equal to it. Taking the dash apart is easy in your truck. The dash trim from the instrument panel all the way to the radio just snaps off. You just have to pull it straight back, unplug the wire harnesses, and wiggle it around until it clears the steering wheel and gear selector. If you

The bottom display under the HVAC display was for the radio. It's just blank now, but it doesn't hurt anything. The HVAC controls were all on the panel above the radio. That's about the only break we got with this car. It was about the most difficult install I've ever done. All the other car functions still work with the exception of the factory bluetooth since it used the factory amp, but the Z1 bluetooth replaces that function, so it doesn't make any difference anyway.

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We just got finished putting a Z1 in a new Acura TL. This was a really fun one since I had to custom fab the brackets and trim rings for the radio. Considering what we had, I think it turned out pretty decent. The install consists of a Dec 06 Avic-Z1, ND-BT1, GEX-P10XMT, CD-R5, CD-SR1, CD-iB100ii, 2 Kicker 10" Comp VR subs, JL Audio 6.5 separates in the doors and JL Audio coax 6.5 in the deck, Pioneer GM-5200T bass amp bridged at 380 watts RMS, Pioneer GM-6200F mid-high amp at 60 watts RMS x 4, Pac SWI-X steering wheel control, Scosche.5 Farad cap, Scosche power wire/distro blocks, and

Without a backup from a previously unlocked drive, I think you're out of luck. Did you get the unit from an authorized retailer so you can send it to Pioneer under warranty? The only way I can think you might be able to fix it yourself is if someone has a backup image of a new replacement hard drive from Pioneer that hasn't been locked to a Z1 yet. I believe the replacement drives are unlocked and will just marry the first Z1 they're installed in, so a virgin image might fix yours if you can find it. I have actually been wondering what Pioneer wants for a replacement drive. If it'

This is more of a general question about Bluetooth, but it applies to the Z1 too. Can anyone else hear static either using the Z1 Bluetooth or Bluetooth headsets in general? I just got my first Bluetooth phone (Samsung A940) and tried pairing it with a friend's new Z1. There's static in the background on calls, and it does the same thing with my Jabra headset. His Samsung A920 has the exact same static. It's not terrible, just a bit annoying. Is this normal with Bluetooth?

The procedure is detailed in the service manual. There is no danger of setting the airbags off simply by clearing the codes through the diagnostic port. I know what I'm doing a lot more than the idiots in the dealers that mess with them all the time. LOL If you've ever had warranty service done at a dealer, you'll know exactly what I mean.

It is possible to clear the airbag codes in many cars without the factory diagnostic computer. In Hondas and Acuras, for example, there is a factory shorting connector that you hook up to the airbag controller diagnostic port and short the pins in a certain sequence while turning the ignition on and off. If you get it right, you can clear the codes yourself. All the connector does is short two pins, so you can do the same thing with a jumper lead.

FYI, Acura changed the color of the wire to solid blue with little horizontal silver stripes for the Vss, and the reverse wire was solid green with little horizontal silver stripes. My service manual finally came in. Thanks for the help cntry.