mlammert

Service Provider: T-Mobile Phone: Motorola v600/i (I know it's old) SW Version: n/a Auto-Connect: Yes (played with this for about 30 min before I figured it out wish I could remember the exact steps I used) Basic Function: Call from D3, Answer from D3 Phone Book Transfer: Yes (One at a time - anybody know how to do whole book???) Voice Calling: Yes Call History Log: Yes Signal & Battery Strength Indicator: Yes/No BT Audio Capable: No

Agreed... I have turned this feature on as well and like it even BETTER now... I cannot express how much this unit has surpassed my expectations for the feature-to-value ratio... Mark

I just installed mine and was having the same issue... I turned off demo mode in the menu system and it still showed the "demo question" screen... I don't know what I did but it all of a sudden quit showing the message... Anybody have a better answer as to the logic of why it shows or does not show this screen??? Mark

As far as city to city search, I am in the same situation... I am going to try doing a freeway/highway intersection search, which I am pretty sure you can do with the D3... Good luck, Mark

I just installed a D3 into my Lincoln Aviator (Ford)... I used the PAC SWI-PS... Very straightforward as far as install... If you are not used to programming these thing, it was a bit confusing at first... I read the instructions about four times and finally "got it"... Also, you have to watch a LED blink as you program it... I was looking at the PAC SWI-PS box at an angle and thought it was not working because I could not see the LED blink... But, the LED is actually down "in" the box... So, be sure you are looking straight at the LED hole or you will not see it... At leas

I just got mine installed over the weekend and drove around for about 4 hours with it... My routing was really good... I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly and accurately it re-routes if you make a wrong turn... I took some routes from my home where I could take about three VERY different ways home(interstate, highway and back roads)... It first took me the interstate... I went the highway... It re-routed in about 5 seconds... I then got off the highway and took some back roads... Again, it re-routed in about 5 seconds and was spot on... In one instance I was taking a

Awesome... Thanks for the tip!!!

Right now everything is connected with "butt" connectors and then heat shrink tubing over the connectors and about an inch of wire on either side... I am just going to leave sleeping dogs lay so-to-speak... If I ever need to redo something or change something around, I will definitely take the time and solder all the connections... Thanks for the advice, Mark

Thanks guys!!! Yeah, I will post picts soon... All in all, it took about 10 hours start to finish... I have not installed an after-market radio in about 6 years... And, those were all just single-din radio swaps... I have never done anything quite as complex as this before... I know... Well, I should say, now I know... I have never soldered any radio I have ever put in... Personally, I don't even know how to solder except for when it comes to copper water pipe... I am using a T-Mobile Motorola v600/i... Thanks, Mark

That makes perfect sense... Thanks again for the detailed and informative response... I will do that test when I get home from work... I know the car has a bunch of stuff always on (factory security system and it has dash lights that are always on - weird but true)... So, if you have something drawing current from the battery, will the battery still read 12 volts if you test the battery??? I would assume it would drop below 12 volts... Again thank you very much for the knowledge, Mark

Thanks cntrylvr79... I appreciate the detailed and quick response... I agree with you that it was probably the constant use of ACCYS and all that stuff all day long... However, what would be the best/recommended way for me to "test" to be sure something isn't draining the battery??? Just for peace of mind... Thanks again, Mark

Hi all, I had some issues with the D3 when I first installed it (loose constant wire connection)... After I got everything fixed, I discovered the battery was dead... After jumping the car, everything seemed fine as far as I could tell... I have "tested" the car battery by using a voltmeter between the positive and negative battery terminals... Typical readings after installing the D3 is around 12.3 to 12.5... The car sat overnight and I tested it this morning and it was 12.37... Question: 1) Is this the proper way to test and see if something is draining my batter

I have posted this to another thread, but I will post it hear as well... This is a PDF with US phone compatibility and PAIRING and TRANSFER instructions for the D3 and various phones... I found this deep within the bowels of the Pioneer web site... Good luck, Mark Bluetooth Compatibility Guide.pdf

This should be the link you need... http://www.pac-audio.com/app_guide/appguide.htm Good luck, Mark

Hi all, I successfully installed in my 03 Lincoln Aviator: D3 - Bypassed and Still Have Mute Function 12-Disk Changer Reverse Camera Bluetooth Steering Wheel Control Adapter iPod Connector Voltage Regulator for Factory Subwoofer D3 Pretty straightforward as far as harnesses and dash kit from Crutchfield... When people tell you Aviators have alot of room in their dash... They don't... The cool thing about the Aviator is there is about 2-3 inches of dead space above the driver-side instrument cluster and the passenger-side airbag... I took the sticky magnet plate that comes

Last night I went to a local electronic shop and bought a harness that looked very similar to the D3's... It was only $0.50 so I figured what the heck... I took one of the pins out of the new harness and slid it into the original position of the MUTE wire on the D3 harness... It is not a PERFECT fit, but it is in there and solid and the D3 harness successfully can be plugged into the D3, so I think it is good... We'll see when I install everything this weekend... Mark

What is the best possible way to bypass the D3 and still be able to mute the unit from a third-party device??? I have a Lincoln Aviator and I want to hook the real mute wire to my backup sensor so that when I am close to backing into something it mutes the radio and beeps... But, I still want to move the mute wire so that I can perform the bypass... Any suggestions on how to accomplish both??? Thanks, Mark

I don't know about your particular situation, but way back when I was in college I had an RCA cable just barely touching the metal of my trunk floor... Caused horrible whine and buzzing... From that point on I be sure and tape up all RCA cables... Even when I have RCA cables plugged into other RCA cables, I be sure and wrap some electrical tape around the thin strip of metal that is exposed... Good luck, Mark

Thanks brianas, Yeah, I am laying out all the wiring on my kitchen table and making all the capable connection there... I originally used crimp connectors for everything... I am going to redo it and solder everything... Rather redo it on my kitchen table than a couple months down the road and have to yank everything... Or, try and trouble shoot from my dashboard... Sounds like I should be fine running everything through the radio harness... Thanks again for the info, Mark

I have installed about 4-5 after market radios, but all of them were just straight radio replacements... Harness to harness and it was done... My new D3 is the fist where I have multiple components: Bluetooth, Camera, Steering Wheel Interface, CD-Changer, etc... Question: 1) What is the best way to ground all this, bundle all together and solder and attach to ground in harness??? Or, is there a better practice??? 2) For all the component's power requirements (CD-Changer, Camera, Bluetooth, Steering Wheel Interface), is it okay to tap off of the harness's power??? Or, should I r

Yeah, I ordered the 3-year warranty... I figure for less than 10% of the unit cost, the 3-year warranty was worth it... I passed on the 5-year because I felt by 4 or 5 years technology will be so radically different that I would probably just want a newer and cheaper unit altogether... Good luck, Mark

Question sort of along the same lines: Why do the Pioneer CD-Changers not have in/out IP-Bus ports like most of their other peripherals??? Seems the CD-Changers must be the last device... Any reasoning besides that just being the way it is??? Thanks, Mark

I originally looked into using the Pioneer XDV-P6 with my D3 as well... From my understanding you can use the XDV-P6 in STANDALONE mode only with the D3... Meaning, you will not have menu control of the XDV-P6 via the D3... My understanding is that the XDV-P6 makes use of and requires the AV-BUS and IP-BUS... The D3 does not have the AV-BUS... I agree with everyone else in this thread, you would be much better off connecting an external standalone DVD player to the D3 and just using the D3's internal drive for NAV functions... Good luck, Mark

Hi all, I posted this under the GENERAL area and have had no luck... Thought it might get some more attention under the HACKS/MODS area... Is it possible to copy the default background images off of the D3 NAV DVD??? If so, anybody know where they are located at on the NAV DVD and what the file names are??? I would like to do so and edit them in Photoshop and use them as custom backgrounds of my own... Thanks, Mark

Don't know if this helps at all, I found this after MUCH digging on Pioneer's web site... Good luck, Mark Bluetooth Compatibility Guide.pdf