Intructions on TR7 to bypass Z1 Security + Autolights fix

[BANDER148]

[quote name="GUEST"]I HAVE PROGRAMED UP A TR7 TO DO AS YOU SAY. I HAVE ALSO METERED THE TR7 TO MAKE SURE IT IS PULSING +12V AT 3-4 SEC. BUT THE LOCK OUT IS NOT WORKING
ANY MORE INFO WOULD BE GREAT
THANK
BRETT![/quote]

IT SAYS TO HOOK IT UP TO THE DIMMER WIRE. THERE IS ONLY AN ILLM. WIRE. I ASSUME THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. STILL NOT WORKING!!??

[edrock200]

[quote name="BANDER148"] [quote name="GUEST"]I HAVE PROGRAMED UP A TR7 TO DO AS YOU SAY. I HAVE ALSO METERED THE TR7 TO MAKE SURE IT IS PULSING +12V AT 3-4 SEC. BUT THE LOCK OUT IS NOT WORKING
ANY MORE INFO WOULD BE GREAT
THANK
BRETT![/quote]

IT SAYS TO HOOK IT UP TO THE DIMMER WIRE. THERE IS ONLY AN ILLM. WIRE. I ASSUME THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. STILL NOT WORKING!!??[/quote]

Yes, illumination wire. Are you metering out in the car? What is your red wire attached to?

[Guest Corey497]

OK, edrock 200, heres one for you, i always remote start my truck, when i do, the lights stay on, the radio is off, now when i turn the ignition on the radio comes on BUT the lights will already be on SO i figure my options are:

1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??

2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..

Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?

[edrock200]

[quote name="Corey497"]OK, edrock 200, heres one for you, i always remote start my truck, when i do, the lights stay on, the radio is off, now when i turn the ignition on the radio comes on BUT the lights will already be on SO i figure my options are:

1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??

2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..

Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?[/quote]

This is why I suggest powering the pac with the amp turn on wire for the pulse. However most cars shut off the switched positive when cranking the engine, so hooking up to this will also work. I also remote start my car, so I know what you mean:

1. Double tap remote start on remote
2. Lights and accessories come on about 3 seconds before engine crank
3. Engine cranks

At step two, most vehicles shut down the switched positive, so your stereo should reset at crank. If so, attach the pulse tr7 to switched positive and time for 5-6 seconds, if not attach the tr7 to amp turn on wire and time for 3-4 seconds. Does that make sense?

As for the parking brake wire, mine is hooked up correctly, but I never use my parking brake, so it's really not an issue for me. However, if you plan on using it leave the pbrake wire disconnected. From my understanding this will not cause any errors and you can use your pbrake freely with no lockout issues on the Z1 since it will never know the state of the pbrake (setting and unsetting the pbrake will re-enable security lockouts on the unit if your pbrake wire is attached properly.)

[ducatiboy]

[quote name="Corey497"]OK, edrock 200, heres one for you, i always remote start my truck, when i do, the lights stay on, the radio is off, now when i turn the ignition on the radio comes on BUT the lights will already be on SO i figure my options are:

1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??

2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..

Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?[/quote]


I was thinking of this situation and for a minute I thought I was going to have to modify my circuit to take this kind of thing into account, but I don't think I have to.

No matter what happens when you auto start your car, when power is applied to the switched 12 volts for the radio, the Z1 will boot up. If power goes away when cranking over the engine and the Z1 reboots, so would a PAC or my circuit. In which case that still when you want these to power up, with the radio.

If you auto start your car and switched 12 volts is not supplied to the radio at this time and the radio doesn't boot up, you don't care. You turn on the ignition and then the 12V switched powers up the Z1, then that's when you want the PAC's or my circuit to power up. It sounds really complicated, but if you power the PAC's or my circuit from the 12V switched going to the Z1, that fine, thats when you want it too boot up anyway.

Remember this radio is not like most, when it's powered off, it's off. But when you turn on the car, it's powered on, even if you say you want it "off" it's still on. If you run it off the AMP signal and you turn your radio "off" it's still on but the amp signal might go off. Not to dissagree with you Edrock, but I think powering it off the 12V switched (at the radio input) is probably the best approach.

[quote name="Corey497"]
1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??[/quote]

Yes you can do that, or get one of my circuits and don't install 2 things. But yes, if hooked correctly, you should still have the night day feature.


[quote name="Corey497"]
2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..
[/quote]

You could but the unit is so bright as it is, I like the night and day feature. Or you could install just my one unit and keep the night/day feature.



[quote name="Corey497"]
Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?[/quote]


You can hook it up regular. It's what I did. But with an automatic and putting it in park, I hardly ever use it. If I had a manual tranny, I would probably wire it to a toggle switch cause I wouldn't want to bother having it activated and deactivated with a PAC or my circuit in there.... just in case... it might not matter (and honestly I don't think it does) but just in case.

[Guest Corey497]

GUYS... thanks for the info, radio is in standby (like key off) when the remote start is on, the radio never comes on during the remote start, what im getting at is... When i turn the ignition on, the radio will come on (leaving it on say XM when i turn the key off) BUT the lights will aready be on, so will that 2 PAC circut cut the power, perform the bypass pulse's and then work as usuall??

[Guest Corey497]

[quote name="Corey497"]GUYS... thanks for the info, radio is in standby (like key off) when the remote start is on, the radio never comes on during the remote start, what im getting at is... When i turn the ignition on, the radio will come on (leaving it on say XM when i turn the key off) BUT the lights will aready be on, so will that 2 PAC circut cut the power, perform the bypass pulse's and then work as usuall??[/quote]

forgot, cant edit...

Ducadiboy, I just saw this thread:: When you first turn your car on, it will simulate the signal the head unit would normally see if you flashed your headlights. After 10 seconds have gone by, it watches what your lights are doing wether they are on or off. It does nothing to the car, it just watches. It then copies what your car is doing (have your lights on or off) and relays that signal to your head unit.

so that answers my question...
you selling anymore of the circuts? I just read something that said you want orders and they will ship after the 18th or something right??

[ducatiboy]

[quote name="Corey497"]GUYS... thanks for the info, radio is in standby (like key off) when the remote start is on, the radio never comes on during the remote start, what im getting at is... When i turn the ignition on, the radio will come on (leaving it on say XM when i turn the key off) BUT the lights will aready be on, so will that 2 PAC circut cut the power, perform the bypass pulse's and then work as usuall??[/quote]

You could use the two pacs. They power up with the radio. If the lights are already on, you will need 2 of them. But the fact that the radio does not come on till the key is turned means the 12V switched line going to the radio is not energized till you turn the key. When it is energized, it will power up the radio and the pac's all at once.

I know it seems complicated, but as long as the Z1 and the PAC (or my circuit) is powered up at the same time you are good to go.

[quote name="Corey497"]
so that answers my question...
you selling anymore of the circuts? I just read something that said you want orders and they will ship after the 18th or something right??[/quote]

Yes I am. There has been WAY more interest in these than even I thought. I'm working as hard as I can and I even bumped up the shipping of the next batch to get everything here for the weekend. I will waste a few hours of my weekend, but I'm hoping I can catch up with the demand. I built 12 tonight, I hope to finish the final few for the first batch tomorrow. I should get the second round Friday. Hopefully, if all goes well, shipping Monday.

Just read this post, it's all in there:
[url=http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166&start=0]http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 66&start=0[/url]

[edrock200]

[quote name="ducatiboy"]

Remember this radio is not like most, when it's powered off, it's off. But when you turn on the car, it's powered on, even if you say you want it "off" it's still on. If you run it off the AMP signal and you turn your radio "off" it's still on but the amp signal might go off. Not to dissagree with you Edrock, but I think powering it off the 12V switched (at the radio input) is probably the best approach.

[/quote]

This is true, I didn't think about that, however pulsing the unit again after it's already been bypassed doesn't hurt the unit or the state of the bypass either, so it should still work. My only reason for attaching it this way is you can get more consistent timing since you only get one pulse out of the pac-tr7.

[ducatiboy]

[quote name="edrock200"]
This is true, I didn't think about that, however pulsing the unit again after it's already been bypassed doesn't hurt the unit or the state of the bypass either, so it should still work. My only reason for attaching it this way is you can get more consistent timing since you only get one pulse out of the pac-tr7.[/quote]

Yah, I don't know about the PAC units, but if you have them hooked up via the AMP line and you "turn off the audio on your radio" you might not get "dimming" features when you turn your head lights on. I know you won't with my circuit. Not a big problem, but it is there. And if you have the audio (music) off, but are using the nav system... will the AMP line turn off... maybe you need to hear the nav voice though the amps in your car? I don't know, I didn't test it too much.

But the 12V switched is not "powering the car". It's just a signal line telling the radio when to turn on and when to turn off, no current flows though it (for the most part). All power is going though the 12V all the time yellow wire.

When the 12V switched line goes high, it tells the radio to turn on, it also powers the PACs or my circuit. Then the timing it based on the startup time of the radio from the sense of the 12V switched line. Or if you use the AMP line, assuming it still comes on if the AV is off in the head unit, you have the timing from AMP line turn on till it needs to flash.

It's probably 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other. But I don't think the 12V switched sense to power up of the unit is that variable. If the unit is on, then it is on cause the 12V switched went to 12V. If it goes away even for a second, then the unit reboots. I don't think that anyone will have issues with these powered up off the 12v switched even with any type of auto start system. I could be wrong, it has happened before and hopefully I will get some good feedback from these first units.

[HACK]

All of the Z1's that I have installed require you to flash the lights Twice in order to bypass. These instructions state that it only flashes Once.

Also, a different part is available, pre programmed and less expensive. The DEI 452T.

[ducatiboy]

[quote name="HACK"]All of the Z1's that I have installed require you to flash the lights Twice in order to bypass. These instructions state that it only flashes Once.

Also, a different part is available, pre programmed and less expensive. The DEI 452T.[/quote]

It's a matter of timing, Two flashes will work and so will 3, but you only need one. There are a ton of people on here who have it working with 1. If you need 2, try "pretending" on one of them (either the first or second). If you get the timing down, I'll bet you can get it with one flash.

As for the different part, I checked into the DEI, and yah it will make a flash. But if you have auto headlights, you will need to make sure they are not connected or on when it's flashing. You will probably also need a diode in there to stop the backfeeding into the car system. If you have that and your lights are on when it's flashing it won't work. Which is why I made my little circuit. But you can't beat the DEI price.

[Guest]

This works but I had to do 5 sec on the TR7 pulse

Thanks

[edrock200]

I have updated the instructions based on my own experience with the TR7's and other users input.

[BoCaPiMp]

whats the difference from when you first made this up?"

cause i have had it since that day, and i have NO problems"knock on wood"

i get all functions while drivig no problem with ur first post of these instructions, using 2 Pr7s