edrock200 Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 [color=red][b]DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MISHAPS, DAMAGE, OR HARM DONE TO YOU OR YOUR POSESSIONS BASED ON THESE INSTRUCTIONS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!![/b][/color] ****NOTE**** This thread is only for units manufactured prior to July 2006. For units made after July look here for instructions: [url=http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html]http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html[/url] For units prior to 07/06: [b]*****EDIT***** NOTE: The solution below will work and uses "off the shelf" parts. However, a fellow board member and Z1 enthusiast has developed an ALL IN ONE solution for forum members at a much cheaper price than 2 -TR7's and works with or without autoheadlights. I recommend this solution over the instructions below as there is no programming, it's cheaper, it works with all types of illumination/dimmer wires, and it's designed solely for this purpose. For more information and instructions on how to order please review this thread: [url=http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166]http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166[/url] *****END EDIT***** [/b] Hey guys, just wrote this up, hope it helps some of you out. Below are instructions on how to use one tr7 to bypass z1 security or 2 tr7's to bypass security with autoheadlights. Difficulty: Wiring - Moderate Programming - Easy [b]Programming a PAC-TR7 to bypass AVIC-Z1 motion security[/b] FYI, the following will work even if your parking brake, speed sense and GPS is all attached properly. You do not need to defeat these systems for this bypass to work. Make sure your PAC-TR7 is revision 1.1.2 or greater! The ONLY way to tell if it is 1.1.2 or greater is by looking at the bottom left hand corner of the instructions that came with your PAC unit. It will say something like “SW 1.2.4.†IF at ANY point you mess up during this process unhook the red power line, turn your PAC switch off and then back on, reattach power and start over. READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION SET before starting. You have to be pretty quick, and if you wait too long between steps you have to start over. Take your pac out and strip the leads, make sure none of the leads touch each other. Turn the switch to your PAC ON. Attach the black lead to ground and the red lead to an unswitched positive source. Touch the brown wire to ground (wherever the black wire is hooked up will do) 17 times. You will see the red light flash every time you touch. Wait 3 seconds The red light on the PAC should now flash 17 times, MAKE SURE it flashes 17 times. Touch brown to ground once Wait 3 seconds for the red light to flash quickly for a second. Wait 3 more seconds for the red light to flash 2 sets of light flashes quickly Wait 3 more seconds for the red light to flash 3 sets of light flashes quickly Touch the brown wire to ground 5 times. Confirm the red light flashes 5 times Wait 3 seconds for the light to flash 4 sets of light flashes quickly followed by rapidly flashing lights. You have now completed programming. You have just programmed your PAC-TR7 to pulse once after 5 seconds when on a constant trigger. Now TURN OFF the PAC-TR7 switch. Wiring: Attach the red wire to either constant + or switched +, it doesn’t matter which, I'd recommend switched. Attach black to ground. Attach BLUE to your Z1 dimmer wire, I highly suggest putting a diode inline to allow electricity to only flow towards the HU. Attach Green to Z1's amp turn on wire. That’s it your done. Upon starting your car your TR7 will send a + pulse to your HU between 5-6 seconds after the the amp turn on wire turns on which should be timed properly to unlock your Z1. [b]AUTOHEADLIGHTS WORKAROUND[/b] If you want your dimmer wire to function properly (ie dim the HU at night) and you have auto headlights or don’t want to wait 7 seconds to turn your headlights on (if you have autolights at night and/or your headlights turn on BEFORE the TR7 pulses the trick WILL NOT WORK without performing the steps below) here’s what you do. First off you will need ANOTHER TR7. Program the first one as stated above. Program the second one as follows: IF at ANY point you mess up during this process unhook the red power line, turn your PAC switch off and then back on, reattach power and start over. READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION SET before starting. You have to be pretty quick, and if you wait too long between steps you have to start over. Take your pac out and strip the leads, make sure none of the leads touch each other. Turn the switch to your PAC ON. Attach the black lead to ground and the red lead to an unswitched positive source. Touch the brown wire to ground (wherever the black wire is hooked up will do) 12 times. You will see the red light flash every time you touch. Wait 3 seconds The red light on the PAC should now flash 12 times, MAKE SURE it flashes 12 times. Now ground the brown wire once Wait 3 seconds Confirm the light blinks once Ground the brown wire again once Wait 3 seconds Confirm the light blinks once Wait 3 seconds Ground the brown wire once again Wait 3 seconds Confirm the light blinks once Ground the brown wire once The light will let out 1 quick burst of light flashing Wait 3 seconds The light will let out 2 quick bursts of light flashes Touch the ground wire twice Wait 3 seconds Confirm the light blinks twice The light will let out 3 quick bursts of light flashes Wait 3 seconds The light will let out 4 quick bursts of light flashes Ground the brown wire once The light will let out 1 quick burst of light flashing Wait 3 seconds The light will let out 2 quick bursts of light flashes Touch the ground wire twice Wait 3 seconds Confirm the light blinks twice The light will let out 3 quick bursts of light flashes Wait 3 seconds The light will let out 4 quick bursts of light flashes Ground the brown wire once The light will let out 1 quick burst of light flashing Wait 3 seconds The light will let out 2 quick bursts of light flashes Touch the ground wire twice Wait 3 seconds Confirm the light blinks twice The light will let out 3 quick bursts of light flashes Wait 3 seconds The light will let out 4 quick bursts of light flashes The unit will now flash the light quickly. Programming is complete. What you have just done is programmed the output to delay turning on for 20 seconds. The steps above actually have you turn on this timer on all 3 outputs when you really only need it on the first one. But since you have to program all 3 timers anyway I figured might as well program them all for 20 seconds, it doesn’t hurt anything. Turn the switch to the PAC OFF and wire as follows: Attach the red wire to switched positive, I'd recommend the red wire off the Z1. (TR7 current draw is minimal). Attach black to ground. Attach BLUE to your Z1 dimmer wire, I highly suggest putting a diode inline to allow electricity to only flow towards the HU. Attach the green wire to the cars factory dimmer wire. If wired properly you should have the following scenario: Black wires from both TR7’s are going to chassis ground. Red wires from both TR7’s are going to switched positive. Blue wires from both TR7’s are going to Z1 dimmer wire with diode inline (do not connect – side [unstriped] of diode’s together!) Green wire from 5 second pulse programming is going to Z1 amp turn on wire Green wire from 20 second delay programming is going to car dimmer wire - I've personally put a diode on this wire too Basically what will happen is if you start your car at night, your lights will automatically come on, however the dimmer wire on the Z1 will not get the signal to dim the display for 20 seconds. Before that 20 seconds is up your first TR7 module will send a pulse to the dimmer wire to disable security features. Good luck and post in this thread with questions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonH Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Fantastic Post! This is a sticky! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edrock200 Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 [quote name="JasonH"]Fantastic Post! This is a sticky![/quote] Thanks, and thanks for making this great site! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edrock200 Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 I just realized it would be better to use the amp turn on wire as the trigger as opposed to an ignition switched wire. I'm modifying the instructions now. *edit* ok modified to have amp turn on wire as trigger for 3 second security bypass and amp turn on as power for 20 second delay wire. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edrock200 Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 I just thought of something else....with the second module for the auto headlight trick I have two other ground triggers on timers....I could set them to stay on for a second then turn off which would eliminate the parking brake warning and I could use my parking brake with no ill effect....hmm.... Anyone know how the Z1 detects parking brake abnormalities? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 For those who have never programmed a tr7, i reccomentd bench programming instead of having it hooked up in the car, will save you a massive headache. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest spudwh0re Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Just put the tr7 on my car and it works every time, even if it was left on dvd when you turned off the car. Thanks for the work.!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest spudwh0re Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Also, I agree bench setup your tr7, as well I have my parking brake wire grounded and speed sensor hooked up. Everything works great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thenewkid Posted May 3, 2006 Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 [quote name="Anonymous"]For those who have never programmed a tr7, i reccomentd bench programming instead of having it hooked up in the car, will save you a massive headache.[/quote] What is bench programming ?.....kind of new to this stuff pls help. thanks :roll: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edrock200 Posted May 3, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2006 [quote name="thenewkid"] [quote name="Anonymous"]For those who have never programmed a tr7, i reccomentd bench programming instead of having it hooked up in the car, will save you a massive headache.[/quote] What is bench programming ?.....kind of new to this stuff pls help. thanks :roll:[/quote] It means to program the unit outside of your car with a 12v source and multimeter if available. If you do not have a 12v source I'd suggest getting a cigarette lighter adapter from radio shack. It's important to program your unit and test it before installing it to make sure it's functioning properly. On a side note if anyone in the NoVA area needs help you can PM me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BoCaPiMp Posted May 4, 2006 Report Share Posted May 4, 2006 Got my Z1 installed today.. did the mod on my own with 2 Tr7s (auto headlights mod) .. AWSOME!!! works 100%.. didnt use diodes, will that hurt me? P s. Edrock - thanks for all the help, really appresiate it.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
05Stang-GT Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Diodes would be a good idea, it prevents backfeeding voltage into the cars ciruits... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edrock200 Posted May 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 [quote name="BoCaPiMp"]Got my Z1 installed today.. did the mod on my own with 2 Tr7s (auto headlights mod) .. AWSOME!!! works 100%.. didnt use diodes, will that hurt me? P s. Edrock - thanks for all the help, really appresiate it..[/quote] No prob, glad it worked for you. As 03-Vic-HPP mentioned, my only concern is that the TR7's would feed back power to the lights which would may overload and worst case blow a fuse. However, in examing the TR7's design closer it appears that the unit itself acts as a diode as I can't detect voltage on the trigger wire when putting power to the output wire, so no feedback occurs. You should be fine, I just use diodes to be safe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
05Stang-GT Posted May 5, 2006 Report Share Posted May 5, 2006 Yeah, better safe than sorry, I know a lot of cars now days (at least mine) uses a computer (Lighting Control Module [LCM]) to controll all of the lights in the car so feeding 12v back into it could be bad news... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest GUEST Posted May 8, 2006 Report Share Posted May 8, 2006 I HAVE PROGRAMED UP A TR7 TO DO AS YOU SAY. I HAVE ALSO METERED THE TR7 TO MAKE SURE IT IS PULSING +12V AT 3-4 SEC. BUT THE LOCK OUT IS NOT WORKING ANY MORE INFO WOULD BE GREAT THANK BRETT! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.