bypass stil dnt work WTF help plz

[jctbss]

well its been 3 weeks since i got my z110 and yet my bypass still dnt work the installer first said that he had to take the unit apart and do the by pass internally then he said to give it a couple days so that i can work WTF??? so i did and nothing he claims he moved the mute wire one over and still nothing. im tired of going back and forth so does anyone know any shop in socal where they can do the bypass properlly thanks....

[CaptainInsaneO]

No installer worth his salt (read: the ones who won't rip you off) will do this for you.

 

You need to do it yourself.

[VBLUE42]

well its been 3 weeks since i got my z110 and yet my bypass still dnt work the installer first said that he had to take the unit apart and do the by pass internally then he said to give it a couple days so that i can work WTF??? so i did and nothing he claims he moved the mute wire one over and still nothing. im tired of going back and forth so does anyone know any shop in socal where they can do the bypass properlly thanks....

 

That is the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard. I certainly would not ever go back to that shop and warn everyone you know to stay far away.

[CaptainInsaneO]

WHERE in So Cal are you?

 

From the spelling I'm guessing LA

[jctbss]

WHERE in So Cal are you?

 

From the spelling I'm guessing LA

 

yeah im in LA......

[geekswag]

WHERE in So Cal are you?

 

From the spelling I'm guessing LA

 

yeah im in LA......

 

 

Well i'm in Torrance and if you don't feel comfortable doing it yaself or haven't had it done yet. This is the best shop i know. It's called All Star Sound, they are a pioneer shop pretty much. Great people

http://www.yelp.com/biz/all-star-sound-long-beach

Hope that helps

[rgarjr]

how come you don't do it yourself? Heck, I'll even do it for you I'm in West Covina, CA

[Ixian]

I don't consider myself an electrician by any stretch of the imagination and had never installed my own car audio before my recent install and even I found the bypass to be the easiest part of the entire process. Getting the cable out is the hardest part, and honest to God I only think some people think that is hard because they are all thumbs (no offense!)

 

Look, you find the yellow mute wire, you stick a bent safety pin in the little latch cover at the bottom of the plug - there's only one, don't pop it all the way off - then you stick another bent pin or staple in the plug and slowly work it forward until it pops right out. I had it out in perfect shape my first try. It took me longer to find pins to bend then to get the cable out.

 

Then you move it one over, with the pin still in the latch at the bottom, and push it in until you feel it click in. Remove the pin from the latch. Done.

 

Now you take that wire and the parking break wire, you strip about 1/4 inch of the end of each, you give them a good twist around each other, then you move to the ground cable. You strip about 1/4 inch insulation off it (you don't have to clip it in half, just work the stripper around two points on the cable, carefully take a razor, and cut it the insulation off so you have a bare piece of copper in the middle of the cable). You take your twisted mute and parking break wire and twist those real good around the ground.

 

Then, since you want to do this right and have it work and not be a chucklehead you take a soldering iron - a $7, 14 watt one from Radioshack will do - and some $2, 60/40 solder also from Radio Shack, assuming you don't have these things already, and you solder them together. If you've never done this before don't panic because in the soldering world this is about the easiest job there is. You let the iron heat up about a minute. You hold it UNDER the twisted together wires, bending them slightly so they form a slight "V" around the side of the iron, near the tip (not the tip itself). You wait about 30 seconds or so holding it like this - this is why many solder irons have stands - so the copper wires heat up real good. Then you touch the solder to the heated wire, NOT the soldering iron, and watch in joy as it instantly melts and flows over and in to your twisted cables. It doesn't take much, a couple brief touches and you are done. If you get little bulbous pieces of solder on top of the wire and not in it congratulations, you just created a "cold solder" joint, you don't want that, take it apart and do it again.

 

At this point you can tape it with electrical tape, or go super-pro mode and use a piece of heatshrink tube, slip it over the end of the ground then over the now soldered connection. You hold that up and run a lighter rapidly back and forth underneath without letting the flame actually touch the heatstrink or wire for reasons that hopefully are apparent. Now you have a soldered, spliced connection that is rock solid and won't break when you push and pull crap in your dash during the install.

 

And, since you didn't do all that for nothing, you don't act like a chucklehead and attach the ground to any random piece of metal, you find a non-painted metal surface that's attached to the frame - lucky for you, in the dash where you're putting your head unit you will find plenty of such places - and preferably already has a screw in it. In some vehicles the best place is actually right where the head unit itself screws in. Attach the ground nice and tight there. DO NOT HALF-ASS THIS PART.

 

Finally, since you are now a super-pro wannabe installer you solder all your other connections to for your radio harness too.

 

DONE. EASY. WORKS.

 

Where do people go wrong with the bypass?

 

Well, first there's the ones who can't get the pin out. Can't help you there but it's not impossible, I know this.

 

Then there's the ones who damage the pin getting it out. That ain't good because those pins, they aren't easy to come by. Try not to be that guy. Also It's not just about getting it out, it's about putting it back *in* right and I suspect after having read these forums more than a few people mess that step up.

 

Also there are the ones who munge up the cable splicing. You need to do it like I outlined above. Don't try to go the easy way and use freaking T-tap connectors, or cut and crimp with butte connectors, yeah maybe that will work, and maybe not, or maybe it'll work then come apart a year later and leave you wondering what the hell happened. Do it right the first time.

 

Finally, there's the ground, aka the negative side of the electrical system. You know, I may not be a certified electrician, but even I know that grounding to the negative circuit in your vehicle is a very important part of the entire process. Too many people take their time with the pos+ and other cables and then when it comes to the ground they just stick it half-assed wherever they think works. Don't do this. It's not for nothing that 100% of professional audio installers will tell you that almost every problem they see with an install leads back to the ground, or lack thereof.

 

 

P.S. If you have an installer telling you he had to do an "internal bypass" on these units you need to get your money back and maybe kick him in the nuts for assuming you were that stupid. Don't BE that stupid

 

PPS also since you are on a forum using a real keyboard and not some teenaged text message service or twitter you should really spell out words like "please" instead of "plz" and don't use "WTF" ever, we're not playing Counterstrike here, you want people to take you seriously and not think you are some 13 year old boy with ADD don't you?

[jctbss]

I don't consider myself an electrician by any stretch of the imagination and had never installed my own car audio before my recent install and even I found the bypass to be the easiest part of the entire process. Getting the cable out is the hardest part, and honest to God I only think some people think that is hard because they are all thumbs (no offense!)

 

Look, you find the yellow mute wire, you stick a bent safety pin in the little latch cover at the bottom of the plug - there's only one, don't pop it all the way off - then you stick another bent pin or staple in the plug and slowly work it forward until it pops right out. I had it out in perfect shape my first try. It took me longer to find pins to bend then to get the cable out.

 

Then you move it one over, with the pin still in the latch at the bottom, and push it in until you feel it click in. Remove the pin from the latch. Done.

 

Now you take that wire and the parking break wire, you strip about 1/4 inch of the end of each, you give them a good twist around each other, then you move to the ground cable. You strip about 1/4 inch insulation off it (you don't have to clip it in half, just work the stripper around two points on the cable, carefully take a razor, and cut it the insulation off so you have a bare piece of copper in the middle of the cable). You take your twisted mute and parking break wire and twist those real good around the ground.

 

Then, since you want to do this right and have it work and not be a chucklehead you take a soldering iron - a $7, 14 watt one from Radioshack will do - and some $2, 60/40 solder also from Radio Shack, assuming you don't have these things already, and you solder them together. If you've never done this before don't panic because in the soldering world this is about the easiest job there is. You let the iron heat up about a minute. You hold it UNDER the twisted together wires, bending them slightly so they form a slight "V" around the side of the iron, near the tip (not the tip itself). You wait about 30 seconds or so holding it like this - this is why many solder irons have stands - so the copper wires heat up real good. Then you touch the solder to the heated wire, NOT the soldering iron, and watch in joy as it instantly melts and flows over and in to your twisted cables. It doesn't take much, a couple brief touches and you are done. If you get little bulbous pieces of solder on top of the wire and not in it congratulations, you just created a "cold solder" joint, you don't want that, take it apart and do it again.

 

At this point you can tape it with electrical tape, or go super-pro mode and use a piece of heatshrink tube, slip it over the end of the ground then over the now soldered connection. You hold that up and run a lighter rapidly back and forth underneath without letting the flame actually touch the heatstrink or wire for reasons that hopefully are apparent. Now you have a soldered, spliced connection that is rock solid and won't break when you push and pull crap in your dash during the install.

 

And, since you didn't do all that for nothing, you don't act like a chucklehead and attach the ground to any random piece of metal, you find a non-painted metal surface that's attached to the frame - lucky for you, in the dash where you're putting your head unit you will find plenty of such places - and preferably already has a screw in it. In some vehicles the best place is actually right where the head unit itself screws in. Attach the ground nice and tight there. DO NOT HALF-ASS THIS PART.

 

Finally, since you are now a super-pro wannabe installer you solder all your other connections to for your radio harness too.

 

DONE. EASY. WORKS.

 

Where do people go wrong with the bypass?

 

Well, first there's the ones who can't get the pin out. Can't help you there but it's not impossible, I know this.

 

Then there's the ones who damage the pin getting it out. That ain't good because those pins, they aren't easy to come by. Try not to be that guy. Also It's not just about getting it out, it's about putting it back *in* right and I suspect after having read these forums more than a few people mess that step up.

 

Also there are the ones who munge up the cable splicing. You need to do it like I outlined above. Don't try to go the easy way and use freaking T-tap connectors, or cut and crimp with butte connectors, yeah maybe that will work, and maybe not, or maybe it'll work then come apart a year later and leave you wondering what the hell happened. Do it right the first time.

 

Finally, there's the ground, aka the negative side of the electrical system. You know, I may not be a certified electrician, but even I know that grounding to the negative circuit in your vehicle is a very important part of the entire process. Too many people take their time with the pos+ and other cables and then when it comes to the ground they just stick it half-assed wherever they think works. Don't do this. It's not for nothing that 100% of professional audio installers will tell you that almost every problem they see with an install leads back to the ground, or lack thereof.

 

 

P.S. If you have an installer telling you he had to do an "internal bypass" on these units you need to get your money back and maybe kick him in the nuts for assuming you were that stupid. Don't BE that stupid

 

PPS also since you are on a forum using a real keyboard and not some teenaged text message service or twitter you should really spell out words like "please" instead of "plz" and don't use "WTF" ever, we're not playing Counterstrike here, you want people to take you seriously and not think you are some 13 year old boy with ADD don't you?

 

havent been on here a for a while but thanks i finally got the bypass issue resolved and actually i am using a cell phone keyboard to write this thats why i abreviate alot but thanks anyways..