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Headlights locking up 120


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I should also mention I had the same lights/setup with my z3 and never had the problem.

 

Yea clearly these manufactures have been making adjustments to the power requirements of the units. I have had an even stranger issue with my Kenwood that had myself and several veteran installers completely baffled. It too seemed to be related to certain power requirements that the unit had. This one took me almost a month to troubleshoot and find a solution to.

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Mine only came with the one harness. I'm not entirely sure what the new/different harness should be/look like as I have never dealt with this before. Here is a link(http://www.philipsxenon.com/philips-bul ... -c-380_383 to the two harnesses available from Philips for my lighting system. Would you be able to tell me which of those I need? Thank you so much.

 

You can try the following forum here:

 

http://www.tahoeforum.com

 

Other then that maybe try a google search for an HID harness for your vehicle.

I appreciate that I need a different harness, I just am not sure what type of harness you are telling me I need/how it differs from mine. Am I looking to plug both ballasts into each factor harness? If I understood what exactly the harness changes from what I have now, I could go to google and get it sorted....sorry for the confusion, I have only ever dealt with Philips xenon kits meaning I have only ever used one type of harness.

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Am I looking to plug both ballasts into each factor harness?

 

Yes. Most H.I.D. kits you buy allow you to specify what vehicle you have and provide a harness to plug into the vehicle harness for true Plug N Play. Now, most of these kits are cheap pieces of crap bough off of ebay but some high end kits also offer this option. I use NOTTO SE H.I.D. systems and have had excellent results.

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Am I looking to plug both ballasts into each factor harness?

 

Yes. Most H.I.D. kits you buy allow you to specify what vehicle you have and provide a harness to plug into the vehicle harness for true Plug N Play. Now, most of these kits are cheap pieces of crap bough off of ebay but some high end kits also offer this option. I use NOTTO SE H.I.D. systems and have had excellent results.

Thank you. The Philips system I have is most definitely not cheap crap (same lights/ballasts bmw uses, although I'm positive the harnesses are sources from someone else). I will check out notto and see if they have a harness system that allows me to fix this. If I used a 50w resistor would I be able to skip the aftermarket harnesses and plug the Phillips ballasts into the factory harness? Sorry for going beyond the spectrum of this website, but you seem to be very knowledgeable and also have prior experience with this exact issue.

I do appreciate the help and apologize if I have come off as a noob.

Thanks again guys.

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If I used a 50w resistor would I be able to skip the aftermarket harnesses and plug the Phillips ballasts into the factory harness?

 

I am sorry but that goes beyond my knowledge. And while we have had this thread going I have done many Google searches to try and find a harness for you and have come up empty as well. In fact, Notto may no longer be offering dual harness options with their kits. PM forum member 1loudls and see if he has any insight into another solution. He is one of the most knowledgable installers on this forum.

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If I used a 50w resistor would I be able to skip the aftermarket harnesses and plug the Phillips ballasts into the factory harness?

 

I am sorry but that goes beyond my knowledge. And while we have had this thread going I have done many Google searches to try and find a harness for you and have come up empty as well. In fact, Notto may no longer be offering dual harness options with their kits. PM forum member 1loudls and see if he has any insight into another solution. He is one of the most knowledgable installers on this forum.

Thank you again for your time/help. When I get it sorted, I will make sure to post the fix in case any other gm truck owners run into the same problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...
You maybe exceeding your alternator's output.

 

Very well could be, being a GM.... They always underrate their alternators....

You can upgrade a higher amp alternator fairly cheap, by grabbing a Escalade or Denali's alternator from NAPA...

 

Of course, it would be much cheaper to just wire the HIDs to the original light sockets....

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The problem is the spike of ac power coming from the lights as they turn on creating noise that then messes with the unit. Working with an electrical engineer and veteran car audio installer today, we found a fix that doesn't involve altering or messing with the HIDs, the unit, or harness at all and takes about 60 seconds to do if you have the correct parts. We will be making a number of the fixes both for our audio shop and to sell online for $20.

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You maybe exceeding your alternator's output.
It's not occurring from a lack of power

Being that you're driving a GM, it could very well be...

 

 

Your two last post sounds a bit of BS to me..... Ie.... I'm not buying what you're selling....

There's too much info on the net(to actually learn), than for me to buy into your crapcocktion.....

 

Your work-a-round probably cost less than 2 bucks....wonder how I know?????

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You maybe exceeding your alternator's output.
It's not occurring from a lack of power

Being that you're driving a GM, it could very well be...

 

 

Your two last post sounds a bit of BS to me..... Ie.... I'm not buying what you're selling....

There's too much info on the net(to actually learn), than for me to buy into your crapcocktion.....

 

Your work-a-round probably cost less than 2 bucks....wonder how I know?????

Not BS at all, and I couldn't care less if you're buying the fix I am offering, you are free to solve the problem any way you wish. I am telling you, the problem is NOT from a lack of power as discovered by an electrical engineer (I'm going to trust an MIT EE graduate's finding over that of someone I don't know on the internet) and also a twenty year veteran in car audio installation. You can disagree with me all you want, but I know for a fact what exactly was causing my problem which is more than is known by the users who just know that the HIDs have something to do with it. So unless the root of my problem was the complete opposite of the similar problems others had (which is unlikely), the issue I explained prior to this post IS what is causing the 120bt to have the muting issue.

If someone were interested in purchasing the fix, I would run the transaction through my ebay store (100% feedback I'm not willing to risk messing up) and paypal as an assurance to them that I am legitimate and that they are protected should I in some way screw them over or the fix does not work. If that is not enough security, the transaction could be handled by the car audio shop, who would have more to lose than gain by selling the piece.

I'm not looking to screw anyone over, just offering a fix for this issue that doesn't involve messing with the HIDs/their harness, or the factory headlight harnesses, and also costs much less than a new alternator. $20 isn't much to fix a problem with a $1,500 unit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

im having the same exact problem and am interested in knowing what your proclaimed fix involves, i do not want to wire my HID's direct into the factory wiring and much prefer using a relay harness, So if i can retain the relay harness and make this problem go away , i would be open to it.

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  • 4 months later...

The problem is the spike of ac power coming from the lights as they turn on creating noise that then messes with the unit. Working with an electrical engineer and veteran car audio installer today, we found a fix that doesn't involve altering or messing with the HIDs, the unit, or harness at all and takes about 60 seconds to do if you have the correct parts. We will be making a number of the fixes both for our audio shop and to sell online for $20.

 

How can we get this?

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