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Potentially really stupid question


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I removed my AVIC-Z110BT headunit quite some time ago because of battery drainage issues.I believe the issues were caused elsewhere, but I removed every aftermarket piece to ensure I could narrow things down.

 

Since that time, I have moved from Cedar Rapids, IA back down to Georgia.

 

Today, I went to reinstall the unit, and the Yellow "battery" connection, the fused connector, had no opposite end. So I noticed from my XM Pioneer unit that they plug together perfectly.

 

I have a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS. Does the metra piece and relay and all of that mess take care of the battery side of the house. or am I actually missing another wire here?

 

It's dark out or I would snap a pic on my phone and upload it for actual reference.

 

I can no longer find my damn manuals, and after downloading the PDF files for the quick start, install and owners manuals, I am still at a loss.

 

Can someone please lead me in a direction that may shed some light on an apparently blind bat flying aimlessly through a cave with no exit?

 

I am very sorry for such a potentially stupid question for my first post. I have been a fan of this site since the day I got my Z110BT and have had the upgrade 110BT to 120BT thread bookmarked for ages. But as stated, I removed the unit some time ago to eliminate an after market known hassles to ensure I found my batter drain issue.

 

Any help would be greatly, greatly appreciated, and feel free to point and laugh at the morAn farking about like a fat fingered illiterate computer jedi! Thank you very much fellas, I honestly appreciate the time and effort so many of you put into this place to make it such a remarkable one stop resource for us not so inclined car audio stupids.

 

If a pic is needed, I can shine the old MAG light and grab a pic and add it to the thread for clarity, but I am pretty sure someone here will understand my dilemma while laughing a my mad harness skilz!

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Seriously? I am asking about the yellow wire labeled "BATTERY" from the harness. I didn't realize it was that difficult to understand my message.

 

The yellow wire labeled battery appears to hold a fuse, and I have no other end, so I am asking if there is indeed another end or does that go to the battery side of an accessory such as the XM unit.

 

Maybe that's a bit easier of a read. Perhaps pictures would have done more justice to the original post.

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If it just needs to go to a 12 volt constant, then that's fine as long as someone can tell me the size fuse I would need since I can't find a fuse that went with the yellow battery wire.

 

 

The yellow wire doesn't come with an in-line fuse, so it was probably added by your installer. Of course, it needs to be connected to a fused constant +12v source, so if you are connecting it directly to an unprotected source (like the battery) you need one. I just used the existing stock radio power (which has a fuse in the fuse-box) so no additional fuse was necessary. The User Manual (available from Pioneer online) says HU current max draw is 10 Amps, so that would be a good starting point. You could go to 15.

 

I think VBlue was referring to all that irrelevant detail and the part about the XM tuner. He covers all the Pioneer units - so he has lots of reading/responding to do. That's why he got a little impatient.

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The yellow wire doesn't come with an in-line fuse, so it was probably added by your installer. Of course, it needs to be connected to a fused constant +12v source, so if you are connecting it directly to an unprotected source (like the battery) you need one. I just used the existing stock radio power (which has a fuse in the fuse-box) so no additional fuse was necessary. The User Manual (available from Pioneer online) says HU current max draw is 10 Amps, so that would be a good starting point. You could go to 15.

 

I think VBlue was referring to all that irrelevant detail and the part about the XM tuner. He covers all the Pioneer units - so he has lots of reading/responding to do. That's why he got a little impatient.

I was the installer. And It looks to be very much a part of the factory unit. I'll grab a pic here in just a minute!

 

As for the complete detail in my first post, it's to provide as much background as absolutely possible so that I am able to give those that may be able to help all of the detail of my situation and everything I have tried or could think of to try.

 

Pic will be available here briefly.

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Ok, here are 3 images of the yellow battery wire in question.. It's spliced to to relay and to the scosche relay and the scosche stereo replacement module with door chimes..

 

Hopefully this will provide a bit more clarity.. I apologize for perhaps not being completely clear in my initial post. But again, I prefer providing all info in case I overlook or just miss something completely.

post-53378-0-12606200-1308146677_thumb.jpg

post-53378-0-30523300-1308146743_thumb.jpg

post-53378-0-63257000-1308146836_thumb.jpg

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Ok, here are 3 images of the yellow battery wire in question.. It's spliced to to relay and to the scosche relay and the scosche stereo replacement module with door chimes..

 

Hopefully this will provide a bit more clarity.. I apologize for perhaps not being completely clear in my initial post. But again, I prefer providing all info in case I overlook or just miss something completely.

 

OK, so now I'm confused. Your pictures are of a modified harness/relay. I answered your question about the fuse. So what are you asking? Oh, and the HU has a 10AMP fuse right above the power harness connector, so another fuse isn't necessary to protect the HU. You should use an inline fuse if you need to get your constant +12v from an un-fused source (fuse-box or battery). The inline fuse should be as close to the source as possible so that any short with the yellow wire is protected. BTW, that fuse holder isn't OEM.

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