Z1 functioning normally...almost

[AVCop]

I installed the Z1 in my 07 Avalanche today. I used the PAC Audio 0S3Bose interface. Here's my issue...chimes, back up sensors and turn signals are functioning like they should. The green light on the rear view mirror is on, which I thought meant On Star was working, which after pressing the button this afternoon, I found out it wasn't. My check engine light is also on, which I don't understand either. I've also got some buttons greyed out on the Nav. screen, like the setting a new route button. Also using ducatiboy's bypass. Regular Fm radio and XM also working normally. Can anyone offer any assistance on what I did wrong? Advice and tips woud be much appreciated.

[bobby121687]

did you use the gmos harness? i believe for your car it should use gmos 01 possibly 04

[cntrylvr79]

did you use the gmos harness? i believe for your car it should use gmos 01 possibly 04

 

Nope those don't work with the 07 lanbus trucks. I can't speak to the onstar not working, unless one of the plugs is loose. As for the bypass though, what's the manufacture date on the avic? Is it the flash your lights bypass, or the move the wire bypass? Either way check your connections.

[AVCop]

Manufacture date on the Avic is 3/06 according to the back of the unit. I've got the "flash your lights" bypass. I've prob. got a connection loose for the Onstar problem, or that's what I'm thinking, but I wasn't sure. Just wondered if anyone else had any ideas as to why that wasn't working if that wasn't the problem. Thanks cntrylvr79. If I need to give more info, yall just let me know.

[AVCop]

Another ? on the Nav not working like it should...the GPS is tracking me correctly from what I'm seeing. But just about all the buttons are greyed out...would this be from installing ducatiboy's bypass incorrectly? Being able to plot a route is pretty much what I got the Nav for....just wondering what I did wrong.

[cntrylvr79]

If all the buttons are greyed out then you have a problem with the bypass or the wiring of it.

[AVCop]

I had a feeling that might be it....thanks cntrylvr79

[AVCop]

Couldn't figure out what I wired wrong, so I just grounded the parking break. That gave me access to all my buttons on the Nav screen. It'll do for now. Thanks for your help.

[AVCop]

Update to previous post. Since I couldn't figure out the bypass, I decided to go the other route and do the bluetooth update since I needed to do that anyway and do the 2 ground wire bypass, sounded simple enough. Now my NAV functions are gone again. The parking break wire was grounded and so was the cell phone mute wire in the pin ducatiboy designated. Now my NAV functions are gone again. Seems like I fix one problem and that creates another one. Help???

[cntrylvr79]

Check the connection on the cell mute wire. There in lies your problem.

[ducatiboy]

Manufacture date on the Avic is 3/06 according to the back of the unit.

 

I can't help you with the onstar problem but I can help with the bypass.... The problem here could be many things.

 

Any chance you have a refurb unit or that your 03/06 Avic was updated with new software or a new hard drive?

 

 

* If your Avic-Z1 was made in January 2006 through and including June 2006 and it still has the factory original software loaded on it then you need to flash your headlights when you start the car.

 

* If your Avic-Z1 was made in July 2006 through the present (I believe the newest Avic-Z1's are made in December 2006) then you need to ground 2 wires.

 

* If you have ever updated your Avic-Z1 with the Bluetooth Update CD (no matter what month your unit was made) then you need to ground 2 wires.

 

Sometimes refurbs are updated at the factory. So it's possible that you got a 03/06 that has the update and then you don't need the flash your lights bypass.

 

So assuming you DO NOT have the update and your 03/06 is stock....

 

You want my circuit installed:

Connect the orange wire of this circuit to the orange/white ILL wire coming from the head unit.

 

Connect the black wire of this circuit to black ground wire coming from the head unit.

 

Connect the red wire of this circuit to the blue/white "System Remote Control" wire coming from the head unit.

 

Connect the white wire of this circuit to the illumination/dimmer line which is coming from the car. In your case you would want it on the ILL out of the PAC Audio 0S3Bose if there is one. I am not familiar with this device.

 

If that doesn't work and your Z1 is not bypassed

http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html#manualtesting

Then turn on your headlights and make sure the screen dims, if the screen does not dim then there is something wrong, either a bad connection or a failed circuit. Try taking what was connected to my white wire and what was connected to my orange wire and removing my circuit (just those 2 wires) and connecting what was connected to my circuit to each other (bypassing my circuit). If that dims the screen with the lights, most likely it's my circuit.

If the screen DOES dim with the lights then my circuit is working and you probably have the bluetooth update installed. Or it's possible the parking brake is grounded.

 

 

If your unit does have old pre bluetooth update software then grounding the parking brake will stop any flashing of the headlights from doing anything. Also if you get the parking brake not connected properly pop up message that will stop it too.

 

 

Lets say that you might have the bluetooth update already installed. You can leave in my circuit. It won't hurt anything.

 

 

Update to previous post. Since I couldn't figure out the bypass, I decided to go the other route and do the bluetooth update since I needed to do that anyway and do the 2 ground wire bypass, sounded simple enough. Now my NAV functions are gone again. The parking break wire was grounded and so was the cell phone mute wire in the pin ducatiboy designated. Now my NAV functions are gone again. Seems like I fix one problem and that creates another one. Help???

 

Since the update took, then most likely it wasn't installed and there was either a problem with the bypass or the wiring of it.

 

Now, what's the problem. Nav functions are gone again... when stopped or when moving?

 

If it's when stopped, then the parking brake is not grounded.

 

If the stuff is there when stopped but when moving they go away.

 

Check the connection on the cell mute wire. There in lies your problem.

 

He is right, that wire is not grounded. Most people ground the wire correctly but fail to insert the terminal into connector 2 all the way. I would focus on that if you have the unit bypassed when stopped but not when moving.

[AVCop]

First of all, thanks very much to you ducatiboy for all the great help you provide to folks on this board. My NAV functions are gone completely, when stopped AND when driving. I've got something wired wrong, or a wire has come loose, I keep thinking that's the problem. I'll dbl check the parking break wire and the cell phone mute wire when I have time to get back behind the HU. Also...when I first completed the 2 ground wire bypass after the bluetooth update, I did a level 1 reset to get rid of the parking break error message, which worked, I didn't get that message anymore. Since the parking break wire may not be grounded properly, shouldn't I be getting that error screen again? Cause, I'm not, I haven't seen that error message at all, which sort of confuses me even more. Anyhow...Thanks to both cntrylver79 and ducati for helping out.

[ducatiboy]

Since the parking break wire may not be grounded properly, shouldn't I be getting that error screen again? Cause, I'm not, I haven't seen that error message at all, which sort of confuses me even more. Anyhow...Thanks to both cntrylver79 and ducati for helping out.

 

No. You will only get that message if the parking brake is grounded and you move. If it's not grounded, that's the state it normally sits in when the parking brake is NOT engaged. Which is normal, and some people never use the parking brake so the Z1 is ok with that. What it hates is seeing the parking brake grounded all the time even when moving.

 

If you get nothing ever, then check the parking brake wire.

[AVCop]

Ok...yet another question from the "installation impaired": When that cell phone mute wire is grounded in that pin, you mention a metal tang...are you referring to the connector, or the metal pins the connector seats in on the back of the HU? Cause there isn't a metal tang on the connector in that lower right pin (at least on mine there isn't). I think I've got that one done right, I must not have a good ground on that parking break wire. One day when I get a break from both my jobs, I'll get back in there and use all this good information.

[ducatiboy]

Ok...yet another question from the "installation impaired": When that cell phone mute wire is grounded in that pin, you mention a metal tang...are you referring to the connector, or the metal pins the connector seats in on the back of the HU?

 

I'm really bad at my descriptive powers, I use a lot of "thing-ies" sometimes.

 

Anyway.

 

Normally connector 1 and 2 plug into the back of the Avic HU.

 

When you remove that connector (either one), there are a dozen wires that come out of the back of that connector (made out of white plastic). Those wires actually have metal terminals crimped on to the ends of them. Those metal terminals are the female end which actually make contact with the pins on the HU itself. The metal terminals on the end of the wires have a "tang" which sticks up a bit. The connector itself is plastic and has square holes in it. You take a bare wire, crimp on a metal terminal on the end of it, then insert that terminal and wire combination into the square hole in the connector. Then when all the wires are inserted into the connector, that connector is ready to plug into the back of the HU.

 

The tang is on the terminal, it's used to "snap into place" into the connector itself which will hold the wire/terminal combination into the connector. There is a plastic arm/holder which flexes up, when you insert the wire and terminal (terminal end first) into the connector, the plastic arm (built into the connector itself) will lift up a bit over the tang and then when the terminal is inserted far enough the arm snaps back down and holds the terminal into place and the metal tang built into the terminal keeps the terminal in the connector.

 

Make sense?