thread Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 [quote name="dionga"] Nice, I used your DIY for the LED tails and rear fog so I have that printed out. Thanks for the help. Dustin[/quote] I'll do a DIY for this kind of install then. Sounds like it's needed. Only difference is that I've got the DIETZ can adapter so I get everything like speed pulse, lighting, parking brake, backup light, and steering wheel controls through it. But, it's $300 and we're still working out how to get the track forward and back buttons working since the MFD has to be in radio mode for those to work. Basically the DIETZ unit has to fake being a can enabled radio. This is one of the reasons I'm getting the Z1. I hate the D1 track ahead and back "button" it's hard to get accurate when the car is moving. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raddd Posted July 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmMKV!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dionga Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 [quote name="thread"] [quote name="dionga"] Nice, I used your DIY for the LED tails and rear fog so I have that printed out. Thanks for the help. Dustin[/quote] I'll do a DIY for this kind of install then. Sounds like it's needed. Only difference is that I've got the DIETZ can adapter so I get everything like speed pulse, lighting, parking brake, backup light, and steering wheel controls through it. But, it's $300 and we're still working out how to get the track forward and back buttons working since the MFD has to be in radio mode for those to work. Basically the DIETZ unit has to fake being a can enabled radio. This is one of the reasons I'm getting the Z1. I hate the D1 track ahead and back "button" it's hard to get accurate when the car is moving.[/quote] Wonder if prices will come down on the adapters :shock: Enfig had one coming out(maybe this is it) and it was priced like that I heard. Too steep for me to justify at this point. I assume that I will have to tap the fuse panel for switched power? Constant should be at the harness. On a side note, just realized that my "retained power" has never worked. everything shuts off when I pull the key, not when the door opens as it did on my MK IV. :? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 [quote name="dionga"] Wonder if prices will come down on the adapters :shock: Enfig had one coming out(maybe this is it) and it was priced like that I heard. Too steep for me to justify at this point. I assume that I will have to tap the fuse panel for switched power? Constant should be at the harness. On a side note, just realized that my "retained power" has never worked. everything shuts off when I pull the key, not when the door opens as it did on my MK IV. :?[/quote] Yep, it's the ENFIG one. I'm testing it for Christian. It DOES make retained power work though which is cool. Radio stays on until you pull out the key. Switched power can be tapped at position 45 on the fuse panel on the side of the dash. Double check it with a multimeter first though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 It's in! Ducatiboys mod works like a champ. Only caveat is tha ton the VWs, if you stop at ACC for a bit and then crank the switched power shuts off and on quickly and the ducati thing does not catch it. So, just go from off the crank and you're good. Another issue I need to look into more tomorrow is that the unit is not sensing when the backup light is on. I've tested the connection with the multimeter and when the car is in reverse there is about 4 v going through it and when it's not in reverse no voltage is going through it so I'm kinda confused. Well, unless i's expecting 12v but, that seems odd. Overall this thing rocks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 [quote name="thread"]Ducatiboys mod works like a champ. Only caveat is tha ton the VWs, if you stop at ACC for a bit and then crank the switched power shuts off and on quickly and the ducati thing does not catch it. So, just go from off the crank and you're good..[/quote] To be honest, that shouldn't be necessary. If you want to debug a little or whatever, you can email me at one of these [url=http://www.sminntech.com/contact.html]http://www.sminntech.com/contact.html[/url] or through PM's whatever you are more comfortable. Generally if you wire the red wire from my circuit to the same exact red wire from the Z1, if the power drops out to make the Z1 restart, then it should make my circuit reset as well. But as you start working with electronics and all sorts of other vehicles out there, I noticed how different they can be. I recently found someone with a 2003 Chevy which when he cranks his engine, the Z1 did not reset, but my circuit did. Very werid. If we nail down a bit of the timing, I can at least try to make something custom for you so that you woudln't have to turn the car on to crank so quickly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 I've got a multimeter, what would you like to try? Jus verifying that your circuit sends a flash pulse down the ILL wire to the HU when I go from acc to crank? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 [quote name="thread"]I've got a multimeter, what would you like to try? Jus verifying that your circuit sends a flash pulse down the ILL wire to the HU when I go from acc to crank?[/quote] You are sure the red wire from my circuit is connected directly to the red wire out of the Z1 right? Well, you say when you turn the car on and wait, then crank the engine, the flasher doesn't bypass things right? Does the Z1 reset when you crank over the engine? Find out if the flasher circuit does, watch the orange output of my circuit with a meter. See what happens on my circuit's boot up. Turn on the car, the output should be 0v for 1 second, then 12V for 5 seconds, then flicker a bit over one more second, then ground after that. Crank over the engine, does the Z1 reset? Does my circuit go through this cycle again? Or is the output from my circuit 0v after that? I'm working on a slight modification for my circuit for these issues. So far you are the second person who has had any issue like this, but I'm sure I can come up with something. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 [quote name="ducatiboy"] You are sure the red wire from my circuit is connected directly to the red wire out of the Z1 right?[/quote] Yep, unless I misinterpreted the diagram it goes something like this. Red wire from car connected to red wire from your circuit and the red wire from the Z1 [quote name="ducatiboy"]Well, you say when you turn the car on and wait, then crank the engine, the flasher doesn't bypass things right?[/quote] Correct. [quote name="ducatiboy"]Does the Z1 reset when you crank over the engine?[/quote] Ye, you got it. [quote name="ducatiboy"]Find out if the flasher circuit does, watch the orange output of my circuit with a meter. See what happens on my circuit's boot up. Turn on the car, the output should be 0v for 1 second, then 12V for 5 seconds, then flicker a bit over one more second, then ground after that.[/quote] That's exactly what it does if I just go right to crank and don't allow the Z1 to boot up while it's in ACC. That's also what happens if I just go to ACC and stay there. [quote name="ducatiboy"]Crank over the engine, does the Z1 reset? Does my circuit go through this cycle again? Or is the output from my circuit 0v after that?[/quote] Nope, it stays at zero. [quote name="ducatiboy"]I'm working on a slight modification for my circuit for these issues. So far you are the second person who has had any issue like this, but I'm sure I can come up with something.[/quote] There's bugs in everything that eventually get worked out so no worries. One other interesting thing happened after installing it and driving around last night. When I'd put the car in ACC or start it the Z1 would think the illumintaion wire was hot even hen it was not and the lights were off. Pulling the constant fuse cleared. And, remember I mentioned my backup was not being seen by the Z1? Well, when the harness not conneted to the Z1 and the car in reverse the voltage on the wire was just under 12v where I'd expect it to be. If I plugged it into the Z1 the voltage was only 3.5. So, I tapped directly into the reverse wire instead of the one provided by the Dietz CAN adapter and now it works fine. Oh, and vehicle dynamics isn't working despite speed pulse working. I rarely used it with the D1 so I'm not overly concerned with it and maybe it just needs more time to calibrate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 Oh, and it's in :D [img]http://homepage.mac.com/cvervais/gli/z1/4.jpg[/img] I love how it matches the blurple of the VW and the bluetooth integration rocks and the iPod control is light years ahead of the D1s. [img]http://homepage.mac.com/cvervais/gli/z1/2.jpg[/img] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiboy Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 [quote name="thread"] [quote name="ducatiboy"] You are sure the red wire from my circuit is connected directly to the red wire out of the Z1 right?[/quote] Yep, unless I misinterpreted the diagram it goes something like this. Red wire from car connected to red wire from your circuit and the red wire from the Z1[/quote] Yah, that's right. Sometimes people will hook the red wire from the Z1 to the red wire on the radio harness, but then connect the red wire from my circuit to another 12v switched power supply which can cause issues. [quote name="thread"] [quote name="ducatiboy"]I'm working on a slight modification for my circuit for these issues. So far you are the second person who has had any issue like this, but I'm sure I can come up with something.[/quote] There's bugs in everything that eventually get worked out so no worries.[/quote] Ok, not only do I think I know what's going on, I think I can tweak my software to work with this. Of course your's has the "old" (or curent) software. I'll make some modifications, try it on my truck and send you something to switch it out for. If you don't mind taking your dash out again to put a different circuit in. [quote name="thread"]One other interesting thing happened after installing it and driving around last night. When I'd put the car in ACC or start it the Z1 would think the illumintaion wire was hot even hen it was not and the lights were off. Pulling the constant fuse cleared.[/quote] That's very weird. You are getting the ILL wire off the little add on device aren't you? If you are then I would bet it something to do with that device. If not, then I'm not sure what happened there, maybe something to do with the Z1? [quote name="thread"]And, remember I mentioned my backup was not being seen by the Z1? Well, when the harness not conneted to the Z1 and the car in reverse the voltage on the wire was just under 12v where I'd expect it to be. If I plugged it into the Z1 the voltage was only 3.5. So, I tapped directly into the reverse wire instead of the one provided by the Dietz CAN adapter and now it works fine.[/quote] This scares me about that Can adapter. It sounds like they can't supply enough current for the reverse sense wire or the Z1 requires WAY too much current. I know most people think in terms of voltage. It's 0V when off and 12V when it's on, but the supply has to be able to source enough current for whatever is reading it. If you read the can adapter with a multimeter, it requires VERY little current. Since the can adapter supplys very little, then it's fine. But it seems like the Z1 requires much more current to "read" the reverse signal than the can adapter supplys. If the current needed by the Z1 is more than the can adapter can supply the voltage will drop on it's output. That's probably what's happening. [quote name="thread"]Oh, and vehicle dynamics isn't working despite speed pulse working. I rarely used it with the D1 so I'm not overly concerned with it and maybe it just needs more time to calibrate.[/quote] It should work, I think it needs about 50 miles of calibration or so (maybe less, I never timed it). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 [quote name="ducatiboy"]Ok, not only do I think I know what's going on, I think I can tweak my software to work with this. Of course your's has the "old" (or curent) software. I'll make some modifications, try it on my truck and send you something to switch it out for. If you don't mind taking your dash out again to put a different circuit in.[/quote] Nah, I can get it apart in under 10 min. And the circuit is easy enough to switch out. I didn't use sauter on it until I was sure everything worked. [quote name="ducatiboy"]That's very weird. You are getting the ILL wire off the little add on device aren't you? If you are then I would bet it something to do with that device. If not, then I'm not sure what happened there, maybe something to do with the Z1?[/quote] I read it and the ILL had 0 voltage on it. So *shrug* [quote name="ducatiboy"]This scares me about that Can adapter. It sounds like they can't supply enough current for the reverse sense wire or the Z1 requires WAY too much current. I know most people think in terms of voltage. It's 0V when off and 12V when it's on, but the supply has to be able to source enough current for whatever is reading it. If you read the can adapter with a multimeter, it requires VERY little current. Since the can adapter supplys very little, then it's fine. But it seems like the Z1 requires much more current to "read" the reverse signal than the can adapter supplys. If the current needed by the Z1 is more than the can adapter can supply the voltage will drop on it's output. That's probably what's happening.[/quote] Yeah, the D1 would read the reverse input with just 3v on it. Guess the Z1 is just more picky. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
quikdub Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 got a buddy who is installing a z1 in a mkV GTI. the dash kit for the z1... is i commercially avail. will my auto guy be able to get one and the harness to allow power after the ignitoin is switched off (with key still inserted) if you can point me in the right direction it would be great. thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 [quote name="quikdub"]got a buddy who is installing a z1 in a mkV GTI. the dash kit for the z1... is i commercially avail. will my auto guy be able to get one and the harness to allow power after the ignitoin is switched off (with key still inserted) if you can point me in the right direction it would be great. thanks.[/quote] Dash Kit: [url=http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/VW_MK5_DASH_KIT.html]http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/s ... H_KIT.html[/url] The pocket slides out and then cut the bar to make it double din. Antenna Adapter: [url=http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/40_EU55.html]http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/s ... _EU55.html[/url] Harness: [url=http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/METRA_XSVI_9003.html]http://enfigcarstereo.com/shopsite_sc/s ... _9003.html[/url] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thread Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Day shots: [img]http://homepage.mac.com/cvervais/gli/z1/5.jpg[/img] [img]http://homepage.mac.com/cvervais/gli/z1/6.jpg[/img] [img]http://homepage.mac.com/cvervais/gli/z1/7.jpg[/img] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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