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have you checked to see what your voltage is @ the screens and do you have a low resistance at the grounds. could be getting a voltage drop when the bass hits. where is the power supply wires hooked up for the screens and the video booster. I have seen screens in the past that were not compatible with the hu and signal differences. what brand screens and booster did you add on?

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I was just looking back @ your post, my mistake for not asking what is your vehicle. as far as where I would hook up the extra monitors, in the past when I would add extra devices I would add a separate fused supply line @ the ign switch. now this works great except on some of the newer vehicles that use can/lan electronics. this is because the ign switches are lo current and go into bcm's which energizes relays to transfer the higher current needed. in this case I would suggest adding a separate fused relay triggered by the ign switch and the main power supply coming in on term #87 from the battery. fuse both the trigger ( term 86) as well as the hicurrent supply (term 87). the trigger will only need a small fuse 2-5 amp and the hi current @ a rating that will supply enough current to the monitors and the signal booster, you will need to read the specs on those components. Good luck

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as for warranty DO NOT let anyone tell you your warranty is void due to your add ons. the only way it would void it is if a repair needs to be made and it CAN be proven that something you did caused the fault. most people get this pulled on them because they don't know about the Magnuson= moss act. I have posted it below so you can print out a copy and keep it in your receipt file. therefore IF you need to add this relay to you monitors its not a big deal or a difficult installation add on. I am sorry that I have not had any experiance with the honda, maybe someone else here can chime in on the ign switch being a hi current or low current switch. in fact you may be able to tell me, if you drop the knee bolster panel to access the switch wires, are the heavy gauge or tiny wires ( 18-22 ga). if they are heavy (12-16 ga) then just add a separate fused lead for the added devices. if small then a relay will be needed. you could test this need for current easily, get to where the extral monitors are tied into your system, disconnect your splice, take a jumper lead and connect it to these monitors/ video amp, temp hook up at the battery and test to see if this helps. it is just as important to have a good lo resistance ground as well. good luck

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE TRUTH:

 

Most vehicle owners are not aware they are protected by federal law: the Magnuson-Moss Warranty – Federal Trade Commission Improvement Act of 1975. Under the Magnuson-Moss Act, aftermarket equipment which improves performance does not void a vehicle manufacturer’s original warranty, unless the warranty clearly and conspicuously states that aftermarket equipment voids the warranty. Most states have warranty statutes, as well. Which provide further protections for vehicle owners.

 

In other words, that means a dealer can’t wiggle out of his legal warranty obligation merely because you install aftermarket equipment. To find out if any aftermarket equipment automatically voids your vehicle’s warranty, check the owner’s manual. It is likely the language you are looking for appears under a heading such as “What Is Not Covered†Although the language seems negative, remember your vehicle manufacturer is simply saying he does not cover the aftermarket products themselves. He is not saying that the products would void the vehicle warranty.

 

VEHICLE DEALERS OBLIGATIONS:

 

Suppose your modified vehicle needs repairs while still under warranty. Without analyzing the true cause of the problem, the dealer attempts to deny warranty coverage. He made his decision simply based on the fact that you’ve installed aftermarket equipment – a convenient way to dodge low-paying warranty work.

 

An example of how ridiculous this can get is the man who was denied warranty coverage by a dealer on his power door locks, because he had improved his exhaust system! Sounds nuts? It really happened – because that man did not know his rights and challenge the dealer’s decision.

 

Fact: A dealer must prove – not just say – that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before he can deny warranty coverage on that basis.

 

YOUR RIGHTS:

 

Point out to the dealer the provision of the Magnuson-Moss Act- Require that he explain to you how the aftermarket equipment caused the problem. If he can’t – or his explanation sounds questionable – it is your legal right to demand he comply with the warranty.

 

Fact: If you are still being unfairly denied warranty coverage, there is recourse. The Federal Trade Commission, which administers the Magnuson-Moss Act, monitors compliance with warranty issues. Direct complaints to the FTC at (202) 326-3128. For "The Businesspersons Guide to Federal Warranty Law" and the full requirements of the Magnuson-Moss Act, visit the FTC's web site by clicking here.

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yea, im not TOO worried about the warrenty, I just dont wanna mess around too much with the electrical, adding things on to the new vehicle. I work at T&T HONDA in the service dept, as a service writer so I can just make things warrenty if I have to haha. Warrenty is not voided unless the problem is related to the aftermarket parts that were installed by other partys. eg. if I installed an exhaust on my vehicle and my transmission blows while im in my warrenty period, its still covered, but if I was to modify the electrical for any reason, and my blinkers dont work anymore, and honda is to diagnose and find out that I modified the wiring, then it wouldnt be covered. But even though I have the advantage with the warrenty, I still dont want to mess around too much with the vehicle's electrical, electrical's NEVER been my thing haha, bad experiences! : )

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ok, i get it. I'm just trying to let you know what it takes sometimes with todays newer vehicles. anyway since you work at the dealer I would go back to your electrical tech ( especially if he's not against aftermarket stuff, I know some of them say "oh no not that crap"). he would be able to tell you if the ign switch is capable of handling the extra load. like I said before the switch needs to be able to handle the load. I think that whoever did your work probably took all the power wires and tied them together behind the radio, the problem is that the circuit is only capable of handling a certain load and you may be close to overloading it. Have you tried talking to whoever did your install about this problem or did you do the work yourself?

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xsdbs...that is NOT the Magnuson/Moss Act. That is someone's interpretation of the Act. And it's just one lawyer's interpretation. The factory could have another. Your intent is good...but not inclusive. His sound system warranty is void...that should be a given. Honda (or any manufacturer) will not...nor should they...warranty a system they didn't build and deliver. So if, for example, a speaker blows, it would be wrong to try and have Honda pay for it if you are using a different head unit, amp, etc. However, if his window regulator breaks, then that should have nothing to do with his install and should and would be covered. If the electrical system has issues, that's a gray area that MIGHT be contributed to the install and would require the dealer to prove the problem. However, just splicing into one circuit that is not designed to be spliced into can and will void a lot of warranty issues. Again, you are asking them to pay for something they didn't design and deliver. Basically, all they have to say is it failed because this circuit was compromised in a way it was never designed. Your case is now very, very weak.

 

The OP's example of installing performance exhaust and having the transmission fail is also a gray area. Since the exhaust "tunes" the engine differently than delivered, they can...and manufacturers have successfully defended...deny warranty on the trans. You must be extremely careful of the modifications you make as to warranty issues. The manufacturers have a ton of precedence and VERY expensive lawyers to defend their case. And arbitrators tend to fall on the side of the manufacturer since we are now dealing with a non-stock vehicle. And by the way, Honda/Acura is one of the tightest manufacturers I have ever run across when it comes to warranty issues.

 

My family owned Ford and GM dealerships for many years. Also, as the owner of a modified 2004 Cobra, I am extremely familiar with Magnuson/Moss and what the factory will and will not warranty. Just the simple addition of a ECM flash voids the entire drivetrain warranty. And they know how to tell if it was flashed, and then replaced with the original programming. A friendly dealer is your best bet for warranty in these cases, but remember...he gets audited by the factory once a year. If they don't agree with him, they charge him back for the warranty payment. This can be months after the work was completed and they have no recourse against the owner. That makes it VERY expensive to the dealer to work outside the box when it comes to warranty.

 

In the OP's case, I would install a complete and separate power supply system. I would try and find a factory approved accessory or power terminal and go from there. I would not tap into the factory harness anywhere if I could avoid it. This SHOULD ensure warranty compliance and also eliminate many other problems and drivability issues that can arise from tapping into the innappropriate circuit. This may be overkill, but it can save you big dollars. After all, it doesn't take much for an electrical troubleshooting job to amount to hundreds of dollars if they find your installation is the cause of the problem.

 

One HUGE misconception of the Magnusen/Moss Act is that it is intended to cover issues such as this. It was never intended for that...although the final version does include this in some fashion. It all started when someone changed their spark plugs from AC plugs to Champion plugs and the dealer denied warranty when the engine failed because he wasn't using the factory spark plugs. It was ludicrous. The Act was designed to protect consumers who used factory equivilant parts such as oil filters, air filters, spark plugs, etc. Not to cover things such as this and other performance enhancing modifications. So although this type of modification is indeed inclusive of Magnuson/Moss, it wasn't the original intent.

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if it only happens when the bass hits, one of the problems you might be experiencing is a transient voltage drop... First i would make sure your wiring is optimal (right gauge connected directly to the battery if possible)... then if you still have the transient problem, you could try a large stiffening cap on your sub and or amps.... This could significantly help your transient response for your music as well as significantly lessening the transient draw from your electrical system.... thereby, fixing your problem with the monitors....

 

just my 2c.

 

P.S. also, i would add-up all the draw from all those components and make sure you have enough head room!!!

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