jbsengineer Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Is there a problem with tapping into the 12 memory wire coming from the factory harness for all of the extras like Sirius, bluetooth etc? Would it be to much draw? Also do the Sirius tuner and the Bluetooth box need the memory wire or the switched wire? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nero004 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 you shouldnt have any problems tapping into the factory 12v wire off of the harness. to be on the safe side you could also tap into the fuse box if it is easier. make sure evrything is fused seperately tho. i think bluetooth catches power off of th IP bus cable if im not mistaken, nd the sirius takes constant power. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbsengineer Posted November 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 you shouldnt have any problems tapping into the factory 12v wire off of the harness. to be on the safe side you could also tap into the fuse box if it is easier. make sure evrything is fused seperately tho. i think bluetooth catches power off of th IP bus cable if im not mistaken, nd the sirius takes constant power. Got the BT adapter in today and it needs a power connect. It doesn't get power from the IP Bus. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MisFit Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 they all take constant power and you can get them all at the head unit. no problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nero004 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 really, which bluetooth did u get. ???. neways it should say it in the instructions then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbsengineer Posted November 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 really, which bluetooth did u get. ???. neways it should say it in the instructions then. The BTB200. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MisFit Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 the only bluetooth that doesnt need power is the nd-bt1. and it doesnt use an ip bus cable either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nero004 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 ^^ correct. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
newyorican187 Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 you shouldnt have any problems tapping into the factory 12v wire off of the harness. to be on the safe side you could also tap into the fuse box if it is easier. make sure evrything is fused seperately tho. i think bluetooth catches power off of th IP bus cable if im not mistaken, nd the sirius takes constant power. What's up all? Newbie here. All the posts here have been a great help in installing my new AVIC D3. I Have a couple or questions... (1) Would you use the yellow (hot) wire, or the red (switched) wire to power the bluetooth? (2) Can I use the ground from the harness to ground the Bluetooth as well? (3) The instructions for the AVIC D3 say to ground the HU directly to the vehicle chassis...should I use a self-tapper to drill into the chassis where the radio sits or can I use the Ground from the wiring harness? Also if I ground both the BT and the HU together, will there be any kind of noise or interference? Thanks up front for any help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HiFiSi Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 (1) Would you use the yellow (hot) wire, or the red (switched) wire to power the bluetooth? Use the constant power wire. The units turn on via a signal through the IPBUS cable. And if the power to the bluetooth unit wasn't constant, it would reset every time it powered off. (2) Can I use the ground from the harness to ground the Bluetooth as well? (3) The instructions for the AVIC D3 say to ground the HU directly to the vehicle chassis...should I use a self-tapper to drill into the chassis where the radio sits or can I use the Ground from the wiring harness? Also if I ground both the BT and the HU together, will there be any kind of noise or interference? Ground both the bluetooth unit and the D3 to the chassis (as well as the mute and parking brake wires if you're doing the bypass) all at the same point. Using the same ground for different components LOWERS the chance for electrical noise. Plus, it's a better ground than a lot of the harness grounds found on factory setups. You can either use a self tapping screw (be sure there's nething behind what you're screwing through) or find an existing bolt or screw into the body that you could use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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