You are the man Steve. I hope a more definitive test proves out. I also find it interesting that you have the same pin with the same properties on the old unit, but it doesn't work. May be something with the brake wire?

I'm still not done with that Acura deal we talked about. I haven't had time to do much more with it. When I do, I'll have you build me a circuit and give it a try.

I was working on a web site to help walk though knowing which bypass you need. I tried the new bypass on my older unit and it did not work, so older ones seem to need the flasher, newer ones seem to need just the grounded wires. What do you think of this page?

http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html

Any feedback would be nice.

Looks good to me.

-Litos

ducatiboy said:

Here is something interesting. This bypass DOES NOT work with my March 06 unit... just my July 06 unit. The March 06 unit comes up with a "hey the parking brake is installed incorrectly" message in about 20 feet of motion. The July 06 unit let me drive around for 15 miles. The VSS wire and internal sensors initialized and put me into 3d hybrid. All the while with Blazing Saddles on the dvd player. I can't say that some time in the future this might not work. But it seems like the way to go. What's weird is that it doesn't work on the old units. Guess my circuit is still needed after all.

Interesting...

Does that pin on your March 06 unit has +5V while not connected? Any signal differences on those 4 pins between March 06 and July 06?

ducatiboy, where can I get the contacts to put in that header. It looks like 2mm pitch, but the only 2mm pitch contacts I have don't fit. Thanks... and thanks for finding this sweet bypass.

Nevermind, I re-read your original post. I'll use the same cell mute wire.

Sevkatia said:

Interesting...

Does that pin on your March 06 unit has +5V while not connected? Any signal differences on those 4 pins between March 06 and July 06?

I don't know, I didn't test that. I should have, but I had the wiring all done up. And it was late and I was tired and I had something working with the new units. I focused more on the new unit and less on trying to get my older one working.

vtron said:

ducatiboy, where can I get the contacts to put in that header. It looks like 2mm pitch, but the only 2mm pitch contacts I have don't fit. Thanks... and thanks for finding this sweet bypass.

I put the info on my web site (at the bottom):
http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html

I took out my cell phone mute wire from connector 1 and stuck it in to connector 2, same pitch, same contacts.

vtron said:

Nevermind, I re-read your original post. I'll use the same cell mute wire.

Ah, you just beat me to it :)

From the web site:
Personally I took the "cell phone mute" wire out of "connector 1" by taking a
jewlers screw driver and lift up on the white plastic connector part just behind the "metal tang"
in the connector. Some times with these connectors, you push on the metal tang to get the wire out,
with these connectors, lift up on the plastic tang retainer, don't push down on the tang.
It's much easier. I then inserted the cell phone mute wire into this position and grounded it.

Pardon me for asking, but what is the original intention of the cell phone mute wire if hooked up as per Pioneer's intentions?

-Litos

DJ Machismo said:

Pardon me for asking, but what is the original intention of the cell phone mute wire if hooked up as per Pioneer's intentions?

-Litos

I believe that if you have an cell phone speaker phone (one of the older kinds that were not integrated into the head unit, before bluetooth became popular) when the phone would ring this external speaker phone would send a signal to the head unit to tell it to mute the radio.

Seems like it's worthless with the z1, since it has bluetooth for cell phones (with the adapter). But what if you have an old non-bluetooth cell phone and you have a speaker phone system that does not play though the car, but it's a module on the dash or something? This would have a wire you can hook to the cell phone mute wire and it would mute the audio when you got a call and wanted to use this "external" speaker phone setup.

A buddy of mine has one of these for his older non-bluetooth cell phone.

DB, you are correct. I had an older Motorola hands-free kit before I upgraded to a Treo 650 and that didn't use Bluetooth. It had a mute output to go to the radio to mute it when a call was received.

I'll certainly give this a try when I get home tonight, though actually grounding it securely will be a bit tricky, as my buds have all the soldering/hookup stuff, but I'll find something.

I'll let you know how it goes on my unit and if we can confirm it for sure.

-Litos

I'll see if I can help my friend do this on his. I assume that the manufacture date is easy to find? I don't have a Z1 yet, so I don't know.

ducatiboy said:

DJ Machismo said:

Pardon me for asking, but what is the original intention of the cell phone mute wire if hooked up as per Pioneer's intentions?

-Litos

I believe that if you have an cell phone speaker phone (one of the older kinds that were not integrated into the head unit, before bluetooth became popular) when the phone would ring this external speaker phone would send a signal to the head unit to tell it to mute the radio.

Seems like it's worthless with the z1, since it has bluetooth for cell phones (with the adapter). But what if you have an old non-bluetooth cell phone and you have a speaker phone system that does not play though the car, but it's a module on the dash or something? This would have a wire you can hook to the cell phone mute wire and it would mute the audio when you got a call and wanted to use this "external" speaker phone setup.

A buddy of mine has one of these for his older non-bluetooth cell phone.

It is for that, but it can also be used with an external Bluetooth unit, such as the one that Parrot makes.

sportsfan21 said:

It is for that, but it can also be used with an external Bluetooth unit, such as the one that Parrot makes.

True Parrot makes some bluetooth units, but the ones I have seen from parrot cut the speakers anyway, so I don't know if it's needed on a parrot. But yes, it's not limited to non-bluetooth cell phone units. Some out there might not be able to be integrated into the car's wiring and have a signal out to mute the radio. It's for that. With all/most of use using the built in bluetooth, that cell phone mute wire seemed like a good choice to yank out.

jaroth said:

I'll see if I can help my friend do this on his. I assume that the manufacture date is easy to find? I don't have a Z1 yet, so I don't know.

It's printed on the box it came on (on the out side of the box) and it's on the serial number sticker on the top of the unit. It will give you a month and a year right on the box.

ducatiboy said:

I was working on a web site to help walk though knowing which bypass you need. I tried the new bypass on my older unit and it did not work, so older ones seem to need the flasher, newer ones seem to need just the grounded wires. What do you think of this page?

http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html

Any feedback would be nice.

Don't worry if your screen doesn't look EXACTLY like this one. In the picutre above, the right 2 buttons (Route Overview and Cancel Route) are grayed out and the other 8 are available. If you have not let the Z1 calculate a route yet, your Destination History button would be grayed out

Steve, all you have to do is press the 2nd hard button marked "V".
If the Z1 is bypassed it will bring up a Picture adjustment screen.
When it's NOT bypassed then this button is disabled.

The Mute wire is required to be hooked up if you have Onstar and want Onstar to continue to communicate via the speakers and mute the music.
For my application, I had to connect the Mute wire to the Peripheral adapter that was designed for GM Onstar applications. When I hit the Onstar button, the radio mutes, and I can talk on Onstar via the Onstar Mic, which I might add had no ECHO. However, due to extreme alternator whine, the Onstar phone is worthless unless the engine is off.

While I think DB has worked hard on this by pass I think we are forgetting the two who started this. PAC Tech and Tech12volt got all this started. It is even Tech12volt’s picture that is posted here. I think we also need to say they to are stand up guys with out :roll: then This fix,if it turns out to work, would not have been found.

twill said:

While I think DB has worked hard on this by pass I think we are forgetting the two who started this. PAC Tech and Tech12volt got all this started. It is even Tech12volt’s picture that is posted here. I think we also need to say they to are stand up guys with out :roll: then This fix,if it turns out to work, would not have been found.

Who started this? No one had any information and I went out and bought one just to see if I can find this.

I'm all for thanking people who needed to be thanked... but if others had information, I wish they would have shared. Those guys did not help me at all.

Where is Tech12volt's picture? The one here
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1593
and are you mean it's the same as this one?
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 92&start=4

I took those pictures! I sent the one (with the crappy arrow) in the link above to this guy. I had already found what to do where, when I found his auction on ebay. I contacted him to see if his ideas were going to validate my own. He replied with "you need to ground one of the unused pins but I don't know which one". I already had the picture taken and edited in photoshop with the arrows. I told him to take that picture forware and share it.

If you notice the time on those posts, I posed mine before he posted his. I made the one he posted first and then emailed him the one with the prettier arrow.

And I love the PAC guys. They make some great stuff. I emailed them asking them for information and they said "We are aware of this issue and are currently trying to find the fix. Be patient as these things take time." They didn't help me either. This was the post where they were talking about:
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1590
Well that was exactly what I was looking into before they posted this.
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1570
I was in the D2 forums exploring the same thing. I just didn't tell people my plans cause no one contacted me saying they were working on it and until I had something more concrete I didn't want to get people's hopes up.

It's very possible that one of these guys would have found this without me. Who knows, maybe someone knew what needed to be done and didn't share it with anyone. I'm not saying that I'm the only one who could have found this. But those guys did not help me at all. If other people had information it would have been nice for them to share with me.... since I had to do this on my own.

Ok to get back on topic. This DOES work with my July 06 unit. I hooked it up with the Cell Phone Mute wire as instructed and grounded it. I also have my parking brake wire hooked up to a switch that is grounded.

After resetting the unit, everything was unlocked. I tried turning off my vehicle at red lights and restarting the car, after it booted back up it worked the same way, still bypassed.

Also, I found that when the parking brake switch I had put in is flipped to "off", meaning the pbrake is not connected, the bypass goes away. As soon as the switch is flipped to "on", everything is bypassed again.

So all in all, works great on my system and I hope others have just as much luck as I did with this, and of course thanks a million to everyone that put in effort, especially ducatiboy in my opinion.

-Litos

Ducatiboy, nothing can beat buying a $1500+ piece of equipment just to see if you can help us all out. You know you are king here with us!!! Not just for the first bypass but for all your posts and contributions to this awesome forum!

I appreciate everyone who contributes, not just for the bypass (most important though) but for all information.

Thanks everyone!!!!

BTW, my results verify ducatiboy's original one: I'm half-way to Florida from Atlanta, and I can change routes, play the DVD, etc, and it's not sending up warnings about the parking brake, and it's been working for a couple hundred miles.

One thing - I never used my July 06 model before installing it with this mod today, so I'm wondering: do non-bypassed units give the warning screen saying to click OK "when you're pulled over and the parking break is engaged?" I can just hit the OK button while driving with no problems. Is this the same screen the non-bypassed units see? If so, I assume on non-bypassed units that you can't hit OK?

ducatiboy said:

If other people had information it would have been nice for them to share with me.... since I had to do this on my own.

This is true - although I shared rumors of the four open pins with ducatiboy yesterday morning, he's the one who bought a whole other unit for testing (at his own expense - he already had a unit that worked with his own bypass circuit!), detected the 5V and grounded that pin, took the picture and then drove it around for miles to make sure it worked, all for the community. This should definitely be commended. Thanks, ducatiboy.

-Craig

udecker said:

One thing - I never used my July 06 model before installing it with this mod today, so I'm wondering: do non-bypassed units give the warning screen saying to click OK "when you're pulled over and the parking break is engaged?" I can just hit the OK button while driving with no problems. Is this the same screen the non-bypassed units see? If so, I assume on non-bypassed units that you can't hit OK?

There are 2 disclaimer screens and an incorrect parking brake screen. The parking brake warning, you shoudln't see. There are 2 other disclaimer screens. One is every time you try to play a dvd and you have to hit ok. The other is the first time you access the nav when you start the vehicle. Both of these still show up bypassed or not and you can hit ok when moving. This happens when the units are bypassed or not. As far as I can tell you can't get rid of those 2 disclaimer screens. But the nav one you should only see the first time you start the vehicle when you access the nav and the other I think every time you try to play a dvd. But those are normal and can't be gotten rid of.

I can also verify DB's bypass works great. Installed this evening and after a 20 min drive, The Usual Suspects was still playing. I have the Bypass pin and parking break wires hooked to a DPDT switch. When the bypass is engaged, everything works great. With the bypass switched off, it works as intended from Pioneer (i.e. crippled without the parking break applied). Thanks again for taking the time to figure this out.

No credit at all for this one? That sucks!