how do you actually get the file, edit it and get it back into the unit?

I pulled my mute wire out of the harness with no problem. When I went to insert it in slot 4, it got stuck and would not go any farther. I pulled it out again and the metal connector at the end of the wire was bent. I tried to bend it back and it broke off. Crap!

Now I have a naked mute wire and no way to attach it to the pin. I need another female pin connector to attach to the end of the mute wire. does anyone know where I can get one of these small metal connectors that slide into the white harness without having to buy a whole new wiring assembly from Pioneer?

Thanks,

Kyle

I pulled my mute wire out of the harness with no problem. When I went to insert it in slot 4, it got stuck and would not go any farther. I pulled it out again and the metal connector at the end of the wire was bent. I tried to bend it back and it broke off. Crap!

 

Now I have a naked mute wire and no way to attach it to the pin. I need another female pin connector to attach to the end of the mute wire. does anyone know where I can get one of these small metal connectors that slide into the white harness without having to buy a whole new wiring assembly from Pioneer?

 

Thanks,

 

Kyle

radio shack. You may need to buy a small package that has a plug in it, then remove a wire from that plug, then remove the pin..from that wire. Or cut and splice that wire to the wire in the avic harness..so you wont risk messing up the pin on your radio shack wire. But radio shack definitely can help you

Hey guys another newb to the forum here. I just bought an AVIC F90BT and installed it trying the hardware hack. I moved the mute wire just like shown in the pics and soldered it to the ground wire coming out of the deck. I also soldered the PB wire to the ground wire coming out of the deck. I thought that was it, but as soon as I hit around 10 mph I get a error like a lot of other users saying the PB wire is not connected correctly. My unit has firmware 2.0. I know how to solder (used to be an installer, but haven't done indash nav or anything when I was an installer). Is there something I am missing?

Brian

ground the wires separately especially the pb wire, attach it to the frame or something.

It detects if you have them wired togeather. I have to do mine as well.

ground the wires separately especially the pb wire, attach it to the frame or something.

 

It detects if you have them wired togeather. I have to do mine as well.

Hardware Bypass only ..

CAn anyone confirm if the wires have to be grounded seperatly ?

I have my wires all hoked up to the main harness ground , should this work . I did move the mute wire etc ..

Thanks

The mute and parking brake wires DO need to be grounded separately. You can attach one of these to the main harness ground, but the other needs to be grounded separately.

ground the wires separately especially the pb wire, attach it to the frame or something.

 

It detects if you have them wired togeather. I have to do mine as well.

Mine are soldered together and I have no issues. YMMV.

Ground is ground. It doesn't matter if they are separate or together. Mine are all grounded together on both my D3 and F90BT with no issue.

Ground is ground. It doesn't matter if they are separate or together. Mine are all grounded together on both my D3 and F90BT with no issue.

+1

Ground is ground, it all goes the same place, you can connect the 2 together and then ground them.

The mute and parking brake wires DO need to be grounded separately. You can attach one of these to the main harness ground, but the other needs to be grounded separately.

Complete bull.

Wire it however you want...

I wired mine separately when testing and had no errors, but for final install, I wired them together because it was neater for final install, then I got the faulty wiring error. I then talked to an electronics technologist and asked him. He said that it would be very easy to have a device detect if they were wired together.

I have not yet gone back and redone the wiring. Will let you know if the warning goes away.

I may be wrong, but others have mentioned the same experience and how much work is it really to wire them separately?

Up to you.

Wire it however you want...

 

I wired mine separately when testing and had no errors, but for final install, I wired them together because it was neater for final install, then I got the faulty wiring error. I then talked to an electronics technologist and asked him. He said that it would be very easy to have a device detect if they were wired together.

 

I have not yet gone back and redone the wiring. Will let you know if the warning goes away.

 

I may be wrong, but others have mentioned the same experience and how much work is it really to wire them separately?

 

Up to you.

That would be fine if it wasn't nonsense, the car has a single ground point, no matter what part of the car you connect those 2 lines to, they're connected to the same ground, this is why you have hoards of us telling you that it doesn't matter.

Yes a device could tell if you used the same ground, but the point is, all grounds in the car are the same ground! There's no physical way to wire them to seperate grounds, more then enough people here have confirmed that tying the two lines together should and will work fine.

Diane

Wire it however you want...

 

I wired mine separately when testing and had no errors, but for final install, I wired them together because it was neater for final install, then I got the faulty wiring error. I then talked to an electronics technologist and asked him. He said that it would be very easy to have a device detect if they were wired together.

 

I have not yet gone back and redone the wiring. Will let you know if the warning goes away.

 

I may be wrong, but others have mentioned the same experience and how much work is it really to wire them separately?

 

Up to you.

That would be fine if it wasn't nonsense, the car has a single ground point, no matter what part of the car you connect those 2 lines to, they're connected to the same ground, this is why you have hoards of us telling you that it doesn't matter.

 

Yes a device could tell if you used the same ground, but the point is, all grounds in the car are the same ground! There's no physical way to wire them to seperate grounds, more then enough people here have confirmed that tying the two lines together should and will work fine.

 

Diane

For this situation it is clearly bunk.

However, there is some need to have a big enough ground wire depending on the source being grounded. THat is why the car's engine has zero gauge ground to chassis. (Or is this crazy?)

the car has a single ground point, no matter what part of the car you connect those 2 lines to, they're connected to the same ground

 

 

tying the two lines together "should" work fine.

 

Diane

This is what I thought too and why I connected mine together even after I read about the problem.

If it is the case, why the error on the unit about grounding?

 

This is what I thought too and why I connected mine together even after I read about the problem.

Listen, you did something wrong in your original wiring. Whatever that something was, it has nothing to do with connecting the two wires together before grounding them. I assure you it has nothing to do with any of the odd theories here about detecting the way the wire is connected. There is no circuitry in the AVICs to do that. It is true that not all grounds are equal in a car. In particular, there are usually clean and dirty grounds. In the case of the power ground for the AVIC, you need to use a clean ground, such as what was provided for the stock radio. Beyond that, it doesn't much matter. If it helps (it probably won't) this is the opinion of an electrical engineer, not a technician.

The only change in my wiring was the grounding.

If there is no method for detection... there would be no need for an error screen at all.

All my connections are clean, well connected, soldered and shrink tubed. I used the harness ground. Used a factory harness connector and all wiring is done according to wiring diagrams with color coding and labeling provided.

Did you design this unit or something? If so, I have a couple issues with it.

The only change in my wiring was the grounding.

 

If there is no method for detection... there would be no need for an error screen at all.

 

All my connections are clean, well connected, soldered and shrink tubed. I used the harness ground. Used a factory harness connector and all wiring is done according to wiring diagrams with color coding and labeling provided.

 

Did you design this unit or something? If so, I have a couple issues with it.

No, I didn't design it. I design ATMs. I had issues with it too, that's why I've looked into it. The circuit in the AVIC only detects if the wire is grounded or not, not how it is grounded. You and I both know it was there to detect if the parking brake was applied or not. The override input is for installs where that isn't required. Again, something else about your wiring was wrong. You are now superstitious about this grounding thing, no different than worrying about stepping on a crack.

Thanx... will have a look at it again.. possibly redo my ground.

Other than the error which is annoying, everything works fine.

This is what I thought too and why I connected mine together even after I read about the problem.

 

If it is the case, why the error on the unit about grounding?

If you're getting the error at 10MPH about being improperly grounded, that means that you have the parking line grounded correctly, but you didn't properly remove the mute wire and put it into it's new location, or didn't do the software bypass correctly.

You get this because the unit is smart enough to say "hey, the parking brake says you should be stopped, but the GPS says we're moving" and that would be the whole REASON for the software and hardware bypass.

Diane

Nope not at 10 mph.

Not when I start my vehicle either,

Before I leave my driveway.

Last time I saw It, I had plotted a route and just put it in drive. My vehicle had only moved a few inches.

Nope not at 10 mph.

Not when I start my vehicle either,

Before I leave my driveway.

 

Last time I saw It, I had plotted a route and just put it in drive. My vehicle had only moved a few inches.

But the key seems to be having it notice that it sees both the parking brake and the GPS (could also be VSS in F9x units)

The point is, it's a sign something in the install is hinky, not that they have to be grounded separately.

I was wondering if the VSS wire would play any part in this hardware bypass not working. I have the F90BT and hooked it up so it knows that I am moving. Does moving the mute wire disable something that tells it I'm moving? I haven't disconnected the VSS to try this, but I did ground my PB wire separately and I'm still having the problem. I thought that a ground was a ground, but figured that I would give it a try. I don't want to mess with the software aspect because I'm not a big computer person. Would just putting the PB on a switch work with the mute wire moved as well? I don't know if the PB wire looks for a positive signal before the ground or not. Any ideas?

No, it works correctly with VSS connected. Best guess is you didn't move the mute wire to the correct location, or didn't do the software bypass correctly. I have the F90BT. It works correctly.

I moved the mute wire just like the pic said to. I moved it from the first pin in the top row to the 4th in the bottom row. I didn't do the software bypass. I don't want to get into it unless I absolutely have to. I just don't understand why it works for some and not for others. Like I said in my first post I soldered both wires to my ground going to the factory harness and it didn't work. When I start moving and hit 10 mph I get the error saying that the PB wire isn't grounded properly.