What I did was cut the wires. If I remember correctly I cut the green wire and spliced it to the mute wire and soldered it... then I cut the end of the mute wire and crimped a U shaped end on to it , then grounded it to the frame of my truck with a bolt . Worked perfect!!
you guys rock!!! just installed avic-f90bt on my car with hardwire bypass and it works like a charm, thanks guys.
Hey guys, I'm installing my F900BT today, and I want to do the HW bypass, but I just read a post in the thread that made me think twice about it. He suggested using another wire from a computer harness for those that didn't want to "give up the mute wire" Does the HW bypass sacrifice some or all muting functionality when I move/ground the mute wire? e.g. will the system audio not mute when appropriate? e.g. (phone calls I assume). Also is there a tool recommended to remove the wire from the harness? I've been having some trouble getting it out of its original position.
can someone tell me how too show the buildings on the 900bt pioneer
can someone tell me how too show the buildings on the 900bt pioneer
you're in the wrong forum
Hey guys, I'm installing my F900BT today, and I want to do the HW bypass, but I just read a post in the thread that made me think twice about it. He suggested using another wire from a computer harness for those that didn't want to "give up the mute wire" Does the HW bypass sacrifice some or all muting functionality when I move/ground the mute wire? e.g. will the system audio not mute when appropriate? e.g. (phone calls I assume). Also is there a tool recommended to remove the wire from the harness? I've been having some trouble getting it out of its original position.
No, you won't lose any features. The mute wire has nothing to do with the kind of muting you're concerned about. Read the installation manual for details on what the mute wire is for.
As for removing the wire, it is a little tricky. I used a small eyeglass screwdriver, which allowed me to press on the plastic tab just enough to let me pull out the wire.
So I did the hardware bypass and it seems that about half of the time I get a caution message saying that the system detected an improper connection to the parking brake. BTW I have a F900BT and with the ver 2.0 update. I thought about also performing the software bypass but someone in another thread said that doing both bypass mods would result in a bricked unit.
ok in 11 pages of this forum i am unclear about the easiset way to bypass. Am I correct in saying that all I have to do is relocate the mute wire to the new location and I will be all set? if so whats all the talk about the parking brake wire being grounded? Did I miss somewhere where it was instructed to do this as well? I am getting my 90BT today and want to install when I get home in my 05 mustang. Any help is appreciated.
So I did the hardware bypass and it seems that about half of the time I get a caution message saying that the system detected an improper connection to the parking brake.
How did you ground the parking brake wire?
ok in 11 pages of this forum i am unclear about the easiset way to bypass. Am I correct in saying that all I have to do is relocate the mute wire to the new location and I will be all set? if so whats all the talk about the parking brake wire being grounded? Did I miss somewhere where it was instructed to do this as well? I am getting my 90BT today and want to install when I get home in my 05 mustang. Any help is appreciated.
You have to ground both the newly located mute wire and the parking brake wire.
so i take the yellow mute wire and connect it to the black ground leads? same for the mint green parking brake wire?
thanks for the help
so i take the yellow mute wire and connect it to the black ground leads? same for the mint green parking brake wire?
thanks for the help
You first must move the mute (yellow) wire to the proper, new position as described, than solder the newly moved mute wire and the parking brake wire together and cover with shrink wrap, then ground them to a location that has good grounding contact. At least that is how I did it.
so i take the yellow mute wire and connect it to the black ground leads? same for the mint green parking brake wire?
thanks for the help
You first must move the mute (yellow) wire to the proper, new position as described, than solder the newly moved mute wire and the parking brake wire together and cover with shrink wrap, then ground them to a location that has good grounding contact. At least that is how I did it.
I soldered the relocated yellow mute lead, the green parking lead and the black ground lead from the Pioneer HU together. These 3 leads were then soldered to vehicle's ground wire that went to the factory HU. If you use a harness adapter for your vehicle, these 3 leads will be connected to the black ground wire from the harness adapter.
This worked great for me.
I NEED HELP BIG TIME, I TRYED THE SOFTWARE CHANGE TO THE BYPASS, LOAD THE "data.zip, testmode and MITACAP" ON SD CARD AND FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS , WENT TO THE WINDOWS CE AND CHNAGED THE ORIGINAL DATA.ZIP FILE ON IGO, AND NOW I THE SOFTWARE DOESN'T WORK AT ALL, I MEAN WHEN I GOT THE UNIT ON GO THE PIONEER LOGO AND FOR A SECOND A MESSAGE SAYING IS SOME KIND THE PROBLEM WITH ORIGINAL PIONEER SOFTWARE, I DID TRY TO RELOAD THE NEW 2.0 SOFTWARE WITH NO LUCKY, I DO HAVE THE PARKING BREAK AND MUTE WIRE GROUND TOGHETHER.
PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME OUT HOW TO FIX OR TO RELOAD THE ORIGINAL SOFTWARE.
THANK YOU!
I NEED HELP BIG TIME, I TRYED THE SOFTWARE CHANGE TO THE BYPASS, LOAD THE "data.zip, testmode and MITACAP" ON SD CARD AND FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS , WENT TO THE WINDOWS CE AND CHNAGED THE ORIGINAL DATA.ZIP FILE ON IGO, AND NOW I THE SOFTWARE DOESN'T WORK AT ALL, I MEAN WHEN I GOT THE UNIT ON GO THE PIONEER LOGO AND FOR A SECOND A MESSAGE SAYING IS SOME KIND THE PROBLEM WITH ORIGINAL PIONEER SOFTWARE, I DID TRY TO RELOAD THE NEW 2.0 SOFTWARE WITH NO LUCKY, I DO HAVE THE PARKING BREAK AND MUTE WIRE GROUND TOGHETHER.PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP ME OUT HOW TO FIX OR TO RELOAD THE ORIGINAL SOFTWARE.
THANK YOU!
Sorry guys i found my mistake, i did name the data file "data.zip" instead "data", i got W-CE e rename the file to "data" and is working fine.
I did the hardware bypass but still lose video when I go over 15/16 does this mean I also have to do the software bypass?
thanks for the easy bypass guide. Did it this weekend in 15 minutes,
When I popped yellow wire, I must have pushed on it too hard as it would not lock in place at its new location, but I made it work.
Next hack, TV tuner. 
I did the hardware bypass but still lose video when I go over 15/16 does this mean I also have to do the software bypass?
Means you didn't do it right, check your connections and reread the instructions.
can i use another wire to do the bypass i need the mute wire for my factory back up system?
and am i correct that grounding the light green parking break wire and the newly relocated wire is all i have to do for the bypass
and what about the pink wire (CAR SPEED SIGNAL INPUT) and the violet/white (REVERSE SIGNAL INPUT) wire do i have to hook them up or can i leave them alone?
thanks
John
Just did this on my 90bt. Works great! Thanks
Twelve pages in this thread, and NO ONE has explained, with the hardware bypass, what exactly the "new mute wire location" pin is...... Yes we all know it works, but what is this pins official function? Does anyone have a clue? Is it written in the service and repair manuals you can download from here?
Someone please tell me to put my mind at ease 
Twelve pages in this thread, and NO ONE has explained, with the hardware bypass, what exactly the "new mute wire location" pin is...... Yes we all know it works, but what is this pins official function? Does anyone have a clue? Is it written in the service and repair manuals you can download from here?
Someone please tell me to put my mind at ease
There is some speculation here: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=19689&start=90#p159041
There are also a couple of explanations floating out there on the interwebs that suggest that you could just as easily use a new, blank wire in that location and get the same effect, but people suggest using the rarely-used mute wire for convenience. Why, exactly, you need a wire plugged into this slot in the harness (whether it be the relocated mute wire or some other wire), I don't know. But, Google is your friend. Nevertheless, I'll take a quick peek and report back if I find anything.
--Mav
Twelve pages in this thread, and NO ONE has explained, with the hardware bypass, what exactly the new pin is or does...... we all know it works, but what is this pins official function?There is some speculation here
Gee I wonder how the first person discovered this bypass then? Did they just go around grounding random unwired pins while driving around...? 
Well, no...as I understand it, this, or some variation of this, has been the way to bypass Pioneer decks for quite some time. Presumably, the first guy to "discover" it would be able to tell you how he figured it out (which would tell you why it works), but at this point it's sort of collective historical fact, I think.
Twelve pages in this thread, and NO ONE has explained, with the hardware bypass, what exactly the "new mute wire location" pin is...... Yes we all know it works, but what is this pins official function? Does anyone have a clue? Is it written in the service and repair manuals you can download from here?
Someone please tell me to put my mind at ease
I looked in the service manual for the F90bt and found that the pin is labeled "kmode" but couldn't find any more than a label.
searched the form and found http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=24779#p24779
doesn't really explain it but at least its not some kind of fluke that grounding that pin enables the bypass.