....

Why would that be? less complicated I mean, just had a look at the power lead and the F10BT has the yellow mute lead, was that on the 900's as well?

Because, in Europe, legislation is less strict...

(and people don't stand a chance trying to sue Pioneer if something happens whilst they're watching a video during driving.... )

For all European Pioneer units, it's always been a simple matter of just grounding the handbrake wire....

The only time you should get that message is when your viewing the back up cam. If you go into your rear view cam settings make sure the polarity is set to BATTERY and not GND.

You are my hero. I had convinced myself that I wired it up wrong, bypass included, that when i had a fleeting thought of it acting like a rear viewing camera I dismissed it. I went into the options and it was on BATTERY, but the camera was selected as ON. So I switched it to off and now it works superbly. Couldn't be happier. Thank you so much for you help.

Also have to thank this entire thread for all the discussion it really helped guide me through the process and what pit falls I will encounter. LOVE this unit.

unit powered up with just the h/brake cable grounded out and works a treat, everything available, yet to test the DVD whilst on the move though

I went into the options and it was on BATTERY, but the camera was selected as ON. So I switched it to off and now it works superbly.

Actually you may have your camera trigger connected to a negative source. I thats the case, you can switch BATTERY to GND and it will allow you to use your camera without the problem you encountered. Otherwise, I am glad I was able to help.

ok Im having issues with this bypass and have a couple of questions.

This is what i did so far....

Moved MUTE wire one over on the white connector

tied that wire and the brake wire to ground on a piece of the truck

Know the question i have is when you go and drive the vehicle is your brake showing on all the time in the navigation settings section.

I have been at this for 5 hours and its starting to really bug me......

HELPP.....

Yes, the parking brake will show as "on" in the nav settings. The moved mute wire will keep the unit from displaying an ERROR message on the main screen wit a warning about the parking brake being wired incorrectly.

Know i have a bunch more questions because it still is not working.

1.What type of connectors is everyone using? I bought some shrink tubing with what looks like solder in it, as you heat it up it melts and shrinks. would this cause a connection issue?

2. Does everyone have there reverse wire hooked up? would not having this hooked up cause an issue?

3. How do you insert a disk? I have tried the following pressed the eject button which brings up that bar on the bottom of the screen. I pressed the open nothing happened, the tilt buttons look to be grayed out, and the insert SD card does nothing.

I hope i don't have a defective unit because i drove 1.5 hrs to get it and that would be a long drive back....

Also where can i get new wiring harnesses for the back of the unit if i screw them up to bad?

Thank you in advance

1. I would say your method of joining the wires together may be the problem. You should solder or use crimping caps to splice the wires together to make sure you have a good connection. Also make sure the relocated wire is secured in the slot properly.

2. Hs nothing to do with your problem

3. That sounds like a defective unit. You should not be having those problems regardless of the bypass problems.

Hello,

THank you for the info...

Couple more questions:

1. Is there somewhere I can buy new harnesses for the unit as the ones I have are getting really short?

or should i just return the harness with the unit and get new ones?

I wouldn't worry about the harness if your going to return the unit for exchange.

Well drove to columbia today and exchanged it with no problems basically slide the old one out of the dash and installed the new one right there. The only issue is i still have the old harness and the white connector is pretty beat up so im going to buy another one from pioneer to do the mod. Thanks everyone for the help im sure i will have some more questions as i get the mod working. I like the N3 where you just bent a paperclip and moved a switch under a label and everything worked lol

I've been lurking and I finally purchased a Z110BT and install this pass weekend but for some reason I cannot get the wire out to do the bypass. I already beat up the harness and yellow wire is still does not come out. I Lifted up the locking tab not all the way, but it is almost all the way on the yellow wire. I'm afraid that I may ruin this harness and will not work altogether

I had the same problem when I did my bypass. What worked for me was to brace the tab open with a small screw driver and insert a thumb tac into the hole of the wire you want to remove from the front of the harness. The thumb tac pushed the wire out without any problem.

Thanks VBLUE42. That's what I've been doing, I'll try again. Thanks again for your help.

I tried everything you guys have mentioned but still had no luck in getting that damn mute wire out.... so, I took a length of the 'pink' wire extention that came with the unit and stripped off about 10mm and slid it in the slot next to the mute wire. I used a piece of leftover stripped insulation to wedge the wire in place making sure it seated to the very end so that I could see copper from the pin-side and threaded the wire into the ziptie on the harness. I then used a small needle about the size of the pins on the HU to make a path between the copper strands for the pin to follow.

Connected everthing the way described above, and the bypass was successful..... Unfortunately, there is a gawdawful noise that comes from the RF speaker and excess hissing in the system. And I dont get doorchimes like I am supposed to...Either my GMOS-LAN-01 is defective, or there is something screwey with how my conversion van is wired. I went back and checked all my connections, and even disconnected the RF wire coming off of the harness, but still get the screwey static from the RF door speaker. Not sure what to do other than bring it into a shop...

At least I know the bypass can be done without nearly breaking my harness again

Yes, the parking brake will show as "on" in the nav settings. The moved mute wire will keep the unit from displaying an ERROR message on the main screen wit a warning about the parking brake being wired incorrectly.

I moved my mute wire over and everything is grounded properly. The unit always shows the parking break as 'on' However when I get going above about 5MPH I get locked out of most functions. Everything seems to be grounded properly. I'm also getting the grounding error message.

How would the unit be showing the parking break as engaged if the bypass was not wired properly?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

mikebaby

That indicates that the relocated mute wire is not seated properly. This is usually the case when people are having this problem. Re-check your connections.

IT WORKS...... IF any one needs help or busts there pin assembly let me know i can take my other harness apart as i bought a new one. One thing that i noticed is that on the top of the connector which inserts into the unit there is a open rectangle above every pin opening. In this opening there is a small section of metal that is locking the pin above a plastic ridge in the connector. If you pull the wire out without pushing this back there is a good chance you will break that piece of metal and then it wont make a good connection when you move it over. Another thing is that these connectors are made out of very thin metal and are easy to expand if you use the wrong pushing mechanism to push down through the pin opening. I would recommend a thumb tac but if it doesn't push out very easy the metal piece is not unlocked yet.

I just did the bypass and I think it would be a little easier for those of us who don't do this stuff all the time to have a few close up pics... (of course the pins and slots are so small I bet this is new to alot of us). I used a standard staple to release the pin once I had the bar pulled up. I was trying to push the staple in from the rear instead of the microslot in the front under the pin, until I looked close enough to see the slot... Need a pair of magnifying glasses to work on it...

Oh and you have to poke the side where you can see an opening in the first pic to release the bar, then shove something in to hold it up while you poke the front slot (poor connector, didn't take it to dinner or anything)...

Anyone try a software bypass?

Another question: Right now I have the slightly older AVIC-F90BT in my rig. From what I can see, the Z110 looks like it has EXACTLY the same connectors as the F90BT (w/ the exception of the iPod connector). Can anyone confirm this?

I've been thinking about upgrading to the Z110 and if it was acompletely plug-n-play swap then I might do it. My buddy's truck got broken into over the weekend and someone jacked his head unit so he offered to buy my F90 if I decide to upgrade. Like I said, if the connections are all the same and it'd be an easy swap, I might just do it!

It is not the same.

-B-

It is not the same.

 

-B-

Got anymore to say on the subject besides "no"? Like what is different?

Really, the two I am wondering about are the main harness connector and the RCA connector. If those two are the same, then it'll all be okay.

Looked into it a little more. Looks like the RCA connector is different but everything else will match up. No big deal, the only wiring I'll have to change is the remote turn-on blue wire. The power connector is the same and so is the nav antenna, microphone, IP-BUS, and wired remote input. All in all, I should be able to swap out my F90BT in about 20 mins.

I'll have to modify the RCA connector for the video bypass anyways, so it really doesn't matter anyways!

Power connector, gps, mic are the same.

RCA harness is different.

I had the F90BT swapped for the the Z110BT this week. Only changed the RCA and the iPod cable - kept the Sirius, the mic, the backup cam, power harness. Took them 30 minutes to do it in my 2006 Dodge Ram Megacab.