Hey guys, I just got my 110BT in the mail yesterday and jumped right into doing this install. I successfully got the mute pin out of the harness and relocated. I gave it a good 30 minutes with the jewelers tools then decided to cut it out. I just cut a slit in the top of the harness and pulled it right out no problem, very minimal damage to the harness.

Anyways... I'm soldering and heat shrinking all the wires and wanted to make sure of one thing first. Can I connect the newly relocated mute wire (yellow), the parking brake wire (green), and the ground for the radio (black) directly to the vehicle wiring harness' ground in lieu of grounding it directly to the frame? Is that too many things connected to one ground? Would that compromise the effectiveness of the ground for the radio?

That should be fine. It works for me.

I tried everything i can but was not able to remove mute wire from harness. Eventully Cut the parking brake wire in half and inserted it in new location pushing it all the way in using jeweler's screw driver, Grounded all and my system is running flow less for 2 days.

One more thing if you are using PAC SWI then ground it to cars body directly, read it in some other forum that it helps switch lag issue.

I got the bypass to work but when I drive 5mph or more I get the error message and it cuts of the video... I didnt connect the pink (Car Speed Signal) and the Violet (Reverse Gear Signal).. do U think tht might be the issue or is it ok to leave those 2 alone

No your issue is your bypass is not done correctly or one of the wires is not grounded properly. Usually the relocated wire is the culprit. Recheck your connections or review the instructions again.

I was able to modify the harness last night. What an enormous PITA. Will be installing everything over the weekend, so wish me luck...

GOOD LUCK!!

So no joy on the install this weekend, due to the second largest snowfall in recorded history in the city of Philadelphia. I guess it will have to wait...

Just to put it out there... I just did mine just now, and found that a regular/single staple with one end bent straight worked absolutely perfect for unlatching the pin...

I've seen someone on YouTube actually cutting the connector, to get it out...

Use a staple...

Stop struggling people. There is a locking tab on the connector. Pull this tab up slightly, and the pins pull right out.

viewtopic.php?f=57&t=27175

Stop struggling people. There is a locking tab on the connector. Pull this tab up slightly, and the pins pull right out.

http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=27175

Yeah...that was the first thing I did... But non-like yours, mine did not just pop/pull out...

Odds are, that yours never was seated correctly from the factory... There is a tiny metal locking piece, that is part of the pin itself, that locks it into place... and why you need to use the staple to push in from the front of the harness..

If you push it down too far, you'll need to pry it back up(gently) so that it locks in right when you move it over... Otherwise, you'll have issues with it down the road...

The locking strip that you're talking about doesn't go through to the second row of pins...ie...where the mute wire is

his is the best pic I could find....It's a different style pin...but it's exactly the same locking piece

Stop struggling people. There is a locking tab on the connector. Pull this tab up slightly, and the pins pull right out.

http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=27175

It isn't so simple for everyone. I did pry the locking plate on mine but that didn't release the pin. I used a thumb tac much in the way of the staple before mine would release.

Mine was installed without a bypass. The guy who installed bypass it by

not connecting the speed sensor then grounded the e-break and mute cables. It works. Make sure to reset or clear settings after

The speed sensor should be connected and will not impact the bypass.

anyone with an extra harness w/ extra pins they can take and mail out =P

I was able to modify the harness last night. What an enormous PITA. Will be installing everything over the weekend, so wish me luck...

OK, I installed everything on Friday and it works flawlessly, bypass and all. What an awesome head unit. I have spent only 50 miles or so in the car so far, so there is much to play with yet. Thanks to all on here for guidance re the bypass. That was invaluable.

Finally worked!

Thanks to the picture above.

I used a small flat screwdriver to lift the flat lock part across the harness up a little. It does not need to be removed so don't do that.

Got a normal staple and straighten one end. Then I insert the straight end into the small hole (which is above the bigger hole where the yellow wire is).

They key here is to push it in but slightly downward. By doing that you flatten the locking piece and it pulls right now. I did raise the locking piece slightly prior to reinserting for a better locking/fit.

So thanks to whoever originally posted that picture.

For those of you that played football, and have football fingers (fat and sometimes awkward) fingers, you can simply cut the mute wire (in lieu of taking it out) and strip it, then place it in the appropriate slot next to the severed mute wire, all the way through, and fold it up over the harness. This worked for me because my mute wire didnt come out after incessant tries and eventually tore. So I simply stripped it, and placed it through the slot next door and it works great....

As a noob to the Z110, here's a question...The connector to my unit is black and does look anything like the pics in this thread. Is this because I have the HD radio unit?

Your looking at the wrong connector. The connector in the pics is the RCA harness, that is where the mute wire is.

Looking at the rear of the unit, there is a white socket on the right that has nothing connected, on the left is the black socket that the harness is plugged into. This is connected to a gray connector that has all the wires spliced on. There is a larger gauge yellow wire on this connector but no blue/white on the opposite side. This connector doesn't have any spaces to move pins. I'm confused, I though for sure I'd find the white molex type connector back there. This was "professionally" installed in a '08 Honda Fit.

Thanks for helping a FNG!!

Well you have a problem if this was professionally installed. As I stated above, your looking at the wrong harness. The unit comes with two harnesses. One for power/speaker connections and one for RCA preamp connections. The mute wire that has to be relocated to properly achieve the bypass is on that RCA harness. Go back to your installer and tell them they need to give you the rest of what came with the unit.

Doh! The accessory cable was in the box, thanks for setting me straight on this.

Hey guys great site! I just got mine Monday and installed it myself. While this is far from my first install it is my first navi install. I followed the instructions in this thread and everything works great! Keep up the good work guys! As the name implies I put this in a 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty so if anyone has questions for that truck I will be glad to share what I learned with you.

Rob

Perhaps I missed this, but I currently have my mute wire set up to mute the headunit when I activate my Onstar. Will that not allow me to use this bypass method?