roomer has it we need a resistor to bypass unit. as soon as we figure it out we will post it........

I have heard the same thing. I will be playing with it on monday and will have bypass by tomorrow night. For sure. I have a phone call to make in the morning and the bypass will be everyones. Trust me on this. Watch this post on monday night. we will have the bypass.

good to hear some real installers are getting in on this, and not just speculators

Thanks for taking some of the heat off me! Everyone was expecting me to buy one and figure it out.

Oh and here is the engineer in me coming out.

If you guys are going to try resistors, put a volt meter across the resistor when you do it. You obviously need to connect to the pin that has 5V on it. When you put a resistor across that and ground measure the voltage across the resistor. Anything meaningfully would be in the 2.5V range, I would assume.

There is a pull up resistor to bring that point to 5V. If you short it to ground, it would be 0V. But if you need a resistor then that means that the pin is looking for a "somewhere in the middle" voltage. The problem is we don't know what that pull up resistor is. If you stick a 1ohm or short to ground we know that doesn't work. If you stick a high resistance across it and it's too close to 5V then that won't be different enough to make a difference. When you get a resister so the voltage is 2.5V then you know how big the resistor is pulling that pin to 5V it's the same size. Technically that point could be looking for a small range of voltages between 2.3 and 2.7 or whatever.... it could be looking for 4.2 through 4.5V. I don't know what pioneer is doing. But if you measure the voltage across the resistor and it's close to 0v or 5v I would assume you are way off and try a different value.

I was told you need a bypass module for the park brake and ignition when I picked up my Z2

I was told you need a bypass module for the park brake and ignition when I picked up my Z2

Were you told what kind? Because none of us seem to have heard of anyone who actually knows anything that works.

they gave me two modules where I bought my Z2 but now they say it only works for the Z1 not Z2 so will be getting refund on modules. I guess I will have to wait and see.

Update. my customer never showed up. I called late afternoon. He was expecting his z2 and ups did not deliver. Hopefully today. I also called one of my friends who works at big audio install supplier R and D and he said he was told by pioneer that it was no different than the z1. Which from these post does not seem to be true, He is keeping his ear out. Another friend who is a premeier dealer has pioneer coming to his shop for training today. Kee your fingers crossed. Maybe my customer will show up or he will get some info,

Has anyone tried to do the resistance theory that ducatiboy has mentioned? if so has it worked? we installed one at our shop and tried a few things but didnt work. customer had to take vehicle so now we dont have anything to try out on. let us know if you have tried this out.....

we drove on the express way playing with the resistors. parking brake wire gives u 4.88 volts before grounging it. and one the empty pins gives u 4.88 volts aswell. we tried diffrent ways but was out of luck.... we'll keep tring difrent resistors

Thanks for taking some of the heat off me! Everyone was expecting me to buy one and figure it out.

 

Oh and here is the engineer in me coming out.

 

If you guys are going to try resistors, put a volt meter across the resistor when you do it. You obviously need to connect to the pin that has 5V on it. When you put a resistor across that and ground measure the voltage across the resistor. Anything meaningfully would be in the 2.5V range, I would assume.

 

There is a pull up resistor to bring that point to 5V. If you short it to ground, it would be 0V. But if you need a resistor then that means that the pin is looking for a "somewhere in the middle" voltage. The problem is we don't know what that pull up resistor is. If you stick a 1ohm or short to ground we know that doesn't work. If you stick a high resistance across it and it's too close to 5V then that won't be different enough to make a difference. When you get a resister so the voltage is 2.5V then you know how big the resistor is pulling that pin to 5V it's the same size. Technically that point could be looking for a small range of voltages between 2.3 and 2.7 or whatever.... it could be looking for 4.2 through 4.5V. I don't know what pioneer is doing. But if you measure the voltage across the resistor and it's close to 0v or 5v I would assume you are way off and try a different value.

we drove on the express way playing with the resistors. parking brake wire gives u 4.88 volts before grounging it. and one the empty pins gives u 4.88 volts aswell. we tried diffrent ways but was out of luck.... we'll keep tring difrent resistors

From what I know of the Z1.... (and unfortunately all the knowledge anyone has about the Z2 is coming from experience of the Z1, and it's the closest thing we have... unless some pioneer reps want to chime in here and contribute)

Any change would need to be done stopped with the car off. Then make the change, reset the unit (recessed button on the bottom left, to the right of eject) and then start moving again. Any change made on the road is not a true test. If you see the pop up about an improper parking brake connection when the Z2 starts up, chances are nothing you do, even if correct will bypass the unit.

I posted some things to try in the you changed your topic to.

Remember to put in a resistor between those points and ground and measure the voltage across the resistor.

The "things you tried"... would be best shared with things like:

(and these are not true numbers just examples)

Voltage on Parking Brake, Voltage on wire #2, what happened

.............0V....................................0V....................................fail

.............0V....................................5V ....................................Fail

.............0V....................................2.5V....................................fail?

Etc.

I would start with that last one. I don't know what you tried. And if you reset the unit between tries.

All my knowledge comes from a full year messing with every facet of the bypass for the Z1. And I know that it can cause problems if you don't reset in between attempts.... or shut off between attempts and pop ups about parking brakes cause all sorts of problems with the bypass. I would hate if you are wasting time testing resistors while driving down the freeway and you might have skipped over something that worked because you didn't know to shut down and reset between attempts.

The problem with 2 threads... see here:

http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5421&start=16

At this point would it not be easier to get a potentiometer with a huge amount of turns and reset after say a quarter turn instead of swapping out resistors? That would take a lot of the legwork out of switching resistors around (and money too, even though resistors are under a cent apiece) then if you find something that works, you can just measure the resistance at the amount of turns you have.

At this point would it not be easier to get a potentiometer with a huge amount of turns and reset after say a quarter turn instead of swapping out resistors?

Yes, but not everyone has those lying around... most shops would have a pack of resistors or so. Someone also brought up a decade box, but those are a bit more scarce.

Either way works.

just put a switch on the acc. wire so that you dont have to stop and turn the vehicle off or power the unit down. this way you can switch on the go.

just put a switch on the acc. wire so that you dont have to stop and turn the vehicle off or power the unit down. this way you can switch on the go.

Thats just the thing though, what DB is saying is that sometimes the unit requires a reset or power down for test changes to be applied or for it to return to a default state after a change is made.

Just got the Z2 installed today, installer couldn't bypass the unit. I wish one of you can quickly figure out the secret to this. Good luck to all of you who are trying.

noticed everyones posts and we will be installing a z2 today at our shop. i think we have the bypass figured out.... we will let you know...later today...new member ....always used this site for help....just trying to give help back.....

if you are doing the installs today try this

on the bottom of the unit there are 4 pairs on leads that are exposed from the board. try soldering one or all of those leads

if you are doing the installs today try this

 

on the bottom of the unit there are 4 pairs on leads that are exposed from the board. try soldering one or all of those leads

T knows something..... oh and btw, you were absolutely right about the ship date for my z2. My dealer guy even called me and apologized and said I was right.

if you are doing the installs today try this

 

on the bottom of the unit there are 4 pairs on leads that are exposed from the board. try soldering one or all of those leads

Have you tryed this and does it work . I just tryed to find the resistance using a potentuometer with no luck. I started at 0 volts and changed the voltage .2 volts and reset the radio every time but had no luck.

no i haven't

it was a suggestion

none of the current bypasses everyone is suggesting work...tried all of them......all day today.... DO NOT SOLDER CONTACTS ON BOTTOM OF RADIO....THIS DOES NOT WORK....IT CAUSES SCREEN NOT TO OPEN.... UNIT IS OK THOUGH.....spoke to pioneer inside man today and he has had a prototype z2 for couple months and has not been able to figure it out...this may be a while before we get this guys......sorry...

Yup... lets wait and see.

also there is four empty slots in one of the harnesses(i cant remember which one) has anyone tried to ground those?

yes