Hmmm.....even if true, isn't this more difficult than the Z1 bypass?

Who cares how difficult it is. It sounds like anyone with a fair amount of electronics experience could do this bypass.

I care. This is from my original post in this thread:

I am offering $100 bounty for a bypass for the Z2 that is as easy or easier to initiate as the one for the Z1.

The Z1 bypass doesn't require "a fair amount of electronics experience," nor does it require glue guns or tape. As stated, my $100 is going to the person who figures out a process that is as easy or easier than the Z1 bypass. Everyone else who has pledged money for the bounty can decide for themselves. Personally, I don't care that YOU don't care how difficult is it. This thread is for a bounty under the terms stated.

adding a pot is easy enough. Doesn't require any skill other than a steady hand and some soldering tools.

Do we limit the 4.88 volts to 2.5 volts and then ground it? or do we apply 2.5 volts to the 4.88 volts (#2pin)?

What I gathered from that mess of a runon sentence with no pictures, is to apply 2.5V to pin2, ground the parking brake, and reset the unit.

I care. This is from my original post in this thread:

 

I am offering $100 bounty for a bypass for the Z2 that is as easy or easier to initiate as the one for the Z1.

I apologize. The way I originally read your post was that you were looking for a true bypass, not one with the hassle of resets every so often or flipping 10 different switches.

so can anyone confirm that this actually works ? and do u have to reset the unit every time you star your car ?????

no just reset with the cycle of the ignition on the initial trial of the new voltage going in and no more resets.

Do we limit the 4.88 volts to 2.5 volts and then ground it? or do we apply 2.5 volts to the 4.88 volts (#2pin)?

What I gathered from that mess of a runon sentence with no pictures, is to apply 2.5V to pin2, ground the parking brake, and reset the unit.

I believe that Hyperite's interpretation of this run-on sentence is correct.

I thought we all tried this before, but we can try it again.

How is this being performed?

Are you creating a resistor divider between 12V or car power and to ground and taking the resulting 2.5 volts from that and feeding it into the wire in connector 2?

OR

Are you using the pull up in the Z2's circuitry to create the resistor divider to produce the 2.5 volts?

The first one you would need 2 resistors (one of them being a pot) which you would fine tune to make the 2.5V.

The second one would be trying to fine tune the pot to be exactly like the resistance of the pull up resistor internal to the Z1.

if you make 2.5 volts from the car's wiring (+12), each car is slightly different. Each will sit at a slightly different voltage. So a single resistor divider might be problematic, which is why PHATTY260 is probably suggesting a pot.

But if you are just hooking a pot between the wire in connector 2 and ground you are creating a resistor divider based on the internal pullup. Which once you take your pot out and measure it we can just use a resistor (assuming everyone's Z2 internal processor voltage is 4.88 like you said).

PHATTY260, If you put a pot in there what value did you use? Also what was yours set to? Can you measure the pot?

if this works and you can provide a detailed install i will send over my bounty. and as long as it does not inter fear with the gps in any way

Guys (and gals),

Just remember. If you reset the unit and just ground the parking brake that will bypass a Z1 and a Z2 for a short while. Just by doing this and seeing it work for a mile or 100 is not the real test. Make sure this works for MANY miles before counting this a success.

I'm not trying to be pessimistic, but let's not jump to a conclusion of success and start sending checks. No matter if the secondary wire in connector 2 is working on not, just grounding the parking brake will work for a short while.

does anything get deleted if i reset my unit ?

ducati can you please post a list of parts to be able to do this, so that i can try it tomorrow.

and a detailed process with pics if possible. thanx for any info you can share

does anything get deleted if i reset my unit ?

ducati can you please post a list of parts to be able to do this, so that i can try it tomorrow.

and a detailed process with pics if possible. thanx for any info you can share

My recollection is that you would lose your am/fm presets and any audio settings (like fader and balance and sound field). But that's assuming when he says reset they mean that you hit the recessed button to the right of eject. There are 4 levels of reset listed in the manual, that's the lowest one (#1) and since PHATTY260 didn't mention which one, I would assume he meant the lowest one.

As for the parts? I have no idea. Remember this is PHATTY260's idea. Not mine. We did try this bypass before. I could hunt down for the thread if you want me to when I get time, but this was done before. But we can try this again. I don't have a Z2 so I can only tell people to try things, I can't do them myself. They might have been done wrong.

http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic. ... resistance

As for what you need to do this to see if this works.... (without any feedback from my questions to PHATTY260)....

You would need a pot, I would assume a fairly high one. One of these:

http://www.radioshack.com/search/index. ... w=pot&sr=1

would probably work.

And a volt meter (and resistance meter).

My assumption is that PHATTY260 was talking about taking the "secret wire" that I talk about grounding from my site (this is on connector 2)

Don't ground that wire, instead take a pot and connect one side to that wire and the other side to ground. There are 3 wires on a pot (usually) and you want to put one end to one side and the MIDDLE one to the other (it doesn't matter which). Then put the volt meter on both pins from the pot you connected and measure the voltage (with the power on) and see what the voltage is. It should be somewhere between 0V and 5V. Adjust the pot till you see it read 2.5V.

Then reset the unit and see what happens.

The amount of resistance 5K, 10K, 100K, 1M all depends on the resistor inside the Z2. When you are done with this, you can take apart the circuit and measure the resistance between those 2 points on the pot and you will know what it is. I would guess a 10K or a 100K or even a 1M maybe. But I don't know without measuring it myself.

If you choose one too small, then it won't make it up to 2.5V no matter how you turn the pot knob. If it's too big, you can get 2.5V but to get that exactly will be very touchy. Hopefully when someone tries this, take the pot out and measure the resistance on it without touching the pot knob, then we can all just use that resistor and it will cost $0.01 each (in bulk).

If it is the later (apply 2.5 volts to the pin) we could just connect a AA battery, that should provind what is needed.

If it is the later (apply 2.5 volts to the pin) we could just connect a AA battery, that should provind what is needed.

First that's 1.5 volts and second that's a very sloppy solution and even if it was 2.5V as the battery drains (could be rather fast) depending on what's in the circuit, it would cause the bypass to fail.

If they want 2.5V we can come up with a resistor or 2 which would produce it from the car's wiring for little or no cost. And the only way for that voltage to "fail" would be that the car's electrical system fails, and if so you have bigger problems than your Z2 is not bypassed.

Just throwing Ideas out there mainly to try and verify not necessarily as a perminant fix

Sure its fun to poke fun at we poor desperate Z2 bypass jockeys, but I for one am very serious about my reward. If you don’t have a Z2 and you are not real serious about the bypass, there are other blog types threads on this site play in.

Again, I would like to re-affirm my bid for $200 bucks added to the reward.

I and others may seem desperate and pathetic – but I am very serious about my offering.

j-e/h

question about the pin that you normally ground (the yellow one in ducati's picture) does this wire rest at 5v?

if so you are using the pot to pull down the voltage to 2.5v, if someone can confirm this i can make a circuit that atuomatically adjusts to make the 2.5v on this wire for any unit.

question about the pin that you normally ground (the yellow one in ducati's picture) does this wire rest at 5v?

 

if so you are using the pot to pull down the voltage to 2.5v, if someone can confirm this

Yes this is the theory that was proposed again. We did already try this before but it was proposed again so we can try this.

i can make a circuit that automatically adjusts to make the 2.5v on this wire for any unit.

While I applaud your ingenuity and proposal for a circuit for the Z2.... The voltage on that point I believe is 4.88 Volts as measured (from a couple of different people) and I'm sure each Z2 uses the same pull up resistor. We just don't know what it is. When we figure out what it is, all you will need to produce this 2.5V is a single resistor. I don't believe that there will be enough of a variation from Z2 to Z2 to warrant a circuit to produce 2.5V.

I also don't hold a lot of faith in this bypass attempt since it was tried before (or reported to have been tried before).

but why don't we see if this works with a pot and see if it lasts. And then start adjusting the pot to see how "picky" the A2D is inside the Z2 (if this truly works) and then if it's down to 1 LSB or something a circuit might be necessary, but I would be surprised if this happens to be a solution that you would need more than the 1 specific resistor.

I have friend thats did this but I haven't had a chance to try it out myself. Pretty much it's the same as the Z1. Insert a pin then ground it with the parking brake wire. BUT, you will also have to flash the dimmer wire too. Flash the dimmer with 12 volts a few time before the screen turns on. Good luck!

That doesn't work. Was tried months ago

I have friend thats did this but I haven't had a chance to try it out myself. Pretty much it's the same as the Z1. Insert a pin then ground it with the parking brake wire. BUT, you will also have to flash the dimmer wire too. Flash the dimmer with 12 volts a few time before the screen turns on. Good luck!

I have friend thats did this but I haven't had a chance to try it out myself. Pretty much it's the same as the Z1. Insert a pin then ground it with the parking brake wire. BUT, you will also have to flash the dimmer wire too. Flash the dimmer with 12 volts a few time before the screen turns on. Good luck!

Did anyone actually READ the 24 page bypass thread before posting REPETITIVE garbage in THIS thread? Just because its in a different thread doesnt mean you're some pioneer (no pun intended) of info and just shed some new light on this issue. What you just posted doesnt work.

Damnit people, READ for gods sake.

As for this "new" solution. It was tried back in april when the unit came out. Or, it was reported to have been tried. And if memory serves, it worked for a bit, then after a bit of use it stopped working and the "bypass" was locked out again.

GL

I would still like PHATTY260 to clarify his post...are you adding 2.5 volts to the pin or are you bringing the 4.88 volts down to 2.5 before grounding?

I would still like PHATTY260 to clarify his post...are you adding 2.5 volts to the pin or are you bringing the 4.88 volts down to 2.5 before grounding?

Electrically, there is no real functional difference. How ever you end up with 2.5V on that pin, the input to the A2D would not know the difference. But no one would actually apply 2.5V with a power source. You would do it with some form of resistor. PHATTY260 says that he/she used a resistor (pot). Without saying that any other device/thing was used, I would assume it's pulling down the 4.8V on that pin to 2.5V with that pot.

I have friend thats did this but I haven't had a chance to try it out myself. Pretty much it's the same as the Z1. Insert a pin then ground it with the parking brake wire. BUT, you will also have to flash the dimmer wire too. Flash the dimmer with 12 volts a few time before the screen turns on. Good luck!

Is your friend an idiot? Because I know you are...

Damn, seriously people...CMON!

Is your friend an idiot? Because I know you are...

 

Damn, seriously people...CMON!

Cmon now we can be a little nicer than that right? I know it was something already posted and already tried. I also don't think it would actually do anything. But if we are mean to people who post things people will stop posting things. It's possible we might stop people from just posting repetitive things or things they could have found by a quick search. But if this kind of reaction happens there is a possibility that someone who stumbled across something that would matter might keep it to themselves instead of sharing and risking being called an idiot. We can't all be as smart as me! (or is that I)

I know it's a duplicate, and it's not a problem to mention it.... but calling people idiots might be a bit excessive. It's an unnecessary post, but that doesn't make someone an idiot.

Can we play nice?

Maybe I have a higher tolerance for repetitive questions.

i used catalog number 211 the first one u suggested and took one side to constant and one side to ground then the middle tested with the negative side of the dmm and brought the voltage to 2.5 into the pin. The only thing is that u have to test when the vehicle is running the batt rests at 12v and when running 14v so there is a bit of difference......seems to be working how long did it work before going into lock out mode before?