inferno999

Also, in my short experience with the Z3, There's few new XM icons (39, 47, 68, 69, 73, 87, and a bunch of NHL and Play by Play icons. Still no 59 or 93). POI's have definately been updated, but there's still a few I can't find in there. And I know it could just be me, but I swear the maps look cleaner, especially in City View. Maybe just for my corner of the Bay Area. Who knows.

Holy crap, no kidding! I'm getting 9.3mbs down! So, FTP d/l finished in about 3 hours. Waited for a lunch break to drop it onto the Z1's HDD (took about 20 minutes) and took it to the car. Thank god my Franken-Z (Z1, upped to Z2, upped to Z2/Z3 Mash-Up) took the firmware update and is now a true Z3. Voice commands work perfectly (not that I use them). Current versions: VERSION: 03.0000 CDDB: 07-01-0030 PLATFORM: 3.000100 GPS PROGRAM: 1.200000 HDD APPLICATION: 3.100200 Wait a minute... The FTP Z3 image has the old CDDB? lol. At least that can be updated.

Congrats! so... does it?

Sources aside, they should both be of the exact same thing -- a virgin Z3, right? -- and therefore should be interchangeable. ... Problem is, there's a problem, and I'm curious what it is.

I'm assuming you mean 2.140000?

Hum, if they're both supposed to be of the same thing (Virgin Z3 drive image) it could be possible to find the missing/damaged/changed files and upload a simple patch.... edit Assuming compression is normal, the easiest way would be to image a HDD with the milti-part working Z3 image, then re-image to a single file tib, then run a patch maker (like Embryo Patch Maker) to determine the difference and create an IPS. 'Spose you could also do it at a file level by extracting both and comparing files. Anybody recommend any good file comp tools? I've used a few in the past but was never real

Damn. So that means the Megaupload image really is tainted, not just corrupt. That's the SECOND tainted Z3 image I've downloaded now. Hyperite, may as well take the Megaupload links down. FTPing now. Third time's a charm?

Holy crap, no kidding! I'm getting 9.3mbs down!

Dumb question...do you want me to confirm each file? Naw, just z3_septicdeath.tib WinRar supposedly won't extract multi-part files if one portion of the archive is corrupt. if the IMAGE isn't the same though, then there's something to talk about.

"Virgin" You sure? Just did an MD5 on the Megaupload Z3 image: 99A22C6401349F93AD5A09F9E0B8A2F9 Can anybody confirm they're getting the same checksum? (use this if you don't already have a CRC tool. (Use unicode).

I was wondering why there wasn't a CRC for the TIB. But then, if the image it was made with is corrupt, a CRC wouldn't really help now, would it.. I've still got 5 of 14 left to d/l. Should I just stop now and wait for the FTP to come back up? -inferno999

=D My point exactly. Any why testing is important

This is more about WHAT the mash-up image (used by god knows how many e-bay sellers right now) really is... not where to get it. I can't help with that. (Besides, passing around untested backups of a complicated piece of hardware which include firmware modifications with unknown consequences, only to have dozens of people brick their Z's then come crying back screaming bloody murder, is NOT good PR. Most people should consider themselves lucky others are willing to risk bricking their Z's so they don't have to.) Anyway, I've concluded testing. Inserting the Mash-up image in a Z2 (

First, I'd try to rule out faulty Z2 hardware with another video source. Camera with Video out would be easiest. If that fails too, well, there ya go. If it's clear, then you might want to check power. I'm using a 250watt inverter. The xBox draws 74watts so pretty much anything should be able to drive it.

First partition (with maps). Dir is \TTSENGINE Edit: also, forgot to say that the PRG.FLG flag file is included (needed for the bypass to work). Either this is by default in the Z3 or a result of the "mash-up". It'll be impossible to tell until we can get a raw, real Z3 image.

There are brightness settings on the Z2 (hit "V") you might want to check, as well as whether or not the illumination lead was toggled on or off. Other than that, I've not had any problems doing exactly what you're doing.

I've spent the morning evaluating this "mash-up" Z3 image that's recently surfaced on the net. Sorry, no link yet. Note: I have not loaded the image onto the Z2's HDD yet. This is purely from examing files. The maps files have definitely changed, and there's few new XM icons (39, 47, 68, 69, 73, 87, and a bunch of NHL and Play by Play icons. Still no 59 or 93). The SDATA dir also shows a release.txt containing PU1-2-E (up from the Z2's PU1-2-D). I assume this is in regards to XM, but haven't tested extensively enough to be certain. There are also changes to a significant number o

This question comes up every week or so it seems. In short, It's the disc. You have a few options: [*:90l7bxbg]leave it in and keep letting it reboot. It may be able to get the file it's crashing on[*:90l7bxbg]take out the disc, let it boot, put it back in, etc.[*:90l7bxbg]Burn it again, slower, on different media and try again

No BS. Testing in progress.

not straight atrac though. Standard atrac converters do not seem to work as this has been tried before.

You're confused. It documents the power connection and IP-bus connections in different sections. when it says, "When using this product with the head unit (or AV head unit) using the IP-BUS only, connect each piece of equipment as below" and the power isn't shown, it's because it's JUST showing the IP-bus/daya connection configuration. Power is still required no matter what. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/p ... Manual.pdf

It's online too: http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/par ... um=czn7008

thought so, oh well... these were files I'd scrounged off the net over the last couple of years No need to scrounge; I'm hosting quite a bit: http://www.inferno999.com/gps.html If you've got something I don't, I'd love to add it to the list. PM

Over the last two years since the Z1 came out, I've installed it in two cas. The first car, I put the antenna on the roof, connected VSS .. the whole nine. Worked great. When I moved it to the second car I decided to put the receiver on the dash (no plate) and did NOT connect VSS. The thing was lost all the time and never knew which way was north. Before taking the time to look for the VSS I thought, "well, maybe I'll try the 'required' metal plate and see if it helps." Low and behold, that was enough. I get 100% signal, flawless navigation, and it never misses a turn. Summary: