SickRick

Sure you can record CD-R's, that are AUDIO discs - not mp3 discs. I only listen to live CD's that I've recorded at concerts and mastered to CD-R. Works just fine. What they're talking about is CD-R's with the copyprotect bit set (SCMS). Most computer based software ignores or resets the SCMS bit to 0. Standalone (consumer) CD Recorders that are used to copy CD's usually set the SCMS bit to 1 - prohibiting further copies to be made. Rick

The ic also has a sub-mini connector - reasonably hard to come by. DO NOT USE the usual sub-mini to mini adapter (a la' radio shack) as it doesn't seat fully in the connector on the rear of the HU and will fry stuff. I know this firsthand, as I tried to use one to hook a speaker to the External NAV Speaker connection and screwed up my unit... Rick

Thanks for the great circuit Steve. I initially tried the 2 TR-7's, and couldn't get it to work. Also, I initially couldn't get your circuit to work, then went through my wiring and found a connection that wasn't quite up to snuff. I personally went thru and soldered all my connections afterwards, so I know they're all good now. The unit works 100% of the time. Rick

Can't be done (or at least, you don't want to spend $2K on a unit and hack it to pieces... Cut your vents, or get a single DIN with pop out screen - though it's not going to have the feature set of the Z1... Rick

[quote name="Anonymous"]whats up with that 6ave.com website. it keeps redirecting me to a porn site.. how can pioneer deny warranty. If you bought it, and its not grey market, it has a warranty card, and thats that. no? i think its illegal to force you to buy it somewhere. its retail boxed.[/quote] All manufacturers have a RIGHT to sell thru an authorized dealer network, and a RIGHT to deny warranty on un-authorized sales. PLUS with most manufacturers, dealers that are caught distro-ing to the grey market lose thier authorization. Many moons ago I worked for an IBM dealer, and had to

It appears to be full duplex... Rick

2005 Corvette with Autoheadlights... Think I'm one of the first folks to get one of these in (cost me more for Sat Fedex than the module, but I HAD TO HAVE IT RIGHT AWAY). Install was a breeze. Hell, I even broke out the soldering iron to solder the connections. I had 2 TR-7's, and either couldn't get them programmed correctly, or wired them incorrectly. This thing just goes inline and works. Works like a CHARM. Have to start with the e-brake off (mine is wired correctly), but all functions are available now. Hats off to D-boy for putting the time in to designing and bu

Page 92 of the owners manual. Time is synch'd from the GPS satellite, not XM/Sirius. Don't see anything that documents setting military time though... Rick

[quote name="caliscooter"]Fortunately I hadnt had the bluetooth installed on the first Z1 as it hadnt been shipped yet. Its definately a pain that you cannot instruct the unit not to store incoming calls. Least they could do is protect private data with some sort of password system. I work for a division of a Japanese technology manufacturer, and we face issues such as this every day. The folks on the other side of the pool have a different culture of how technology is supposed to work..or maybe said a different way... a different view of what is intuitive. Neither the US or the Japanese vi

[quote name="caliscooter"]Just out of curiosity, where about do you have the phone volume set at? I seem to be tone deaf to my girlfriends voice (Not sure if thats the Z1's fault or other reasons! :wink: ), and I cant seem to get that perfect volume vs. feedback setting. ~Sh[/quote] I found in my particular case (Samsung I730 PPC Phone) that I can adjust the volume from the phone AND in the hardware settings on the HU. I got better results with the phone outputting to the right speaker only, some folks get better with the left speaker only. Also very dependant on mic position too.

On my previous Bluetooth (Parrot), I had the center dash speaker connected as my phone speaker. The Z1 has an accessory guide speaker, and an output on the rear to connect it to. Went to Radio Shack to pickup a sub-mini connector to make a cable. All they had was a sub-to-1/8 phone adapter. Problem was (and I didn't notice until afterwards) that the connector doesn't go all the way into the jack - so it appears that it shorted the output of the preamp/amp that feeds the the speaker. Well, this also stopped the guide voice/phone from playing thru the normal outputs completely. It al

[quote name="caliscooter"]Hi.... I drive quite a bit for a living, and have had some extensive road time playing with my new Z1. I thought I'd throw some thoughts out to you all, and see what kind of feedback it generates. Many brains are better than one usually!! I love the unit.... but a little more thought from Pioneer would go a LONG way! 1) Already had my first Z1 stolen from my rig. Guess what? The unit does not forget where you live when it loses battery power. Nor is there a password security system in the firmware. Advice to you all... do NOT put your home addy or the addy of

[url=http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_2007714_306542192,00.html]http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/p ... 92,00.html[/url] There is an external speaker, and a jack for it on the back of the HU. It re-directs guide/voice/telephone functions. I tried a sub-mini adapter and direct wire to my center dash speaker, but the adapter didn't fully seat, and screwed up the HU (see my thread in troubleshooting). Rick

This one works WAY BETTER than the older unit. Or way better on the Z1 than the older unit on the D1 I tried it on. I called Pioneer on the older unit & my D1, and they said "yes it sucks, use the RCA in for your IPod". I returned it to Crutchfield. Still not perfect yet, though the issue is more with the HU than the adapter. Having 5 lines in the search beats one line at a time on the D1. A suggestion would be to do an alpha quickscroll (like with the phone book). Another thing they could do is cache the entire directory information on the hard disc, instead of fetching it from

So, lemme get this straight... If your parking brake IS connected and you use it (that is, the PARKING BRAKE - as I have a 6 speed), do you need to RELEASE the parking brake BEFORE starting the car (and flashing the lights) for the bypass to work, or leave the parking brake SET (ie: grounded) and start the car, do the flashy-thing, then release the parking brake to drive. This is getting confusing now... Rick