bobsyouruncle

I think the traffic flow indicators you see on screen will depend on how traffic flow data is gathered/reported in the city you live in. Here in Atlanta, I see the little dots on screen that reflect traffic conditions. The dots location on the map correspond almost exactly with the location of the DOT traffic flow sensors and cameras as I pass them on the road. They are really hard to miss along the side of the freeways here. Big white poles with cameras on them everywhere you look. Getting decent traffic data in the car was worth $160 for me all by itself. $60 for the update & $9

Contact pioneer and tell them to send you new sd cards. Sounds like the ones you got are borked. Maybe they could even give you a link to download the files . Off the wall suggestion, and probably won't help your issue, but you could try running chkdsk on them.

I actually like that better. I've always thought of them as impotent little buggers hiding in their holes. I got a chuckle out of that.

I noticed this as well after the ver3 update. MSN direct signal is now much stronger, more reliable and the content, such as those traffic indicators, updates much faster now. Quite pleased with it and don't feel anymore I wasted money on a lifetime sub.

Actually you can set them, you just can't see them. That's even more annoying in opinion.

That's odd. The F900 isn't supposed to do that. The video output to the rear screen is supposed to be an exact duplicate of what you see on the head unit display.

My MSN DIrect signal had always been "iffy" at best, and I live/work in areas that are supposed to have good coverage. I was lucky to ever see 1 bar on the status page, and that was rare. After applying the 3.0 update I purchased from Pioneer, I now have full bars most all the time. MSN direct data used to take forever to actually populate. Everything is current within minutes of startup now. Quite suprised and very pleased.

Depends on where you live... I am quite happy to be in a state that recognizes that it is within a citizens rights to use lethal force in defense of their person or property. Being in fear of your life is no longer a legal ambiguity in this state. You just have to have believed there was no other option available to you to prevent the crime. Now I'm not saying that stealing a car stereo is a crime worthy of death, but if you break into someones car and they catch you and attempt to hold you at gunpoint until law enforcement arrives, you had best sit still and behave. No telling what may ha

It's not stealing when you sell software you bought... as long as you don't also keep a copy and keep using it yourself. That would be a violation of copyright. When you make a software purchase, you aren't "buying" the software, you a buying a license to use the software. Sure, the physical media it came on may be yours to do with as you will, but the software on it is still the property of the copyright holder. I'm not passing judgement on anybody or picking sides in the debate, that's just the way it is.

Multimeter. Cheap ones can be bought for less than $10. I am actually a big fan of the PAc canbus harnesses. Sure, they can be pricey, but well worth it to me for the time they save. Shop around on-line, they can usually be found for around $70.

Make sure the ip-bus cable is hooked up right way around. Blue end goes in the head unit, black end goes into optional equipment. Sounds like you have it backwards. It really does matter.

No problem. Glad you got it worked out. I may not know much, but I know my fords.

Did you use the PAC c2r-frd1 wiring harness when you installed it? If you did, the NGS daignostic computer the dealer uses will freak out the logic in the harness. Pull the negative terminal on the battery and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then hook it back up. This happens to me all the time.

.... copied from my reply to your OTHER post... Sounds like you connected the power lead for the backup camera to your reverse light wire. The backup camera power lead should have been a little longer than the video cable that runs to the head unit. The backup camera is supposed to get power from a switched power source in the car, just like the RED acc switched power for the stereo. Hence the wire that will run up to the dash, just like the signal cable. The camera needs to be powered on while the car is on. The wire you connect to the reverse light wire is the violet/white lead

Sounds like you connected the power lead for the backup camera to your reverse light wire. The backup camera power lead should have been a little longer than the video cable that runs to the head unit. The backup camera is supposed to get power from a switched power source in the car, just like the RED acc switched power for the stereo. Hence the wire that will run up to the dash, just like the signal cable. The camera needs to be powered on while the car is on. The wire you connect to the reverse light wire is the violet/white lead in the avic harness. When you put the car in revers

Didn't see this posted yet. Just saw it on the Pioneer site this afternoon. I swear it wasn't there this morning. It does say it was update Friday, June 26, 2009, though. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/ ... 00BT?tab=F Maybe I missed something and everyone has it. If so, SORRY. If not... ENJOY. Edit -Seems to be the same file for f700, f900 & f90. That makes sense. F500 here... http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/ ... port?tab=B

Regrdless of any liabilty your work order ATTEMPTS to relieve you of, if you were sued, it would be up to the courts. Not trying to be a tool, but releases of that nature are shot down in court on a regular basis. Will you tender the sale or release the vehicle until the customer signs it? If not, the waiver isn't worth the paper. It will all come down to who has a better lawyer.

It's not the easiest thing to do, but when in map mode you can drag your finger across the scale for the zoom level to zoom in and out. They are kind of thin, so it doesn't work well with fat fingers, but the function is there on the touch screen.

Calling it expertise would be a stretch... Mileage may vary. Aonther's experience could be completely contrary to my own. No matter what you have seen, you haven't seen it all. I do know that much. Good luck with the install. Hope it goes well and you are happy. Let us know how it works out.

I feel like I'm repeating myself. Just explained this in another thread. The factory amps have no adjustable gain control. Every factory ford amp I have come across in the last few years has been hard wired for a 2v preamp signal. That's what the factory head units output (around 1.6v is what I've actually measured). If you haven't noticed, there isn't a whole lot of variety in the head units. You can adjust the sub out level from the AVIC, but there is only so much adjustment, especially at higher volumes. In my experience a 4v source will drive the factory amp to max output pretty

3-4k ohm should work fine. Seen as little as 1K and as high as 6K. Much prefer a 5v regulator myself. Just an opinion, though. Let us know how the 4v preouts work with the factory amp. I have had BAD experiences with that.

Unless you are keeping the factory amps, which have no gain control. The factory ford amp's gain is hardwired for 2v preamp signal (factory head unit will actually max out at around 1.6 volts. hey the signal only has to travel about 2.5 feet). You don't want to feed them from 4v sources. Even with a 2v aftermarket source, you have to cut the SW levels way down to keep the factory amps from complaining. You are more than welcome to try, you may have better luck. I would not recommend it though. Those 8" door subs are not cheap to replace if you melt them. Correction, they are cheap, ye

you could also EDIT the post to get rid of that... Just a thought.

What you are looking for is "reserve capacity." The higher number the better for this purpose. If you pick the battery with the greatest reserve capacity to fit your vehicle, it should also have more than enough cranking capacity (as in cranking amps or cold cranking amps) to start the vehicle. But, the highest cranking capacity battery for your car may NOT have the highest reserve capacity.