Flipper

Do yourself a favor and buy a soldiering gun/iron In case you havent soldiered before... (Do this in your house at the dinner table with something under you to protect the table so you dont piss off your woman/mom whatever the case may be) Strip back just enough of the insulation on the wire youre tapping into that you can wrap/twist the other wire around it. Don't cut the wire, leave it intact just push back the insulation. Use a razor blade to cut the insulation. It makes a clean cut in the insulation and it wont accidently cut the wire. Put the soldiering iron/gun against the twiste

The only knowledge I have about it is... My speakers are probably same as/similar to yours and it works fine. Dont blame me if you blow someting up but I really dont think its going to be an issue I have read some things where the issue with bose speakers was that they are 1ohm and they either wont play or they play at very low volume with after market HU's I was originally going to pay someone else to install my D3 (just because I wasnt familiar with taking apart my car and since I could afford it I didnt want to take a chance on breaking any clips etc etc) When I was talking to him a

I give up

My idea was to try and eliminate the need to bypass the park brake wire so it would be 100% software bypass. I know 128+mph is fast enough LOL I dont know if it would work but someone should at least try

I have an '05 Nissan 350Z that had a bose system in it. The Bose speakers sound "OK" and there's no special wiring I had to do. I do plan on replacing them at some point, but for the short term they worked fine. I have 7 speakers in the car. 2 front, 2 rear, 2 little tweeters, and a sub. Set the rear speakers to "full" if you set it to "sub" (even though theres a sub back there) it makes the rear speakers sound like crap. The sub could be wired seperately if you want go through all the hassle. (Not sure if a Maxima has a sub in the back or not) You'll probably like the way it sound

In case some of the people around here capable of doing this have stopped following the other thread (seems like they did) Has anyone tried setting it to 0?? Zero might turn it OFF If it's OFF it might not care about the P.Brake Worth a try anyways. I don't have an F so I couldnt try it if I wanted to, but sometimes settings things to zero is an OFF setting

wow not worth argueing over guys. I only posted that because Im a tech and I know how that stuff goes. Bottom line, if you want "someone else besides yourself" to do a bypass, circuit city or best buy is probably not your best bet. For me personally Id just write it right on the work order, "wired unit per customer specs" and make you sign it. (bobsyouruncle, that would resolve the liabilty issue. That one you're not going to shoot down in court, its not a blanket release of liability, it's specific). A lot of companies have strict rules about doing that kind of stuff though and th

yeah if you want to pay out the butt and only watch cartoons LOL

LOL, you guys are crazy all this agrivation and taking a chance on toasting your nav just for 10 extra streets in your map database laughable

I did find an ATSC tuner at one point smokenjet. Thats what I was saying. Its hard to find took me forever and then its some foreign site that I cant even get a real price for thew thing on and cant figure out how to order. Then even if I do order one who knows if it'll even work. I did see a couple though atsc not dvb

I would be very suprised if circuit city or best buy or any of those places would install any nav unit in any way other then the way it is supposed to be wired. In other words the reason they didnt bypass your nav correctly is because they never had any intention of doing it in the 1st place. They still wanted your money though lol so they told you "they'd try". You might get lucky sometimes but for the most part I wouldnt expect them to do it ever. Too much liability involved. You get in a wreck watching harry potter (lol) and they're liable for hooking it up.

uhm jaedee, what Im trying to say here is.... Isn't the park brake wire just hooked to a switch on the park brake lever? If that is in fact the case, then..... EVEN IF IT IS HOOKED UP TO THE SWITCH, THERE WON'T ALWAYS BE A NEGATIVE TO THE WIRE. DEPENDING ON IF THE PARK BRAKE IS APPLIED OR NOT WILL DETERMINE IF THERES A NEGATIVE ON THAT WIRE. How would the D3 know if it was hooked up or not? I mean I know it's a pretty advanced piece of equipment LOL, but I didnt know it had eyes hahaha All the D3 knows is... there is or there is not a negative to the wire. That being said I

kryngle, why do you need to update for new streets in your area? you need the avic to give you directions to the corner gas station? LOL Just messin wit ya

Im betting that most people that are having this problem are using 5G etc ipods. (since most people seem to be steering away from the newer ipods due to compatibility issues etc) My ipod classic has never had a problem with any noise. I would bet that the reason that turning off the charge function fixes the problem is probably due to current going into the ipod from the alternator. An old school GL Isolator (like you used to have to use to get the noise out of your old tapedeck/stereo) would probably do the trick.

OK so we're talking about the lame map update OK not confused anymore anyone that wastes time on that lame update... well I wont be wasting my time on it and Ill leave it at that LOL

Stupid question, but has anyone tried setting that to 0???

don't speed!!! sorry couldnt resist LOL

well I couldnt get that site to work (wierd msg when clicking links) but thats exactly the stuff I was talking about. Id want to be 100% sure it would work in the US before I got one and who knows if they are even any good even if they do work (how well) and its hard to find somewhere to order etc etc

Theres something wierd there though because isnt the park brake wire just hooked to a switch normally? if so how would the D3 know if it was hooked up or not? When I 1st did mine the park brake wire didnt have a great connection and I got a message that I needed to apply the park brake or something along those lines but I dont remember it telling me it was "hooked up incorrectly" I dunno just seems wierd.

wow, I spend 20 minutes looking through a tC service manual (not to mention the serach I did to find it). My4boys gets a thanks for spending 13 seconds typing the word vicinity and I get nada? LOL

uhmm.... You guys are confusing Theres an update for the D3 on a disk that comes with an N5?

well you might find yourself next to a mcdonalds and it'll tell you to drive 40 miles to get to one LOL (just keep that in mind) Dont get me wrong I like my D3, but you should know it's limitations For example the 1st trip I took with my D3 I was low on gas at one point (now granted I was in the middle of nowhere) but the D3 said the next gas station was quite a good ways away. I passed 3 or 4 gas stations on my way to the one that it told me was the "closest". I didnt stop at any of them because I was on a highway and I didnt know they were there until I had passed them. Also someti

I spent a lot of time looking into an option for DTV in the car. The technology is there but nobody is building it yet. They are still argueing over it. Supposedly they are working on a "MPH" reciever that works up to 120mph. Who knows if we'll ever see it. There are some recievers made in other countries that "might" work but I never found enough info to be sure, so I havent picked one up yet. They seem to work on the same frequencies that are in use in the US (some of the recievers I saw) but again like I said Im not 100% sure if any would work and I didnt want to blow $$$ not being sure. Th

Bones311, Couple of thoughts... 1. My speedo also didnt work after I installed my D3. The reason was that I messed up the wires on the back of my trip computer while I had my dash apart. Pain in the butt to take it all back apart to fix. 2. Maybe it's a problem with the pulse wire. Thats the wire where you tap into so the D3 can read your speed. Maybe that wire is cut where it was spliced. (Did you/he use the wire tap connector that was supplied with your D3? or was it tapped another way?) 3. I doubt seriously it has anything to do with your bypass. The bypass is primarily rela

Burning at lowered speed has a few draw backs, so in short without extensive explaination... if having trouble with any kind of burn its always good to try and lower the speed. Just dont go too low it can effect playback... if you can find out what speed the drive is that will be playing the disk its a good idea to go with that speed for your recording. When in doubt burn at 4x or 8x