Sgthawker

If you hardwire the cradle with the cradle connector, it requires the parking brake input. With this you cannot access menu features while in motion (as this is unsafe). You need to stop and apply the parking brake to access the menu. If you use the car power adapter and plug it right into the power connector on the F500BT itself, there is no need to worry about connecting the cable or menu access.

You don't need to wire the cradle. You can just plug the cigarette adapter into the F500 and use it. You can use it without any power, but you only get about a half hour of time before the battery dies. The hookup diagram shows hooking up both the 12v always hot, and the 5v cigarette adapter for the cradle wire. You can use the ND-G500 with the car audio system as an alternative. It has a 12v connection with a 5v power supply built in to supply the 5v without the cigarette adapter, to hook up on the F500's cradle cable. The yellow 12v always hot is required in North America only. It c

You could plug the cigarette adapter into the cradle cord and provide the 5v that way. You could hardwire a wire with a cigarette lighter socket behind the dash, use the adapter and hide as much as you can get behind the dashboard, and have your 5v hidden. The connector for the 5v is a small one unlike any other I have seen, it could be proprietary to Pioneer, but more likely it is a newer standard size plug that can be found online or at electronic specialty shops. Good Luck!

Hook the battery hot to the ND-G500, and then use the y built into it's harness to plug in the yellow wire from the F-500BT. It is the easiest answer.

If you mean the cigarette lighter adapter, then it is not 12v, but it is 5v. The large plastic plug that goes in the cigarette lighter converts the cars 12v to 5v that the unit needs. Hooking it directly to 12v will fry the F-500BT. The thickness of the wire on the adapter is relevant to the current flow through the wire. Larger wire = more electric. If you use too small a wire you can also cause damage by not providing enough current and cause the F-500BT to fail also. The ND-G500 has a similar setup using the output to be wired to the cradle's harness for the converted 12v to 5v and a l

If you use the ND-G500, you can hook the F-500BT's yellow wire to the NDG's wire harness which has a y to connect it. You can also hook it separately to the 12v always hot, or use the NDG's, it is up to you.

If it runs at lower amperage it could start a fire, or just fail, or fail sooner than an appropriate rating power supply. The amperage of the power source must meed the needs of the draw on the source. This runs the F500BT and charges the battery at the same time, thus Pioneer requires a 3 amp 5v source. Use less at your own risk!

It is a power on signal used to tell other items you are turning on your F500BT. The ND-G500 needs this connector to know when to operate with the F500BT. If you have an aux input on your factory stereo, you can just hook the audio out of the F500BT to the jack and control it like usual, not using the amp control wire. The yellow 12v wire goes to an always hot "12 volt" source.If you use the ND-G500 it also uses an always hot 12v. You can run it to the battery or use an available source in your fuse box etc. The 5v plug is used to operate the battery charger of the F500BT. The F5

You're very welcome. Good Luck!

Sorry, my bad. I see what you mean now. By splicing I removed the G500's extra connector and used the QC harness for the power to the radio. You can do both, it won't hurt anything if they are wired correctly, or you can cut out either one to use just a single source of power. I looked again at my other set of wires. The QC yellow and red wires are reversed in the connector compared to the G500 red and yellow wires. That could cause trouble. Providing always hot to the ignition/acc inputs which could kill your battery, no memory due to no power for memory circuits, and keyed hot to the mem

Certainly they do, power to the ND-G500 and power to the radio itself. With power to the amp, it produces 5v for the F500 to connect thru the cradle harness wire so no other wires are needed ( cigarette lighter adapter).

Actually that is easy. The harnesses are male and female. You can't hook the car harness to the input from the radio side of the ND-G500. It won't fit male to male or female to female. Now cutting and splicing the wires can be more difficult if you don't properly identify wires before cutting off the connectors.

That's it! Very easy. The only problem I felt I could address was the length of the ND-G500's harness. I needed near 2' and it is 10'. The power inversion of the connectors may have been the Quick Connect's harness. You do need some of these bypass wires for the radio. What ever was originally available to the radio is still needed. Some of the wires may have been in your car's harness for a navigation radio that the F-500 does not use or that your "normal" radio does not use. The radio still needs power (hot & keyed), ground, & illumination, at least. I used a wiring diagra

One of the connections is from the radio to the AMP, the other goes back to the car wiring harness. There is a double ISO connection for each. I was able to find one via the quickconnector link above. Search around for your manufacturer's connector. The connection to your radio splits speakers and other connections to separate ISO connectors. The Always hot, keyed hot, ground, dash lighting etc. are part of the 2nd. Now one pair comes from the car harness to the adapter, the 2nd half goes to the adapter to the back of the radio. You don't need: mute, car antenna, or speed si

In case you have not found the answer elsewhere: That connector is a standard in Europe, ISO I think. All European cars come with those so you can hook right to your car harness. You can search here at the forum for a link to parrotcables where you can buy an adapter cable from ISO to your model Car and just plug it in. I cut and soldered the cable removing the ISO connectors and about 8' of cable as the Pioneer cable is very long, and only need near 3' of cable. FYI the parrot or the pioneer hooked the Always hot and the Ignition/ACC hot backwards in the ISO connectors, so my splice was