karg

I replaced one 5k ohm resistance (R6) with 25k ohm so the dimming happens earlier than with the default setup. http://www.futurekit.com/2009/manual/future/eng/PDF_FK4/fk403e-3.pdf

My Saab has always lights on so the ILL wire has always +5V, thus the F910BT was constantly in night mode when set to "automatic". By pressing the MAP button 2-3 seconds, the brightness could be adjusted but I didn't like that... I wanted it to be totally automatic in function of the real day light availability. I built a circuit that has few transistors, a relay and light controlled transistor. By putting the ILL wire through this circuit, the F910BT now switches to night mode when it's dim enough I used this kit: http://www.futurekit.com/2009/index.php?option=com_content&tas

I just upgraded my AVIC-D3 to AVIC-F910BT. It was a really simple thing to do - same size, same pinouts and all. The AVIC-D3 main harness and the RCA harness were just plug-n-play. I didn't move and ground the D3 bypass mute wire because this european F910BT seems to be working fine just when the hand brake wire is grounded. I've updated its firmware to 3.021 but it still has old 2009 maps so maybe I'll buy CNSD-300FM when it's available somewhere. Now I'm just waiting for the iPod cable to arrive.. maybe later this week.

Hello, my AVIC-D3 is soft resetting itself randomly when using the Bluetooth with Nokia E90. The screen goes blank, music stops for a 0.5 seconds and then after a while it's back to normal state. This happens when the phone is connected and maybe more frequently when talking on the phone. The phone conversation doesn't get paused when this screen reset happens. What could cause this behavior? I have a CD-BTB200 attached to AVIC-D3. The other thing is that when the auto connect option is switched on, E90 gets connected and immediately disconnected. Maybe there isn't still any fix for this i

Yes, almost everyone has an opinion. I wasn't stating that my way is the best way and I wasn't saying that people should only burn at MAX speed. I was just asking, that why the slower speed would be better.

Sorry for stealing your text.. it's just that I'm always burning everything at MAX speed and having absolutely NO problems. This kind of information just makes me wonder that why slower speed is some how better... No offence, just curious And thank you for your upload!

Of course it depends of the disc and the burner but for example this kind of info is available: "Burn the ISO file with IMGBurner on DVD+DL @ low speed 2,4x" Why 2.4x then?

Why do they say that these ISO images should be burned @ 2.4X..? I burned them @ 8X to Verbatim DVD+R DL discs and they are working just fine.

I think you just need to recalibrate the speed sensor.

The Pirate Bay has them all. Just downloaded those. http://thepiratebay.org/search/pioneer% ... T/0/99/300

Hi! Is there russian map DVD for AVIC-D3 available and can it be used with an european D3? -Karg

Yep, CD-SR100 works just fine. It just has "audio" and "func" buttons that doesn't seem to do anything with AVID-D3.

Maybe your setup has some loose wire if this doesn't work. Works for me perfectly.

Hi, My manual says that when "Preout = Sub W." HPF would affect only the front speakers. However, also rear speakers are filtered according to the HPF setting. When I think of it, the manual probably should say that when "Rear SP = Sub W." HPF would affect only the front speakers. Is this an error in the manual or in D3 software? It seems to be impossible without any external device to use pre-amped wires and drive the rear speakers with full range and front speakers through the HPF.

Thanks for the info.. I ordered a CD-SR100 just for testing if it will work. No hard feelings if it doesn't.. only some 40 euros wasted. Lots of more money wasted just because I'm interested in women