Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bikinpunk

  • Rank

  1. worked like a charm. no problems at all. just followed the directions to a 't' and am now rocking the updated version. Thanks to all who made this possible!
  2. I started the download, but there are no seeders. Go figure. I'd be more than happy to pitch in a few bucks if it'll help get the ball rolling on a crack. Have you guys let this be known in other sections of this sub-forum? If not, I suggest you advertise this news. Otherwise, we'll only have about 8 people in the know. Thanks for the up, however useless it may be at this point.
  3. Glad to see you got it up and running. I got my supplies in last Friday but haven't had a chance to install them... I went with the 9115 remote so I could get the features I wanted (mute, answer/end call). I've programmed the SWI-PS so that 'mode' is VR, which works best for me. I love that. So, given that, the only other functions that were really useful to me were remote and answer/end call. I also plan to compete in MECA car audio competitions and having a remote for people who are judging/listening is a nice feature. For some reason, people look at me funny when I say to use th
  4. If anyone has any questions, please ask. I'll do my best to answer anything you ask. Quite honestly, the results speak for themselves. If you can read a graph, and read the legend (aka: dry erase board stuff), then you can figure out what's going on here. Of course, it may not even matter to you, which is fine. But, in the spirit of sharing and learning, I wanted to put this out there. Again, look at the graphs, look at the legend. pretty straightforward. Don't get caught up in all the jargon.
  5. I wouldn't expect different results. Well... maybe I would expect them from this... but in the ideal world, you would expect that you would have flat full range signal from any preout unless it's dedicated. The front end piece shouldn't limit you in any way, shape, or form. That's ideal. The reason I did it through only the front channels is simple: I'm running an external DSP to split up the front left/right signals to 8 channels of audio so each is then separately powered by it's own amplifier channel. I only need the front preouts. I don't use any of the others. Why
  6. Well, quite honestly I'm not happy with the results of the FR. Ideally you want a flat response at any volume level. What I especially don't like is the fact that even with the loudness option turned off, you still have a contour tailored to the low end at lower volumes. Quite frankly, that sucks if you're wanting your cd player to do its job and simply play music (and not color the sound). Now, at least the signal itself is clean up through full volume, at least in terms of distortion. But, the fact that the FR is so far from ideal bothers me.
  7. Pioneer z110bt Frequency Response Testing: The fun stuff. The test below used TrueRTA to run pink noise through the deck. Out of the deck, I used a home brew RCA to pin adapter, per VP Electricity's advice into an XLR cable where the response was recorded. The pioneer has 3 'loud' settings in addition to the standard 'off' setting. So, 4 total variances in FR if you wish: "Off", "Low", "Mid", and "High". The picture below lists the corresponding Test Number for each situation in BLUE. The red writing is for the scion headunit testing so IGNORE the RED writing for the z110b
  8. Did some frequency response and headunit clipping testing today on my Pioneer z110bt. Setup used was the laptop, truerta, some home made wires, and the oscope. Note: The z110bt's volume goes from 0-40. The testing was done only on the front rca outputs. First off, the Pioneer Z110BT Clipping Test: I used both a 22kohm load (rating for the bitone input impedance) and a 560ohm load via Chad's suggestion. In this test, TrueRTA was used as the tone generator playing 1000hz, running into the headunit via AUX input. The RCAs from the headunit were ran into the oscope.
  9. The most stinging part about all of this?... I paid about $105 to set up the SWI controls in my car ($63 for the OEM buttons, and $42 for the PAC swi-ps). I spent about 5 hours last weekend diagnosing my car's clock spring to no avail. I spent about 2 hours testing it on the bench to make sure it wasn't the pac piece itself. Was going to spend the majority of my day tomorrow doing more testing on the clock spring. Then I saw the receiver on e-bay for $40, and just ordered my remote for $45 as well. So, I would have saved $20 and at least 7 hours if I had waited a week. Go figure, ri
  10. Wow... just wow... So, last week I ordered the civic OEM steering wheel audio control buttons so that I could outfit my car with steering wheel controls, JUST so I could have some form to control this unit other than by hand. I've had remotes all my life, so not having one on this was a PITA. I spent last weekend wiring up the PAC SWI-PS and couldn't get it to work due to issues with the car's clock spring. Bypassing the clock spring, however, it works just fine. Tomorrow was my 'troubleshooting day' for the clockspring to figure out what the heck is going on. Then, I come her
  • Create New...