xsdbs

have you tried (Tom) @Beach auto sound theyve been around a long time.

I don't know about anyone else but I think caps are an overmarketed pile. the money should be put elsewhere such as mentioned by xploder ( the big 3) however I would first start with a upgraded ground from the batt to frame and chasis. I have had alot of success with just that upgrade alone. being a 2007 vehicle the battery should be ok but I would have it tested also.

I talked to the tech at bypasskits yesterday and after a few try this and try that we came up with the conclusion that the 2008 saab 9-7x has a different factory security system and that they do not plan on a firmware update on this vehicle as of now. this xk01 works on the 2006-07 just fine but something has changed in 08. we ended up with 3 fixes: 1) to use the xk01 and program it for platform #4 instead of #1. what happened here is that the rs system works fine and locks/ unlocks the doors etc, however the factory security does not arm up unless the door lock switch is pressed while the do

I'll have to give their techs a call to check it out. seem the passkey 3 signal is working because the vehicle does start and on most the pk3 systems I have worked on in the past if the signal wasn't correct or the ant ring not positioned right the car would power up but have no crank. maybe theres 2 signals or posibly a longer signal. I'll get back tomorrow and let you guys know what I find out. I was trying to keep from having to use the key in the box method, that key is $125 cause the factory keyless entry is on it also. thanks again guys

thanks I'll go disconnect that real quick and see what happens. when I was testing the ign switch I noticed that there were 2 yellows 1 for starter and the other had 12 volts even when in crank and did not drop out like the brown/ radio acc wire does so I fiqured it needed to be powered up similar to the need of the white being powered up for trans circuit. be back to let yu know. thanks again ok well I disconnected the yellow power, triggered the rs and the light stayed on. I inserted the key and it went out same as before so thinking YEAH alwright now, I started it up by rs again le

thanks I'll go disconnect that real quick and see what happens. when I was testing the ign switch I noticed that there were 2 yellows 1 for starter and the other had 12 volts even when in crank and did not drop out like the brown/ radio acc wire does so I fiqured it needed to be powered up similar to the need of the white being powered up for trans circuit. be back to let yu know. thanks again

when I do remote start, if I put the key in the ign within say 'bout 1-2 minutes the light the light does go out however if I wait longer and then put the key in the light stays on. if I either cancel the remote start either by pressing the brake or by the fob and then restart the vehicle with the ign key the light comes on at start up then goes out the way it should normally. for programming I used platform 1 and then in mode I programmed for priority door unlock. for wiring I had: ign 1- pink ign 2- white ign 3- yellow acc - orange starter- yellow I did not do the relay to the br

I know this site is mostly for pioneer nav systems but I realize there's alot of smart installers here also so here's my question. has anyone installed a remote start on a 2008 Saab 9-7x? I am installing one in a friends 9-7x and using the bypasskits module xk01 origrammed to the amdl6. it all works, locks. unlocks, a/da of factory alarm, starts fine but the problem is that when the vehicle is remote started the factory alarm/ vehicle lock indicator on the inst cluster comes on and stays on even afer disarm & unlocking the vehicle and inserting the factory key. this seems to have something

naw, it's too dangerous out there in detroit and besides I'm a family man now with 2 young ones, need to be here for them. now just a dumb ? what does the j/k at the end mean. I still trying to get all these acronyms together

now why would you say that? we all know that is illegal, besides all the local corners are already taken.

after only 7 yrs at the place I 've been at I was told yesterday that I was being laid off and could maybe able to come back if business picks up. seems some companies want to pay more people lower wages than those that have experiance. I was talking to a shop owner just today and after looking at my app he toldme that I was over qualified. now that really sucks, I mean you do the best you can, stay open minded to suggestions, are good with customers and do quality work with hardly any complaints and now you are over qualified and told " heck I can get 2 people for what you want to get paid".

hello, anyone out there? I was sure I could get an answer here.

hello, I am sure that this topic may be here somewhere but I am not sure where to look, I fiqured this forum would be the best place to ask, is there a safe website that I can download and burn movies free. some sites say free but then they want to charge a membership charge, is this normal? I have heard some of these sites can harm your computer. also can someone explain the different versions of video, I have seen different acronyms like avi, torrent etc. thanks for any help you may be able to offer.

huh

yes thats what they wanted to make us happy and to keep some engineer from profiting off them

ummm, with some carmel

you could try schosche, someone here may have the phone # or you could look it up online ( sorry, I usually use metra parts ) also I'm not sure but american international is another kitting company. good luck.

alot of the german cars need a special ant adaptor that needs powers for the factory ant module. you should ask the "professionals" what type of ant ant adaptor they used and then call 1800 221 0932 ( metra) and compare the part # they give you. the powered ant adaptors are generally 25-$40.

not all components are compatible to each other. there are resolution, signal voltages, power supplies and ground specs. you could also have interference that is a radiated signal. some here may remember back in the late 80's and early 90's in ford trucks they had and ign harness that came accross the back side of the radio cavity that created a hell of a whine when the engine was running, when you pulled the radio out about 4-6 inches the noise went away and no type of power filter or ground loop isolator would remove the noise. the factory radio would not give off the noise at the same level

both my hands

I have seen some units in the past where a video signal was too high in the voltage signal from the dvd player for the inputs of monitors from a different supplier. with this problem it was needed to open up the signal rca to get to the center lead and then inserted a 1 k ohm resistor to drop the signal voltage. this could be your issue. also the signal could be incompatible with your other manu' products. have you tried a video amp to see if this would help, you would most likely need the amp when you add the extra monitors that you plan on adding. you need to try other options ( possibilitie

bump bump bump, damn headboard

anyone seen my country bump-kin

didn't think I'd bump into you here. you bump here often?

the powering up of the ant module is not actually powering up an ant amp. it is used to keep the high current voltage separated from the ant signal. it also adds some db gain to the signal. this gain is not the same as trying to amplify a weak static signal. the question is does the AM come in clean but seems to fade in and out or is it all static. on the mustang I would suggest ohming the center lead from end to end, and to check for a shorted center lead to ground ( both ends need to be disconnected for this test). ohm out the shield for a good ground to the shield. also in the mustang I bel