Scooter80 Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 [quote name="03Aviator"]Duke...now I'm confused. I have an Aviator with one sub amp...and it is indeed enclosed in the entire sub unit like yours. Now, and this is totally from memory mind you...my Z1 only has one sub turn on lead. It also has an antenna turn on lead for the antenna amp or power antenna...but I remember only ONE lead for the amp turn on and that is the one you put your 5v regulator into. Now, the Z1 has TWO RCA leads out of it for the sub amp. One is left and one is right. However, since it's a mono signal, you can use just one. Just for grins and giggles, I had a two into one RCA adapter I used. This lead I plugged into the wiring harness adapter. That harness had only ONE lead for the sub amp. I used the factory grounds by connecting them to the appropriate pin in the factory harness through the harness adapter. If I recall, I did ground the sub (it has a separate ground in the factory harness) using the sub ground wire in the harness adapter. I wish I could find the email I sent to Ducatiboy about this. It was specific in detail to exactly what I did. He and I used slightly different methods of hooking up the sub...and both work fine. I hope you get it worked out and you've found your problem![/quote] Yeah, I think you have the wrong idea Aviator. We know the Z1 harness has one lead each for amp and antenna, but the Metra (or other brands like Crutchfield, etc.) harnesses for the F150 and for the Mustang (maybe more as well) have two turn-on leads. I think that is what he meant. I know for sure mine does. I had to use both though because I had two amps (one in each door with the 8" subs). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
03Aviator Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Ahh...thanks for the clarification. So what you're saying is the adapter harness splits out two leads for amps from the one lead from the Z1? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scooter80 Posted July 31, 2006 Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Precisely. Except that you actually have to connect the two leads as they are separate on the harness. But, yes, once you do that it esentially splits the one to two. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F150 Duke Posted August 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2006 I'll update tonight when I try and ground that wire. I just haven't had time to do it over the weekend. Duke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F150 Duke Posted August 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 Well I grounded the black wire coming from the OEM harness and so far so good (knock on wood). The sub hasn't crackled nor cut out and stoped working. I'm so glad this project is done. This thread will be a huge help to anyone with a Ford vehicle and OEM sub. This gives the wiring diagram for the sub, the correct way to reduce voltage from the aftermarket headunit to prevent sub thump, and the correct way to make sure the OEM sub doesn't give you performance problems. Duke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
03Aviator Posted August 3, 2006 Report Share Posted August 3, 2006 I'm sure glad I grounded that wire when I installed mine. It just made sense to do so. Your problem would have driven me nuts!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkeat Posted August 30, 2008 Report Share Posted August 30, 2008 FYI for anyone searching this post. I had a similar problem with my 2004 Ford Explorer, but instead of crackling I had a rhythmic tick coming from the sub (i believe it is called an ignition tick?). I also had a whine that went up in pitch when the engine accelerated. I tried using a ground loop isolator and a noise filter for the power lead but they didn't work. Thanks to this post, I looked at the OEM side of the harness for the black wire and grounded it. The Metra side of the harness did not have a wire corresponding with the black wire on the OEM side (what the F*&# Metra?!!!). Anyway, grounding the wire solved my problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F150 Duke Posted September 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 Wow, blast from the past.....yeah this was a joyous problem when I first had this. What a major pain in the but and I'm so glad it's over! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Josiah Posted September 13, 2008 Report Share Posted September 13, 2008 what do you mean the OEM harness. There is a floating black wire in the F150's factory installed harness, or do you meant the Metra harness made for our F150. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ae Posted September 13, 2008 Report Share Posted September 13, 2008 I cant believe all these people are telling you to check for moisture or bad grounds!!!!!! Its simple, your ford wants to see 5v not 12v.Put a 3k resistor on the remote,or remotes and this will drop it down to the correct voltage.Which means no pop!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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