Bypass Question - different route

[Methosan]

Ok.. so I've been reading all these posts on many different forums

about the bypassing and they're all the same:

 

Pull the wiring harness out and move the wire around.

 

Well, not only am I not comfortable with doing this I don't want to

do this.

 

Wouldn't it work just the same if you took the wire that connects

to the e-brake sensor wire, wired it into a switch, and hooked a wire to a

hotwire or permanent ground, or something. I know enough about

household electricity not to be a complete tool here, but I haven't done

much work on vehicles and their wirings. Having the over-ride on a

switch would allow the unit to work perfectly and be "untampered".

Having the bypass on a switch would be fantastic if one has the tendency

of getting pulled over frequently (which I don't, but still).

If I lent my truck out I would just not inform the person of a

bypass' existance.

 

Someone had talked about having installed a switch to fool cops in

addition to flipping the wire in the harness, but couldn't that switch

be it and all? Yes, it would add a switch somewhere -if you couldn't

hide it- that was visible, but with if you already have extra switches for

extra lights or accessories, would fit in nicely.

 

If you have nothing intelligent to add or to comment don't post

anything at all in response to my post, please (anti-troll disclaimer).

 

Ta!

 

PS. The post under mine had the same question but the thread went

to hell in a handbasket - nor was any concrete direction given beyond

"oh yeah it'll work but why bother". Since it works, could someone tell

me where can I run a wire from the switch in a Super Duty Ford F250?

[HiFiSi]

No. Sure, the unit will think the parking brake is on. But the unit is also receiving information via the VSS wire and navigation satellites that the vehicle is in motion, and will lock you out. You HAVE TO move that mute wire up one slot and ground it. There is NO other alternative. If you want the unit bypassed, you have no choice.

 

You can still install a switch on the parking brake wire if you want to, to turn the bypass on and off. Which is what the other topic you were talking about was discussing, not how to bypass the unit without moving/grounding the mute wire. You have to ground both wires for the bypass to work, not just the parking brake wire.

[Methosan]

I see. Thank you for the response.

 

One thing no one has seemed to mention for us less-capable-in-

vehicle-av-and-wiring, is where does one ground the wire once you

move it one slot higher? You also have to get a new run of 18 ga

wire for this purpose, right?

 

Thank you

[HiFiSi]

Anywhere you can screw/bolt it to the metal of the car. Probably you can just find an existing bolt behind the dash board to ground it to. The existing mute wire length should be plenty for that.

 

The recommended way to do it is to take the radio's ground wire (black wire), the mute wire, and the parking brake wire, and ground all 3 of them to a bolt or screw on the car's body somewhere. And if you still want the ability to disable the bypass, just wire in a toggle switch on either the mute wire or the parking brake wire.

[smooth_caramel]

....why does the mute need to be grounded?

 

I just thought the empty slot needed to be grounded (along with the PB). You can put any wire in the empty slot, it doesn't have to be the mute wire, right?

 

 

I'm actually about to do this for a D1, but I assume the process is the same. Ground the empty slot & PB. I'm not sure why the mute needs to be grounded though.

[whtcrxghst]

Correct

 

....why does the mute need to be grounded?

 

I just thought the empty slot needed to be grounded (along with the PB). You can put any wire in the empty slot, it doesn't have to be the mute wire, right?

[smooth_caramel]

Hey thnx for the quick reply!

[Methosan]

I spoke with the installer today and he informed me, unofficially, that

the bypass had already been done, by them, because with the harness

they use for a Super-Duty Ford - supposedly the GPS would seize

to work past 35-mph.

 

Alledgedly all I need to now do is take the e-brake wire and ground it, or,

preferably, put a switch on it and ground it.

Will attempt this probably on Sunday.

[HiFiSi]

^ that's pretty cool of them.

 

Yeah, you don't have to use the mute wire to do the bypass. It can be any wire, really. It's just that almost all installations never use the mute wire so that's the one that's suggested to be moved to that slot and grounded.

[TiMsDC5]

well last night i installed a switch, but i installed the switch to the VSS. NOW it works, but here comes the issue:

 

1st it only works for a good 5 minutes and then it cuts off and i gotta hit the switch and do it again, and i believe i found the answer to this from above, it gets the signal from the GPS antenna saying im in motion.

 

2nd the GPS Navi is incorrect, when the switch is "off" (*means the VSS wire is not communicating with the head unit, and it's confused and you'll be doing donuts on the map...

 

So some of you guys might say, "Why didn't he just do the bypass." well i got the damn wire out... but couldn't get the b!tch in... and broke off the tab... and messed everything up, so if what i read is true i should be able to add another tip, and plug it in and ground the three wires right?

[madsonp]

Remove the switch from the VSS wire, this isn't going to do you any good. As far as the mute wire you broke, find another unused wire in your harness and pull that one and put it where you'd put the mute wire, and becareful this time. then you ground the green parking brake wire and the mute wire. I wouldn't even mess with the switch if I was you. When you're finished, it should look like this. http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7998

[HiFiSi]

Yep. It doesn't HAVE TO be the mute wire. it can be any unused wire on the RCA output harness (not the power/speaker wire harness) because they all have the same pin on them.