bobsyouruncle Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 VSS / speed pulse is purple with white stripe on the PAC harness & i think it is pink on the avic harness. that's what i meant by using the wiring diagrams and hooking up one at a time and not just trusting the colors. Find VSS on stereo harness, then go find VSS on PAC. Then match those colors together and connect. and since you are using the PAC and VSS is right there, go ahead and use it. your tracking will be more accurate. The colors on the sub rca's don't matter. Only one is used on the shaker 500. I don't remember which. The other isn't hooked up to anything in the wiring in the car unless you have the shaker 1000. Even then, they get the same signal so it doesn't matter. Just hook them both up to avoid loose wires. a soldering iron is a good investment. the things are cheap and last pretty much forever. and now that you have one you will be surprised at how many times you use it. I don't even bother getting out the heat gun for heat shrink. I just use a cigaretta lighter. Shrinks it up in just a couple of seconds. you aren't trying to make the connections in the dash are you? Dude, doing it outside the car is so much easier. Also, be sure to pull the ground cable off the battery before you start plugging and unplugging. The chance of blowing something is slim, but there is still a chance. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number_47 Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 VSS / speed pulse is purple with white stripe on the PAC harness & i think it is pink on the avic harness. that's what i meant by using the wiring diagrams and hooking up one at a time and not just trusting the colors. Find VSS on stereo harness, then go find VSS on PAC. Then match those colors together and connect. and since you are using the PAC and VSS is right there, go ahead and use it. your tracking will be more accurate. I had already connected the VSS from the PAC (purple with white stripe) to the Reverse Gear Signal Input on the Z3. Should I attach the pink VSS to these two as well? Or should the Reverse Gear Signal on the Z3 have gone to the Reverse Light on the PAC (Green wire)? you aren't trying to make the connections in the dash are you? Dude, doing it outside the car is so much easier. Oh yes, I do it outside the car. It was a relief to find that I could do it this way. I expected to sit crunched in the car all weekend long.. and with the temperatures being in the 100s, that would be unbearable! I believe this pink cable is the last one I'm missing, and then I should be done. Thanks! Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobsyouruncle Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 Like I said, you can't always trust the wire colors to match from one harness to the other. Match functions first then find the color in each harnes that goes to that function and put the wires together. it is the actiual function of the wire that has to match, not necessarily the color of the wire. look at the wiring below. The bold items are the ones that do NOT color match from the pac harnes to the avic harness. hook it up just like this and it will work fine. PAC HArness-----------------------AVIC HArness Illumination (Orange/White)---------Orange/white (lighting) +12v Acc.1 AMP max (Red)-----------Red (switched power) Amp Turn-On (Blue/White)------------Blue/white (amp turn on) Reverse Light (Green)-------------Violet/white (REVERSEGEAR SIGNAL INPUT) VSS (Purple/White)-----------------Pink (VSS) Parking Brake (Red/White)---------Light green (parking brake) Right Rear + (Purple)------------------Right Rear + (Purple) Right Rear - (Purple/Black)------------Right Rear - (Purple/Black) Left Rear + (Green)--------------------Left Rear + (Green) Left Rear - (Green/Black)--------------Left Rear - (Green/Black) Front Left + (White)--------------------Front Left + (White) Front Left - (White/Black)--------------Front Left - (White/Black) Front Right + (Grey)--------------------Front Right + (Grey) Front Right - (Grey/Black)--------------Front Right - (Grey/Black) SWC Output (White/Green)------------****steering wheel controls Not used-in mustang. insulate the end. Battery (Yellow)-------------------------Yellow constant 12v Ground (Black)--------------------------Black (ground) Antenna (Blue)--------------------------Blue(power antenna relay not used on mustang) **** ------------------------------------Yellow/black (not used unles bypassing or adding options) insulate the end Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number_47 Posted August 18, 2008 Report Share Posted August 18, 2008 Thanks man! That was very helpful! That took care of the last couple of "issues" I had. The Z3 is now installed, and works great! Took your advice on the heating gun too, a lighter works just as good! I appreciate all the help, I know I would not have been able to install it myself, without it! Tom Like I said, you can't always trust the wire colors to match from one harness to the other. Match functions first then find the color in each harnes that goes to that function and put the wires together. it is the actiual function of the wire that has to match, not necessarily the color of the wire. look at the wiring below. The bold items are the ones that do NOT color match from the pac harnes to the avic harness. hook it up just like this and it will work fine. PAC HArness-----------------------AVIC HArness Illumination (Orange/White)---------Orange/white (lighting) +12v Acc.1 AMP max (Red)-----------Red (switched power) Amp Turn-On (Blue/White)------------Blue/white (amp turn on) Reverse Light (Green)-------------Violet/white (REVERSEGEAR SIGNAL INPUT) VSS (Purple/White)-----------------Pink (VSS) Parking Brake (Red/White)---------Light green (parking brake) Right Rear + (Purple)------------------Right Rear + (Purple) Right Rear - (Purple/Black)------------Right Rear - (Purple/Black) Left Rear + (Green)--------------------Left Rear + (Green) Left Rear - (Green/Black)--------------Left Rear - (Green/Black) Front Left + (White)--------------------Front Left + (White) Front Left - (White/Black)--------------Front Left - (White/Black) Front Right + (Grey)--------------------Front Right + (Grey) Front Right - (Grey/Black)--------------Front Right - (Grey/Black) SWC Output (White/Green)------------****steering wheel controls Not used-in mustang. insulate the end. Battery (Yellow)-------------------------Yellow constant 12v Ground (Black)--------------------------Black (ground) Antenna (Blue)--------------------------Blue(power antenna relay not used on mustang) **** ------------------------------------Yellow/black (not used unles bypassing or adding options) insulate the end Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobsyouruncle Posted August 18, 2008 Report Share Posted August 18, 2008 No problem. Always glad to help a fellow Mustang owner out. Glad it worked out for you. Enjoy. Now just wait to you really start to crank the volume up and wear out those cheap 8" subs in the doors. There isn't a single piece of my factory shaker 1000 left in the car except for sub enclosure in the trunk. I've replaced it all. Quite the adventure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatchMeIfYouCan631 Posted August 18, 2008 Report Share Posted August 18, 2008 my fiance wants to upgrade from that POS system, whatd you put in place of the 8" subs...did you have to make a custom mounting bracket? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobsyouruncle Posted August 18, 2008 Report Share Posted August 18, 2008 I used the kicker ssmb8. It's actually a midbass driver, but works fine. I had to drill a custom hole pattern out of the mounting frame on the speaker to get it in the door and to mount factory grill back on (for stock appearance). I would rather risk buggering up a speaker I can easily replace than screwing up a door panel that will set me back 5 bills to replace. Finding an 8" driver shallow enough used to be near impossible, but there are quite a few available now. Mounting depth is something like 3-5/8", I think. The diameter of the magnet on the back of the driver is important too. The enclosure in the door gets pretty narrow towards the back. I think I might still have some notes I took doing my research and putting it all together. I'll look sometime if you're interested. The big problem is driving the speaker. the factory door sub is a dual voice coil sub. Each coil has something like 1.6 ohms resistance. the amp for the speaker is a dual channel amp. it's actually made from 2 dual channel amplifier IC's, but each circuit is bridged internally from the factory, so you can't bridge the factory two channel OUTPUT from the amp to pump all of its power into a single voice coil driver. It just doesn't work. Good luck finding a 2 ohm, dual voice coil, 8" inch shallow sub or midbass driver. Running a 4 ohm single voice coil sub off of one channel of the factory amp will yield you maybe 14-18 watts. Not very impressive AT ALL. My solution - I "retasked" 2 of the 4 single channel amps from the shaker 1000 from my trunk to under the dash. That took some figuring to make it all work and fit. those amps are rated by ford at 125 watts each into 4 ohms, my best guess is maybe 40-50 watts of real power. The kickers hit plenty hard though. Side mirrors are useless when cranked. just a blur. The JL Audio amp and subs now in the trunk make for a very well rounded system that still looks bone stock, except fot the nav unit anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatchMeIfYouCan631 Posted August 18, 2008 Report Share Posted August 18, 2008 gotchaaa....ya man if you can find the notes on the maximum basket size i can use thatd be awesome as far as the stock amps go, i was gonna do away with the entire ford system and use aftermarket multi channel amps. im upgrading my speakers too, but right now im still in the middle of researching....i have 9" subs on my doors and the only component speaker set that comes close to that is Dynaudio with 8" woofers...but that 6 speaker set goes for like $7-800 http://cgi.ebay.com/DYNAUDIO-SYSTEM360- ... 18Q2el1247 ...thats jus for the front...the rear set is like 500. so even tho you get what you pay for, im tryin to find something like that a little cheaper otherwise it will be a while before my speakers get ripped out. and thats not counting the 2 w6's, amps, and custom enclosures. any suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobsyouruncle Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 Is this for the mustang? Or are you talking about your car? RX-8 was it? What year? What all have you done? How far are you willing to go? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatchMeIfYouCan631 Posted August 19, 2008 Report Share Posted August 19, 2008 im talkin about the rx8. its an 05 with the bose system. idk how far ill go TBH.. and all i have done is the f700bt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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