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z2 to replace shaker 500 in 06 mustang?


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Cheapest Ive found it - $75 + 7 shipping

http://www.ambientweather.com/ptpacc2rfrd1.html

 

http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=1254746

 

Bought mine there.

Arrived and works... Just don't expect much in the way of customer service...

 

And yes, the page does say 2007-208, but that PAC harness workss for 2004-2008 (even some '03's).

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I bought the upgreded hard drive from garrettoomy which had the software updates already in it , then did the two wire bypass. Works great.

 

Executioner and mroaches: Where did you guys place the GPS antenna, and how is it working for you guys? I'm installing a Z3 in my 06 GT this weekend, and I'm not sure whether to take it all the way back to the rear window, put it up front or what..

 

Thanks,

Tom

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If your '06 is late in the production cycle, you may have a nice factory "platform" to mount the antenna too. If its from early in the model year, you can mount it right above the instrument cluster inside the dash.

 

The instrument cluster is insanely easy to remove. Just pop out the dash trim on it (it's just held in with clips) and remove 4 screws. really is the easiest way to get to the stuff.

 

see the attached pdfs to help you out.

factory gps antenna placement.pdf

clusterremove.pdf

05-early 06 gps ant placement.pdf

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Thanks guys! That is very helpful! I think I will look for that shelf or use the area under the instrument cluster. The signal should be good enough, even if it's covered like that, right?

 

I'm feeling a little intimidated by all this. I got one of the PAC harnesses today, which I thought would make it super easy to install, but there's a lot of wires on there! Hopefully when I get started, things will fall into place..

 

Tom

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Correct, there are quite a few wires in the PAC you won"t need for a mustang

No rear seat entertainment option in a mustang to hook up. No steering wheel controls. Mine didn't even have the factory line in option. No power antenna either. also you won't be using the parking brake lead from the PAC if you are going to be bypassing.

 

I actually removed all the unneeded wires from the harnesses to cut down on the clutter. Not that I would recommend that unless you really know what you are doing.

 

I say you did the right thing with the PAC. you DID save yourself quite a bit of time. you can hook up EVERYTHING on the bench and just plug and play the harnesses in the car. really is that simple. man, I am so glad I found that harness.

 

Oh - and take your time making all of your connections. do them right the first time. any time you save rushing through it will be lost when you have to pull it out to redo it.

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Ok I have couple of other somewhat stupid question:

 

-How do you guys attach the wires to each other? I got these "butt connectors" from Radioshack (16-14 gauge), but I'm not sure if those are right. I also have some tap-in squeeze connectors, which looks like they could work?

 

-Should I just pair up all the cables I find that do match? And it's ok if the shade of green is a just a little bit different than the green I'm attaching it to?

 

This is my first attempt ever to install something electronic in my car, so I hope you can forgive my questions here.

 

Finally (hah! Right), where did you guys with Mustangs put the grounding plugs? Anywhere on that metal frame that surrounds the ac/navigation/stereo area?

 

I must say the car came apart really easy. I was afraid I was going to have to use a lot more force. The worst part was getting the center console piece over the hand brake, but I do have a metal cover for it, so that's probably what caused that.

 

Again, thanks for your help bobsyouruncle and CatchMeIfYouCan631!

 

Tom

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butt connectors will work in a pinch... pardon the pun, but i really prefer soldering the connections and using heat shrink tubing on them. Butt connectors can and do come loose over time if the crimp is not just right. make sure you use the right crimp tool for the connector and give them a little tug to make sure they are secure. you don' t really have to worry about soldered connections. either it's soldered or it isn't. Soldered and shrinked just looks neater in my opinion as well.

 

Don't rely on the color coding of the wires to to be perfect. get out the wiring diagrams that came with the harness and the radio. Match up the functions one wire at a time and make the connections one at a time. check each one twice before you hook it up, the old measure twice cut once adage.

 

There is a ground in the factory harness that connects to the ground in the PAC harness. It will work fine. It's rated to handle more than you'll ever pull with this unit.

 

Yeah, the e-brake is a bitch to snake through the console when you're taking it off. If you have a metal handle, it's probably easier than the factory grip. It's rubber and grabs on the rubber on the console opening. Put a little tire shine on the metal handle before you reinstall and it should slide on a lot easier.

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the center console came right off IMO. i pulled that ebrake as high as it would go though, and it was a pain getting it back down

 

what pissed me off the most, and im sure youll agree, was those 2 damn plugs that had to be disconnected for the temperature functions

 

Yes! I cut my hand on some metal piece trying to take that plug out by reaching behind the console. When I got it further out, I finally saw how to remove that plug.

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I went out and got a soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun. While I am enjoying this more than I thought, I prefer to do it just once! :)

 

Does the Car Speed Signal Input get used for anything? I haven't been able to find a wire for it on the PAC unit. Looking at the harness inside the car, I see a pink wire going to it, but that's it.

 

Also, the subwoofer cables on the PAC are green and purple, does it matter which goes into the red/white cables that came with the Z3?

 

Thanks for your help!

Tom

 

 

butt connectors will work in a pinch... pardon the pun, but i really prefer soldering the connections and using heat shrink tubing on them. Butt connectors can and do come loose over time if the crimp is not just right. make sure you use the right crimp tool for the connector and give them a little tug to make sure they are secure. you don' t really have to worry about soldered connections. either it's soldered or it isn't. Soldered and shrinked just looks neater in my opinion as well.

 

Don't rely on the color coding of the wires to to be perfect. get out the wiring diagrams that came with the harness and the radio. Match up the functions one wire at a time and make the connections one at a time. check each one twice before you hook it up, the old measure twice cut once adage.

 

There is a ground in the factory harness that connects to the ground in the PAC harness. It will work fine. It's rated to handle more than you'll ever pull with this unit.

 

Yeah, the e-brake is a bitch to snake through the console when you're taking it off. If you have a metal handle, it's probably easier than the factory grip. It's rubber and grabs on the rubber on the console opening. Put a little tire shine on the metal handle before you reinstall and it should slide on a lot easier.

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