forevr5688 Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 I have a bazooka amp and two subs in my trunk. Before I got the D3, I had the stock radio with a Line Output Convertor connected to my amp. I could blast radio for long periods of time and the amp would never overheat or cut off. Since I installed the D3, I no longer use the LOC and just use the outputs of the D3. It's happening more and more recently now, but I can't run at high volume for more than 10min or my subs will stop working. I don't think it's my amp because it wasn't that hot. If I ever overheated my amp, it would turn off to protect itself and would turn on again after it cooled down. What I am experincing is after about 10 min of running at a high volume, audio through the subs stops. The only way to get it working again is to turn off the car and turn it on again. I'm not sure if the radio has something in it that does that but the only way to fix it is to turn off the car and turn it back on again. Is there a protection mechanism in the D3 that would cause this? Could my D3 be getting to hot? Please help. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phlame217 Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 I have a feeling that your amp is the issue... It probably has a mute circuit and a heat protect circuit. The levels you're playing may not cause overheat, but may be causeing an amp overload tripping the mute circuit which resets upon losing power... This is probably due to the higher clarity of the D3 signal versus the line out signal from the converter... try not to go deaf. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
forevr5688 Posted July 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 I originally thought it was my amp but what causes me to believe that it is the D3 instead is the fact that I have to turn my car off in order to get it to work. In all my experience with amps, anytime they trip, they uses come back on once it cools down or once the load is lower than the limit. I think it's the radio because it's the only thing I can't turn off while the car is on. You can try to turn it off but it's never really turned off. Also, the gain on the amp is at half way and I only had the volume up around 23 on the D3 when this happens. It's no where near full blast. I will try to do a little more troubleshooting. I just wanted to see if anyone knew if there was anything in the D3 that could cause this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatchMeIfYouCan631 Posted July 19, 2008 Report Share Posted July 19, 2008 do you have a capacitor?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phlame217 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Well next time it happens, turn the D3 off via the off option in the AV menu. This will turn off the remote turn-on therefore turning off the amp. Then turn it back on. This will truly show if its the HU or Amp. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
forevr5688 Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Thanks. I will try that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HiFiSi Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Well next time it happens, turn the D3 off via the off option in the AV menu. This will turn off the remote turn-on therefore turning off the amp. Then turn it back on. This will truly show if its the HU or Amp. No, it will not turn off the remote turn-on lead. The only way to cut power to the system remote wire is by turning off the D3. There is no other way. Aside from wiring a switch in that wire. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CatchMeIfYouCan631 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 this happened to me in my lancer, same situation. only for me it would cut out depending on the song. songs with a moderate level of bass would play fine but when songs with loud bass played the amp would cut out and id have to turn the car off and on to get it working again Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Itsyaboyjay Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 I would say to check the wiring of your subs. Make sure they are wired at an impendence that your amp is stable at. When I bought my alpine amp to upgrade the profile amp I had, my subs would turn off at a certain volume and the amp would go into protect even though it wasn't hot. The subs hit wayy harder with the cheaper amp. Turns out the subs were wired at .5ohms when my amp is stable down to 2ohms. Wired them correctly and havent had a problem since. Hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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