smonserr Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 I had the same problem doing the bypass. I accidentally ripped the wire out of the slot and a piece of the metal stayed in. Finally I got it out and my harness looked like yours and I was still able to salvage it. What i did was stripe the covering of the mute wire and put the bare wire into the slot as far as I could and taped it to keep it in place. did the ground and my system works great. you don't need the metal piece it just keeps it place. I didnt read all the comments so maybe this doesnt help at all but good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drzy Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Again, thanks all. I'm down to one final question. I used the razor blade method to move the pin. It's not as easy as seen in the YouTube video... I have no idea how that guy did that in a minute. But I did get it done, and all that's left is the grounding part. As chad711 said earlier, Step #2 is just basically telling you that you need to ground out those wires. So basically there is a ground wire on your cable connector. Just connect the two wires and connect them to the ground wire. You need to splice the wire to get to the actual wire itself. They best way for me was to get these "tap in wire connectors". This is much simpler then splicing the wire and then braiding the wires together. You just simply put the wire in the tap in and squeeze them down. It will then "Tap in" to the wire. I'm still not clear on how to connect the wires. Are all three wires (yellow, green, black) supposed to connect in one place? How could you use a tap-in wire connector to do that? Also, does it matter where the wires are tied? I'd hate to tie them together and then have the installer tell me he couldn't make the wires go where they're supposed to go because there wasn't enough slack. I hate to sound like an idiot, but if anyone could really spell out the process for this, I'd really appreciate it. I mean really, really spell it out. Assume I know absolutely nothing about how to do this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawgbone Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Just cut them and splice them together using whatever means.... The parking brake wire is super long... You don't need all that wire.... get rid of it... I just cut back a small piece of the insulation on my ground wire... wrapped the parking brake and mute wire around it... soldered it...then protected it with heat shrink.... then just ground the ground wire... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drzy Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks dawgbone. In addition to cutting the insulation on the ground wire, I'd have to do it for the parking brake and mute wires too, right? And tie them all together in the same location? I made a handy diagram. Does this look right? When you say "then just ground the ground wire..." , is that something I do or the installer does? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawgbone Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Your installer will ground the ground wire.... This is what it should look like... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drzy Posted January 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks again man, I really appreciate the help. I think I understand now, but just to be 100% perfectly clear, the parking break and mute wires end at the ground wire, right? Meaning, the ends in circles 1 and 3 in the picture above won't be used. Correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawgbone Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Yes... all 3 need to be grounded... as to how you do it, it doesn't matter... Since the Unit's ground(black wire) has to be grounded for it to ever power on... You might as well tap into that wire for the PB and mute... Instead of running 3 different wires to the same place... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drzy Posted January 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Do the wires need to soldered together, or is it enough to just wrap them around each other? If I do need to solder the wires, I've never done that before. I was watching some YouTube videos on how to do it, and it looks like you need some actual solder compound to apply... I thought you just heated the wires up until they melted together. Is that solder necessary, or can you make wires hot enough to melt them together without solder? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawgbone Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 You can't melt the wires together... You have to use solder... Go to Radio Shack(or Walmart) and buy a cheapo soldering iron and some solder.... Heat the iron up and put the tip of the solder wire to the tip of the iron... It's pretty much self explanatory from there... Just remember to put your heat shrink on first... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drzy Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Dawgbone, thanks for all your help on this, there's no way I could've done this without you. Here's the final product. I cut the green and yellow wires at their ends and exposed them, exposed a section of the black wire, and wrapped the exposed portions of the green and yellow wires around the exposed black wire. I didn't actually use solder because for whatever reason I couldn't get it working on the wires I was practicing on, but I don't think it'll be a problem because there's no way the wires will ever come apart. I then applied the heat shrink and used the soldering gun to shrink the wrap around the wires. It's a nice, tight fit. That's not exactly the order of steps you told me to use, nor is it even exactly what you said, but I think the important parts are all set. I'm just going to wrap the hell out of it in electrical tape tomorrow before I take it in at 11 am for the install. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ferendon Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Get some 18ga primary wire, strip back about 3", cut off about half of the strands, and twist the others up thin and tight. You can push it through the hole in the connector, and force the jacket into the hole to hold it in place. Cut the copper wiring off as flush to the connector as you can. Take what's left of the copper strands sticking out of the harness, and bend it flat against the head of the connector, away from the other row of pins. You don't even have to remove the mute wire. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dawgbone Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Looks good to me.... Solder is just the "right" way to do things... It's a re-assurance that things won't come apart down the road... Your's should hold up fine though... Just don't tug on it too hard... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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