Jump to content
AVIC411.com

New Radio Keeps reseting/restarting when bass is turned up


Recommended Posts

Ok confirmed it last night I hooked the red to the battery and plays fine no restarts. So if I hook the Yellow for the relay to the battery would that fix it?

I was going to do more testing but when I got home the battery in the car was dead so I had to charge it for a few hours and by that time it was bedtime.

 

Thanks

Shelby

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 39
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok that definitely the problem now there is only one thing to figure out if the radio is shutting off or if it is the harness that is shutting off, i would run a new power wire and connect it directly to the radio's yellow wire, then get power from that wire going into the relay, then use the red wire from the harness to trigger the wire and use the output of the relay to the avic's red wire

 

 

 

RELAY

86-ground

85-red wire coming from the aftermarket harness

87a- not used

87 power wire from battery

30-red wire from AVIC

 

if it still shuts off while hooked up this way then it was the harness that is cutting off and not the radio, the only way to fix this would be to tap terminal 85 into the ACC wire at the ignition switch, you will lose the retained ACC power feature this way (radio stays on until the door is opened)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I confirmed it tonight if I hook the yellow wire to the battery the radio still reboots.

If I hook the red wire to the battery it never reboots so you are correct! TY TY TY TY TY!!

Just one more question I still want the delayed shut off after the key is turned off and if I hook the reds like normal Pac Audio Red to Radio Red and then add another red from the fuse panel that is also switched it does not reboot and it still has the delayed shut off. I will not be blasting it when the key is turned off anyway.

So what would this hurt?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an 09 Mustang using the same pac harness and everything is working fine. The only thing that is different is that I have installed a sub woofer in the back. So the amp(apline) that powers that sub is plugged into the sub out on the pioneer, then off of that amp I run rca cable from the alpine pre amp out back up to the front and plug it into the pac harness so that the cars factory amp will still get sound to the front door subs. My only problem is because both amps use the same blue/white wire that switches on the amps when the radio is on I get the pop in the front door subs which the pac harness is suppose to fix and it did until I added the rear amp. So that harness and pioneer combo should work, I'm also thinking bad harness or maybe ground. You did say you got the PAC C2R-FRD1 harness right? which is about 100 dollars give or take. Also the relay you mention I assume is the one to get rid of the popping sound from the subs like what I get. You should not need any relay if your using the PAC C2R-FRD1 harness. The only reason I get the pop is because of the other amp I'm using. Down the road sometime I will replace the factory amp for those front subs. Oh and one other difference is I replaced those front subs with the shelby kicker subs that are made for the mustang, but I don't think that should matter.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah it is the pac c2r-frd1 and it powers the factory subs/amps fine but if I turn the sub woofer up to 6 in the HU and then turn up the volume with a song that has bass the radio reboots unless I get switched power directly from the fuse box or battery. Now I have replaced both the PAC unit and HU and still same results.

Link to post
Share on other sites
if I hook the reds like normal Pac Audio Red to Radio Red and then add another red from the fuse panel that is also switched it does not reboot and it still has the delayed shut off.

So what would this hurt?

as long as it is tapped into a ACC circuit in the fuse box and that circuit can supply the extra power for what you attach to it (which shouldn't be a problem since it doesn't really require too much power) it really shouldn't give you any trouble.

 

Also the relay you mention I assume is the one to get rid of the popping sound from the subs like what I get. You should not need any relay if your using the PAC C2R-FRD1 harness. The only reason I get the pop is because of the other amp I'm using.

 

the point of the relay is not to get rid of the amp popping, the ACC (red wire) output of the module on the harness can only output a very low amount of current, and some radio's need more than the module can output to turn on, the relay is to keep from over powering the module and burning it up (originally the modules did not come with a relay and they where recalled because they usually wouldn't last more than three or four days, and they decided that it was cheaper and easier to just add a relay instead of redesigning the modules)

 

the reason there is a pop (which the module should take care of) is because aftermarket radios and amps use a 12v signal to turn them on, and the factory ford systems use a 6v turn on signal, with most ford that do not use a module, you need to place a resistor (about 1450-1800 ohms) inline with the amp turn on wire to reduce the voltage and get rid of the pop, if you are still getting a pop i would try to add a resistor inline only with the factory wire, if you put it inline with both turn on wires then the aftermarket amp you have wont get enough voltage and will not turn on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

What about hooking the wire that normally power the AVIC (yellow wire) to triger the relay (pin 85) and than the relay will be connected to the battery (pin 87) and to the radio with pin 30.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but the yellow wire is the one that requires high current !

 

Like that the PAC signal will be use to triger the relay not at full current and it should maintain the accessory delay since the relay will open at the expiration of the delay and the radio will stop..

 

Doese this make sense ?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Correct me if I'm wrong but the yellow wire is the one that requires high current !

correct, but...

 

What about hooking the wire that normally power the AVIC (yellow wire) to triger the relay (pin 85)
... the yellow wire needs to have power all of the time(for memory) so it cant be used to trigger a relay or else the relay will be engaged all the time

 

Like that the PAC signal will be use to triger the relay not at full current and it should maintain the accessory delay since the relay will open at the expiration of the delay and the radio will stop..

the problem is that the PAC module (for what ever reason) is not able to keep a steady amount of power on its turn on output (red ACC) when the bass is hitting hard. and that why his system is resetting when it is turned up.

 

the red wire going into the avic is already like a relay trigger wire, as it does not need much current at all to have the AVIC turn on

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok came home and hooked the ipod up and let the radio play for 20 minutes without a problem with both red wires hooked up. I went ahead and installed the damn thing and lets hope and pray it works tomorrow when I drive it to work. Again I hooked both red wires up the one to the pac and one from the fuse box and it seems to be working fine.

 

Thanks everyone and I will let you know tomorrow night if it worked all day!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...



×
×
  • Create New...