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This sounds like it is completely NOT an option for a bypass. I will not lose NAV. The whole point of the bypass is so that you have NAV while driving. I am not going to unplug/replug stuff either. Maybe I misread it...?

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We didn't need 3 posted in all 3 forums with the same thing. I took the liberty of deleting the duplicates and left this one with the conversation.

 

And I agree with tillithz, this is pretty bad.

 

And they had things like this with the Z1. These switch based bypasses which "disconnect the GPS" don't work well or for very long. Eventually the Z1 would calibrate itself and if the vehicle was a rough riding SUV, the internal gyro's would sense movement.

 

For the first 30 - 100 miles of the Z1's life the internal gyro's would not contribute to the overall movement of the vehicle. So the Z1 took the movement info from the GPS antenna.

 

When you keep flipping that switch I think it resets the calibration of the internal gyros. The Z1 would feel the motion and watch the antenna and try to correlate the 2. People who kept flipping the switch a lot would be fine for a while. Then would go on a trip and leave the antenna connected and it would no longer work. Over the last year with www.sminntech.com I got sooooo many emails from people who's installers did stuff like this on their Z1's and then months later were bugging me to help them get it right.

 

I know all this is Z1 info and the Z2 is different, but it seems like they changed how the bypass is done... maybe making it harder to bypass. I would be surprised if they made this method of getting around the bypass easier to do (make this "hack" work on the Z2 but not on the Z1).

 

The biggest problem with something like this is people who might have been trying things might stop trying if there seems like there is something that might work.

 

901SoundsofMemphis, I do appreciate you sharing what you found. We all do. But this is not the solution. Look back at pretty much all the Avic's and there was something "simple" which needed to be found which just made it work all the time with no switches. Did you try resistors and measuring voltages like I talked about in my other post? Changing voltages and resistances?

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You're maybe right. we only had them for a week. we still need more time if there is a easier way.

We didn't need 3 posted in all 3 forums with the same thing. I took the liberty of deleting the duplicates and left this one with the conversation.

 

And I agree with tillithz, this is pretty bad.

 

And they had things like this with the Z1. These switch based bypasses which "disconnect the GPS" don't work well or for very long. Eventually the Z1 would calibrate itself and if the vehicle was a rough riding SUV, the internal gyro's would sense movement.

 

For the first 30 - 100 miles of the Z1's life the internal gyro's would not contribute to the overall movement of the vehicle. So the Z1 took the movement info from the GPS antenna.

 

When you keep flipping that switch I think it resets the calibration of the internal gyros. The Z1 would feel the motion and watch the antenna and try to correlate the 2. People who kept flipping the switch a lot would be fine for a while. Then would go on a trip and leave the antenna connected and it would no longer work. Over the last year with www.sminntech.com I got sooooo many emails from people who's installers did stuff like this on their Z1's and then months later were bugging me to help them get it right.

 

I know all this is Z1 info and the Z2 is different, but it seems like they changed how the bypass is done... maybe making it harder to bypass. I would be surprised if they made this method of getting around the bypass easier to do (make this "hack" work on the Z2 but not on the Z1).

 

The biggest problem with something like this is people who might have been trying things might stop trying if there seems like there is something that might work.

 

901SoundsofMemphis, I do appreciate you sharing what you found. We all do. But this is not the solution. Look back at pretty much all the Avic's and there was something "simple" which needed to be found which just made it work all the time with no switches. Did you try resistors and measuring voltages like I talked about in my other post? Changing voltages and resistances?

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