Multiple ACC Feeds from D3 - Soldering 101

[23V]

I'm working on installing my D3 in a Toyota FJ Cruiser. So far, so good. Along with the D3, I have the Sirius and Bluetooth modules, as well as the backup camera. They all require switched/ACC power.

 

I'd like to run all these off the red ACC power line from the factory harness. I soldered all of my other connections (1 wire to 1 wire) but am not sure how to solder to multiple wires (1 wire to 4 wires) together. Do I just strip the wires as usual, twist in a big lump and solder? Can I do 5 at once, together, or should I somehow solder each power connection separately?

 

I know this is Soldering 101 , but I can't find a detailed how-to on actually making the (multiple) connections.

 

Thanks.

[Ashhong]

If that wire can handle all that power, for an easy job, why not just t-tap them all in? I think it's ok.

[MisFit]

sirius doesnt take switched acc, it takes constant 12v

[necro]

I wouldn't try soldering that many cables together in one joint. Also, you might want to consider tapping off of something else besides that one power run in your harness. That's a lot of power pulling from one run.

[lseguy1]

I found a constant hot in my dash, and T-Tapped a single red wire to it. Ran that single wire over to the back of the glovebox, stripped off the end of that wire and the BlueTooth and XM module positive wires, and used an electrical twist cap for all three.

 

Pretty? No.

 

Effective and solid? Yes.

[23V]

sirius doesnt take switched acc, it takes constant 12v

 

You're right -- I double-checked products during lunch today. Both the Sirius module and the Bluetooth module take constant power (yellow wires). The backup camera uses switched accessory power (red wire).

 

I guess my question is more along the lines of: if I don't want to use t-taps (or wire nuts) to connect multiple wires, what's the best way to solder them?

 

Is there an good, easy way to strip insulation from the middle of a wire without cutting it? I tried with my Klein Tools stripper and it just kind of pushed the insulation together for about 3/8". Is that enough space to add in two additional wires in a T format? Heat shrink tubing can't be slid on without cutting, so I'd use 3M electrical tape to cover the joint.

[MisFit]

ok, lets clear a few things up here. first of all, you never, ever, ever use wire nuts in a car. t-taps are fine. and all your accessories is not too much of a load for one power source, none of that stuff is high current

[lseguy1]

Realizing that soldering is the BEST method for connecting car audio wires...

 

But whats the significant issue with using a wire nut to connect say..3 or more wires together? As long as that particular connection is clean, with the wire nut securely fastened. Whats the issue?

 

I've literally had a wire nut connection for another project I did going on 4 years now, with no problem at all.

[MisFit]

wire nuts are for houses, not cars. residential wiring doesnt get moved around once its installed. without being crimped there is potential for it loosening up from vibration

[RPyfrom1]

Oh and XM is also B+ not 12V+ Switched

[23V]

Got everything wired up this weekend. I soldered all connections, including those where multiple wires came together.

 

For the 12V switched and battery lines, I was able to remove about 1/2" of insulation from the feeds without cutting the wire using a wire stripper to make two parallel cuts and then an Xacto knife to remove the insulation. From there, it was easy to wrap the new lines around the stipped wire, heat, solder, wrap with electrical tape and then spiral wrap for added protection.

 

I practiced several times beforehand with some extra wire (highly recommended ) and was amazed at how strong the soldered connections are. I was afraid of them working loose over time, but after trying to physically pull them apart -- and not being able to -- I don't think that will be a problem.

 

Thanks for the help and advice.