ptkdude Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 I currently have a 5000NEX, and want to add two in-line switches to it. Specifically, I want to be able to cut off the illumination line with a switch; sometimes when my car's lights are on, it's still too bright outside to be able to see the screen so I want to be able to cut the power on the illumination line. I know I can adjust the brightness of the screen when dimming is active, but it would be less of a hassle with a switch. I also want to be able to cut the power to the unit for those "rare" times when CarPlay completely locks up both the phone and the NEX; I want to be able to restart the NEX without turning off the engine. What are y'all's thoughts on this? Also, what type of switches, etc, would I need? I took a look at the auto parts store, and they had switches with different amps and stuff. Thanks for any help or insight! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jhren Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Go for it. Practically any switch will work. The current on the dimmer lead is likely in the mA (milliampere) range. As to the ignition lead, I imagine most the power is through the battery lead. rated max current for the entire unit is 10A. If you want to be on the safe side, use one rated not less than 10A. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ptkdude Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Great, thanks for the advice. I never was any good at the electricity classes at work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nolarola Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 This is actually pretty clever. Please post your results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EditorDZ Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 I put in a switch for the antenna power line. Since the NEX can't be turned off, I wanted a way to retract the antenna while the engine is running. I used a simple toggle switch (looks like this one: https://www.jukebox-revival.eu/staging/media/catalog/category/toggleswitch.jpg). Works like a charm. Like jhren said, almost any switch should work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rockthebeef Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I was thinking about putting an inline switch in the power line for my AppRadio4 for the same exact reason. Thanks for confirming the underlying problem! I actually have contacted Pioneer to see if there was a way to power cycle the radio without turning off the ignition - no dice. I've experienced a few times when the radio crashes when trying to use CarPlay. Sometimes it'll sort of work, but take about a minute to respond to commands. This is no good if you're driving and don't want to pull over to restart the radio. A switch would definitely help to keep on truckin' and be able to reboot the radio. Any SPST switch should do the trick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RRSpikes Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 The blank cover next to the push button start is my solution to driving during daylight hours with my parking and or headlamps on while keeping my 7000's screen from dimming. I used an OEM foglight switch and epoxied the top of an OEM blank to it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
abRoncs Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 ptkdude, your NEX-5000 has removable buttons, if you remove the buttons the power cuts to the unit, just like removing the ignition key, thus no need for an additional switch. As for the illumination, I have the same problem, in Europe it's mandatory to drive with the headlights on even during the day, so the light switch signal is completely useless, for the moment I have added an in-line switch as well. A far more elegant solution would be from Pioneer to integrate a timered dimming feature (set the time when you want the HU to dim the light). My old HU, an 8 year old JVC KW-AVX800 had this feature. You would have thought Pioneer might catch on in 8 years time...but it seems it hasn't. I've written to Pioneer support about this (and other missing features), maybe they can roll out a firmware update. If more people would complain to Pioneer Support about the same things maybe we can get them to change things..... just my 2 cents. Cheers, Daniel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ptkdude Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Thanks for the note about removing the buttons to restart the unit; I'll give that a try. I've gotten the switches and stuff I need, but haven't had a chance to put them in yet. I'll update with the results once I get off my lazy butt and do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nolarola Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 I have no idea how switches work and am too lazy to research right now (not sure this will even be out there, specific enough for me to understand). Will a 3amp switch work to turn the unit on/off? Specifically, something like: http://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-961gr-12volt-toyota-oem-replacement-power-green-red.html I know someone above said use a 10amp switch above, so I'm thinking this will not work but would appreciate a lesson from you guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BAFU Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 I too have had issues with my 5000 locking up or not working. Removing the button faceplate for a few secs & reinstalling it reboots the unit perfectly. No need for a switch! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jhren Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 I have no idea how switches work and am too lazy to research right now (not sure this will even be out there, specific enough for me to understand). Will a 3amp switch work to turn the unit on/off? Specifically, something like: http://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-961gr-12volt-toyota-oem-replacement-power-green-red.html I know someone above said use a 10amp switch above, so I'm thinking this will not work but would appreciate a lesson from you guys. A 3A switch will work, but how long will depend on how much current is required through the ignition lead. If over 3A, the switch contacts will degrade and it will eventually cause problems (fail to work or melt and short, for example). If you really want to use that switch for its aesthetic appearance, and current draw on the ignition lead is greater than 3A, you can use it to energize the coil of a relay with contacts rated for 10A or greater. A relay is essentially an electrically controlled switch. However, if you fail to understand how a switch works, I believe you need to seek a higher authority to wire up a relay... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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