A new member found this, it's not so much of a true bypass as it is a hack or back door. Does anyone want to try this? It's not a solution or anything but it's a possibility of something. The problem is that it will be locked out initially then it will be unlocked when you start moving.

This is just a copy and paste of what he emailed me.....

The only mod I have is a toggle switch on the e-brake.

1) Power the vehicle and unit with e-brake on and the vehicle in park.

2) Hit the reset button on the lower left screen panel with a pen.

3) Let the unit reboot.

4) I have my unit to output to a rear monitor - I turn on the monitor and see the front screen.

5) Start a DVD and let it play for a few minutes while still in park and e-brake on.

6) Power off the car and turn the e-brake switch off.

7) Wait a few minutes before turning the car and unit back on.

8.) Start the car with e-brake off.

9) At no point should you see the message that the parking brake is inproperly connected, if so repeat from #1.

10) I turn my rear monitor back on before driving again.

11) Start driving and start DVD where it left off.

12) Flip the e-brake switch while driving.

13) Enjoy full video and NAV functions that won't go out so far - I'm up to 150 miles on my vehicle and watched video for an hour.

14) Each time you start the vehicle follow from #8.

15) If you forget to start from #8 and startup/drive with the e-brake on it will detect an improper e-brake connection. Once this happens you have to restart from #1.

This has yet to fail for me and my car states it's fully calibrated.

1. When I've reset the unit one time I also pushed the "restore to factory settings" button, which reset all callibrations back to zero. However, for the last now, 162.5 miles, I haven't reset or restored factory settings without any problems.

2. Yes, I don't flip the e-brake until after I'm moving up past say 25 miles or so. Until then, I have no use of extra nav or video functions. I will flip the switch while stationed in park if I need to. That doesn't seem to affect the unit detecting anything different.

3. Yes, my rear monitor is only connected to the Z2 through RCA cables. I don't enable or disable anything on the Z2.

4. Once I'm moving with the e-brake on, I can fully watch video or perform all NAV functions. I can flip through all menus, back and forth, switch sources, or do whatever without any problems. The only thing is "right after" you hit the reset button and are driving, while it initially callibrates, the NAV isn't very accurate with the e-brake on, it will "freeze" your current location, you can switch to dvd or audio, then back to map and your current position is updated. Mine however, is accurate as I drive now with the e-brake engaged.

Hope this helps.

Some further thoughts.......

1. The "reset" does reset the VSS, GPS, and internal gyro's back to zero. It will tell you the VSS is not connected and the positioning won't be as accurate but who cares. The GPS with e-brake off will recallibrate in minutes. The internal gyros take time. While the GPS is recallibrating the info screen will say "Learning.....initializing sensor" Once the GPS is callibrated the info will change (in my case) to "Learning.....Simple Hybrid" since I have a hybrid vehicle. At this point you can use the switch method and the NAV should be pretty accurate.

2. I will try the NAV today without any changes to video or playing the DVD. I don't think this will matter.

3. The WORST scenario about this mod is that you "reset" the unit once the int. gyros are callibrated...the "temp fix." No big deal really. You have a lot of time to drive between resets. You also have to continue the switch method.

4. The BEST scenario (in my case) about the mod is that you don't have to "reset" the unit once the int. gyros are callibrated, "semi-perm fix." (due to hybrid?....video output....DVD...who knows) and you continue with the switch method.

5. Either case should be reproducible by all owners and provide some temp relief until some of the more "wild" ideas (adding resistors, comparing hdd's, etc) are tested which may take months to figure out.

i will deffinitely try this tonight but quick question first DB

By E-brake switch does he mean he has it hooked up to the e-brake or just a switch emulating the e-brake. Like a toggle switch...

And if it is a toggle switch..one end will obviously be the e-brake wire and the other will be what? 12v, ground, or acc?

hope you reply soon so I can try this.

A toggle switch. One side to the light green parking brake wire, the other to ground

IT WORKS!!!!

SO FAR SO GOOD...

THANK YOU TO WHOEEVER FIGURED THIS OUT!

You don't have access to anything while stopped when you first start the vehicle. But once you start moving, flip the switch and you should be good to go till you turn the car off. Scary thing, if you have a VSS line working I could probably make an automatic circuit to do this.

You don't have access to anything while stopped when you first start the vehicle. But once you start moving, flip the switch and you should be good to go till you turn the car off. Scary thing, if you have a VSS line working I could probably make an automatic circuit to do this.

DB,

It sounds like you might be back in business.

THANK YOU to whoever discovered this and I am in no way taking credit, just wanted to pass on my instructions and hope you all enjoy your new bypassed Z2's!!!!

He is a member here by the name of Beachdoc. He found it, while is username was getting "approved" here he wanted me to pass this on for people to test.

It's still not as optimum as either bypass for the Z1, but I think you don't need to be moving, there is just an amount of time to wait before you trip the parking brake on...

5 seconds?

20 seconds?

a minute?

Any one want to test this for me?

Stay motionless and do all the reset stuff (or don't, just make sure you are not getting the parking brake pop up warning).... then turn on the parking brake after so many seconds (you can do this with a toggle switch or just apply your parking brake ever so slightly so the car thinks it's not but not really on). And then drive. See how quick we can pop on the parking brake with no error.

i reset everything,installed switch,after about 3 minuets i get improper paeking break and vidio goes out,i did disconnect vss wire,help

let me get a cpouple things straight we have to disconnect the vss wire permantly and do we also have to reset our z2 everytime we start our cars if we wanna watch dvd

It would be easier to keep all this in 1 forum but since 2 were started....oh well....

1. You have to use only an e-brake toggle

2. The VSS must be completely disconnected

3. You only need to reset the unit once with the e-brake on and vehicle parked...but you must start the vehicle from then on with the e-brake off and switch it on only after the unit is fully booted. If you get the parking brake error, then start again from #1 and only turn the e-brake on when video starts to play (initially no video) and moving >25mph to be sure. After you turn on the switch, the video will pop on and all NAV will work as long as the vehicle is running.

4. Once you turn the car off, turn the e-brake switch off and always start the vehicle with it off.

5. If you ever get the parking brake error, you did something different or wrong and will have to reset the unit and start back at #3. Otherwise, you shouldn't ever have to reset the unit again.

6. The only nuisance is the flipping of the e-brake switch.

Hope this helps.

Beachdoc

Check the topic above for more detailed info.

I wonder for other members on the forum, disconnecting the VSS wire is a huge dealbreaker for me. Do others feel this way about this backdoor bypass?

I am lazy, never bothered to hook up the VSS on any of my Pioneer navs. Never hurt performance enough to make me need it

well from what i see the speedometer on the nav doesnt work and my navs already calculated so everything works but the speedometer and also watching tv comes and goes so we got alot of work to do before we congratulate our selves but hey its a start and more than any of us can come up with so it will have to do for now i guess

Ok guys... DB you copied what I pasted into my post last night. The guy that sent this bypass to me ordered off of ebay. I saw he bought it and I emailed him and asked if it really worked. He then copied me what he bought and I posted. Kinda makes you made when you see that you work to help the cause and you get no credit.... long live the cause of breaking the New Z2

Ok guys... DB you copied what I pasted into my post last night. The guy that sent this bypass to me ordered off of ebay. I saw he bought it and I emailed him and asked if it really worked. He then copied me what he bought and I posted. Kinda makes you mad? when you see that you work to help the cause and you get no credit.... long live the cause of breaking the New Z2

What? Are you talking about this one?

http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6317

If you are talking about something else, then please fill me in... cause if there is something else you are thinking of, then I missed it.

I saw that post. And I do thank you for getting the information and posting it here. Thank you for trying to share the info.

The big reason why I thanked Beachdoc for this and not you for this was that what he found was the first one that kept the GPS and VSS wire intact (at least that's what I first thought, I think the VSS wire might need to be disconnected all the time and the GPS antenna can be connected all the time). What you posted is a switch that you flip when you want to fake the unit into thinking that it's sitting still even when you are moving. What Beachdoc sent me (what he found) was a way to keep the GPS functional and get it unlocked.

Is it me, or were these 2 very different functions?

I'm all for giving credit where it's due, and if I missed something I apologize. If I glossed over your post and didn't understand it fully, I apologize.

If it doesn't make you mad and it just

makes you made when you see that you work to help the cause and you get no credit....

Then I'm sorry I made you made.

long live the cause of breaking the New Z2

I agree... long live the bypass!

No I am cool... yea I saw the made part I was like oh this is going to look good... No you actually pulled it from my post I put this is what the guy emailed me... no big deal... the goal is to break the Z2 so that users can use it 100% unrestricted......

No I am cool... yea I saw the made part I was like oh this is going to look good...

You do know you can edit posts after you post them? Top right of the post is an "edit" button. You can fix things. Of course now that I have immortalized it in mine, you can't get rid of it totally.

No you actually pulled it from my post I put this is what the guy emailed me...

This one?

http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6317&start=5

I, nor beachdoc seem to have pulled anything from this one. Or were you thinking of a different post.

no big deal... the goal is to break the Z2 so that users can use it 100% unrestricted......

Well, it's kind of a big deal. I don't like getting accused of not giving someone credit where it's due and I would. Even if you are not pissed at it any more. I either missed a different post or you are mistakenly thinking that the one I liked to in this post from you is like the one I posted at the top of this thread. It's why whtcrxghst replied like he did.

What you posted is to switch out the GPS and VSS wires. And while Beachdoc did have 1/3 of what you posted (a switch on the parking brake wire), by itself it's significant cause that does not work on the Z1 and it only works like that on the Z2. What he found is to keep the navigation active while unlocking the system. What you posted is to trick the Z2 into thinking it's stopped while it's moving.

I thought it was a very big difference.

Or am I missing something?

today i did all again and it lasted a little longer about 4 miles to be exact but low and behold back came the parking break screen and out went vid and nav controls.is anyone else having the same problem

yup

today i did all again and it lasted a little longer about 4 miles to be exact but low and behold back came the parking break screen and out went vid and nav controls.is anyone else having the same problem

vss wire connected or disconnected? mine is connected and same issue as you state occurs

If your VSS wire is connected or was ever connected. Disconnect it and reset the calibration. Then try it. The remnants might be messing this up.

today i did all again and it lasted a little longer about 4 miles to be exact but low and behold back came the parking break screen and out went vid and nav controls.is anyone else having the same problem

I am having this problem too. When I first tried this bypass I disconnected the VSS but did not reset the calibration and it worked for a couple miles, I was really excited and I thought I had it but then I got the error. After that I stopped and reset the calibration and did the bypass again, now I get the error in less than a mile! I came in to read this thread again and it seems like I am following the instructions properly, so I am going to try a couple more times right now.

Ok, I have tried it a few times and a few different ways but I can't get it to work. Please help me find what I am doing wrong:

I reset everything to default and reset my calibration.

I go to the hardware connection status screen, and check the p brake is on when I flip the switch.

I reset the unit, let it reboot and put in a dvd. I get the popup messages for the maps and the dvd and i press ok, and start playing the dvd for min 30 seconds.

I turn my truck off, and open the door to kill the radio, then I turn off the p brake switch and wait 1 minute.

I start the truck and let the unit boot, once again I get the pop up screen for the dvd and I press ok. The dvd automatically plays from it's last position and I get sound.

Now I flip the p brake switch and I get video. I have done this step while parked and while moving >25. It only lasts a few minutes before I end up with the parking break error message.

Anyone see what I did wrong? Probably something stupid.

It sounds like you're doing what I did but I would try the following....

1) Before you reset the unit, go under settings and restore factory defaults, and go under 3D calibration - click on each of the three lower settings - distance, etc. and choose the option to reset all of those.

2) Reset the unit as you did.

3) I think a critical screen that I got that no one is mentioning is after you reset the unit and boot it up...you should see a screen stating the VSS is NOT detected or connected. This is good. This makes sure the VSS was reset.

3) Drive your truck with the e-brake OFF and watch the 3D calibration screen. Make sure you don't get a parking brake error during this period...that would indicate something wrong with the toggle or ground. i.e., it should be functioning like it supposed to be properly connected without the VSS.

4) Let it calibrate your GPS antenna. It will change from learning....initializing sensors to learning....simple hybrid.

5) Turn off the truck and let it sit for 30 sec. or so.

6) Restart the truck with e-brake off. Start the DVD. Hear the sound. Drive above 25 mph then hit the e-brake ON for the first time.

Let us know if that makes a difference.

Thanks.

Beachdoc