Beachdoc, thanks for the input. I actually did reset everything one by one on the calibration screen. I am not getting the screen you mention during reset saying the VSS is not connected. Are you sure your VSS wire isn't grounded? I previously had the VSS working on my truck but I disconnected it today when I tried this bypass. If I go the the connection status page it just shows the speed pulse as 0. Sounds like this is the clue I need to work with.

I just put a switch on my vss wire...just in case this didnt work...

I reset all the learning items 1st....as stated above...thne make sue the vss is off...and follow the instructions..

seems to work for me...I didnt go far yet, my nav didnt know I was moving without the vss on....but it worked ...

About to go test it for a 20 mile drive...wish me luck

I can't be sure my VSS isn't grounded...I had one of my friends install mine. I can ask him though. You can try a switch in case one works vs. the other. I would try without the bypass driving to get it calibrated and make sure you don't get the e-brake error. If you do, something else electrical is causing the problem. Just my take.

I sure wish we could figure out why Nissan and I got it to work and others are having problems with the e-brake error popping up. It seems everyone is having it within 10 miles or so. Drive without for 10 miles, the GPS should calibrate then try the bypass. That's all I can think of now.

I'd be glad to post some pics of my screens, speedometer, 3D calibration screen, NAV screen, dynamics screen, etc. if anyone thinks that may help find a diff. from my unit and theirs.

Another last thought would be a poll of those trying the bypass, who grounds the switch to the chassis vs. the harness? Even the slightest voltage diff could be the problem in the unit detecting the switch. We can also try metering the switch to ground and see if there are diffs.

Beachdoc

Beachdoc, thanks again for the input. I reset my unit again and decided that I will drive a while before I try the bypass. I think I might eventually get the VSS wire message and I will try the bypass again after that. My guess is that everyone who is having a problem has had their VSS connected in the past. I am sure that sometime during the new calibration process I will get the popup for the VSS wire and after that it will work fine.

Even the slightest voltage diff could be the problem in the unit detecting the switch. We can also try metering the switch to ground and see if there are diffs.

I highly doubt there is enough resistance to create a noticeable voltage differential between users. I can't remember what I measured but I think there is a 1 meg pullup on the parking brake (it might have been 100K). It was large. For a noticeable voltage difference it would need to be 5% of that number with would be 5K if it was the smaller resistance. And even that makes .5V. I would not think focusing on voltage differences between people who grounded wires would be fruitful.

i think what we need to know is exactly what people accessories we have installed with the z2 like the bluetooth ipod adapter etc.. because it only works on mine for a couple miles then stops and it seems other people are haveing the same probem and others arent the unit is to new for them to release diffrent types of software so its gotta be in the accessories

I think Ducatiboy is right...it's prob not voltage diff between the parking brake. I have NEVER connected my VSS wire. I think I have every option installed on my unit. Originally my unit had e-brake perm on and it didnt't work. The next thing was adding the switch, ipod, rear video and rear camera. Then it worked. I'm not sure why that would make a diff. Nissan07 has his working too, I wonder what accessories he has.

Beachdoc

I read Yzracer's post and I'm gettng the same messages.

I disconnected my VSS and added the spst toggle switch.

1. I start the vehicle, unit boots up and I check my parking brake status and its on.

2. Reset the unit, insert a dvd and let it play for 30 seconds.

3. Turn off vehicle and open the door to turn unit off and I turn the parking brake off.

4. Wait several minutes, restart vehicle with parking brake off.

5. Unit boots up and dvd audio comes on and I get the viewing dvd from front seat message.

6. I toggle parking switch on and dvd will play for approx. 4 miles then get the same message about viewing a dvd from the front seat.

Note: I start over from step one and follow directions and I always get the message about viewing a dvd from front seat while still in park. I know the parking brake is off. From Beachdoc's instruction he stated if I get the message to start over from step 1. I still do and I always get that message.

Beachdoc original instructions was that he was viewing his dvd from the rear monitor using RCA's cables.

Will that make difference?

I read Yzracer's post and I'm gettng the same messages.

I disconnected my VSS and added the spst toggle switch.

 

1. I start the vehicle, unit boots up and I check my parking brake status and its on.

2. Reset the unit, insert a dvd and let it play for 30 seconds.

3. Turn off vehicle and open the door to turn unit off and I turn the parking brake off.

4. Wait several minutes, restart vehicle with parking brake off.

5. Unit boots up and dvd audio comes on and I get the viewing dvd from front seat message.

6. I toggle parking switch on and dvd will play for approx. 4 miles then get the same message about viewing a dvd from the front seat.

 

Note: I start over from step one and follow directions and I always get the message about viewing a dvd from front seat while still in park. I know the parking brake is off. From Beachdoc's instruction he stated if I get the message to start over from step 1. I still do and I always get that message.

 

Beachdoc original instructions was that he was viewing his dvd from the rear monitor using RCA's cables.

Will that make difference?

I did the same and have the same result...except my vss is switced also..When my video goes out I flip the vss on for a sec then off and whola....video comes back

After reading my post, its misleading. I added the spst toggle to the parking brake. I didn't connect the VSS, I just ran the wires down towards the driver kick panel so if I had to I could wire in a switch.

I dont know what the reasoning is...but the unit will display the front seat warning...then I flip the vss switch on / off and the video continues to play until the next time the message appears...a few miles later..seems more prevalant during stop/go situations

My video never goes out and I don't know why. Also, when I reset my unit I got an error message stating the VSS wasn't connected and the map wouldn't be as accurate. No one else seems to get that message. I've always assumed my VSS wire was just cut. My friend who installed it said he didn't connect it. Perhaps, he grounded it to the harness? Would that make a diff? My speed pulse is always zero. Also, I think my unit might be the only virgin out of the group that has never had voltage to the VSS ever. Not sure what diff that makes either? I wish someone else that has it working would post their findings........

Beachdoc

I also got the vss not connected message yesterday..

I will try reseting the unit again and see if that makes a diff.

Timvan, how long did you have to go before you got the VSS message? I am hoping it works for you, I really believe getting the VSS message is part of the deal.

I got the VSS message right after I reset the unit and have never received an e-brake error and I haven't had to reset the unit....that's all I remember. I don't think you have to drive very far. It should be before the GPS unit callibrates with the e-brake off the entire time callibrating. Just my experience.

Beachdoc

ok guys, I might have made some progress. I reset my unit again and started my dvd with the switch on. After 30 secs of play I turned it off and turned the switch off. After starting again I just drove around until my calibration got to simple hybrid, then I selected dvd while driving and hit the switch. It is all working for now, over 10 miles! I am at the Dr now and I will take the long way home to see if it keeps working.

Yzracer....that seems very familiar to the way I got mine to work...hopefully it will work and we can have some methodology to this Pioneer madness!

Beachdoc

as i said in post i have vss wire disconnected and everything the way youall said.i have ipod,bluetooth,5700 tv tuner ,

it seems to me everone is so desperate they think it works .it seems that when the nave is recalibrating you have vid but once the calibration reaches a certain point it realizes your moving and you get the parking break message and out goes the vid .i find it hard to beleive that this works for everone but me.everone else whith the same issue should voice themselves so we all dont consentrate on this lame fix that doesnot seem to work.

Vap,

I can understand your frustration but I for one would never post a backdoor that isn't truly working. This was my fear in posting what I achieved in that in might not be reproducible by everyone. However, it seems the harder people are trying...the further and more successful it's becoming. It's simply a timing issue with the e-brake, resetting the VSS, and timing the callibration with the e-brake. I again never claimed this to be the perfect fix but at least I'm providing info and it's progress in understanding what the unit expects and looks for to access the backdoor.

If people are going to be critical, I won't post any further info and finding unless i'm pm'd.

Thanks.

Well I may have got ahead of myself, I got the parking break error just as I was pulling in the house. It did work longer than ever at just under 20 miles. I didn't notice any changes on the calibration screen, I am still at simple hybrid. It is possible that I messed it up myself when I went through a drive through and shut my truck off, so I will give this method another effort tomorrow. I feel like I am getting close and I am going to keep trying, there has to be a simple bypass for this thing like all the other models.

sorry beachdoc i dont mean to critisize but i see somany people putting so much time in a fix which is not a pemenant fix.myself included.i have been trying every concept to mechanically bypass this with no luck in my opinion its software and untill we figure out how to manipulate the software we are not there yet.i really did not mean to bash you and i appologize if i did ,all i meant was we should be looking at the software route instead of playing with something that isent fullproof.

Vap,

No harm and thanks for understanding. I too think the perm fix is in the software/OS. I wonder if unlocking my Z2 HDD and looking at the image if there's a callibration file, or system check file to manipulate. I'm in for my donating my image file if someone else wants to contribute.

I wonder if the callibrations are stored in the flashmem and kept by a constant voltage or written on the HDD as it learns. One might try to disconnect the negative lead for a few minutes then reconnect and see if the callibrations stay when booted. Would that be a useful idea?

i have run without vss wire conected and it learns at first,when you connect the vss wire it only seems to help it in speed of auto .it still has to cal. for direction,left.rt turning.that is why with or without the wire the unit knows your moving and shuts down vid.we need to find the script whitch is telling it to disable and remove this line or change to enable

Since I'm in the market for a AVIC-Z2 or similar I've been following a few of these bypass threads for a few days now. While the majority of the posts have been looking for some external physical bypass a few have indicated that the solution may be in the software itself.

To lend some credibility to that (potentially), I'd like to point all of you to a couple of links that might spark a conversation or two...

First;

http://msdn2.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ms858633.aspx

Using Windows Automotive

Electronic Driver Distraction Control

 

In the Windows Automotive version 4.2 environment, the OEM may be interested in minimizing distraction to the driver while the vehicle is in operation.

 

The OEM can implement support for an Electronic Driver Distraction Control (EDDC) that is used to notify EDDC-aware applications when the vehicle is in operation. This section provides information on how an OEM can implement this.

 

Messages delivering EDDC information can be binary in nature, meaning that the OEM-designated hardware interface should provide a Yes/No state that defines whether the vehicle is in operation. The OEM-designated hardware interface can come from any number of vehicle systems, such as emergency brake on/off, gearshift selection, or speed pulse from the speedometer.

 

Once the hardware interface provides the binary information, the EDDC driver posts a message for all applications that are listening for it. EDDC-aware applications can register to receive EDDC messages by calling functions on an EDDC control. Then, EDDC-aware applications can receive and respond to EDDC messages by adjusting their functionality.

 

EDDC-aware applications can also retrieve EDDC state information at any time by using an EDDC control.

 

With EDDC, Windows Automotive enables OEMs and application developers to work together at a system level to minimize distractions while a vehicle is in operation.

 

In this Section

EDDC Notification of State

Applications and EDDC

EDDC Hardware Interface

Building an EDDC Control

Building an EDDC Application

Writing an EDDC Driver

Followed by;

http://msdn2.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ms858638.aspx

Using Windows Automotive

EDDC Hardware Interface

 

The OEM is solely responsible for designating the EDDC hardware interface. This provides the OEM with the flexibility to decide which types of situations should represent an In Operation state.

 

In general, the hardware interface should be tied to some system component that would signify that the vehicle is being operated. For example, the interface may be tied to the parking brake, transmission, or other vehicle system. The OEM should select one specific vehicle system component to determine EDDC state for the hardware device. EDDC state can be expressed as a binary value (i.e. In Operation/Not In Operation).

Now it would not be a stretch to have the EDDC state tied to the integrated NAV such that when the car is moving (depending upon the detail or granularity of the GPS reciever) at some predetermined MPH/KPH that the EDDC state changes and certain so-called distracting features, like video are disabled as a result.

Now because the application(s) in the Z2 may be EDDC aware, the only way I can think of going after this is by looking for and modifying the EDDC driver such that it always returns the value indicating that the vehicle is NOT in operation regardless of the actual state of operation, no matter how many times that EDDC function is called.

So who has and is willing to upload the Z2 image, and my guess would be that it's not on the HD but on some flash or SD card in the unit itself...

This may be the first implementation of this particular feature, but it would not surprise me if other manufacturers of similar NAV integrated units did the same....

It seems odd that my system still doesn't shut off the video after 200 miles, it calibrates everything, and the dynamics work. I can't explain why. It has no VSS input or e-brake input. The diff. is my system isn't affected by the change in GPS position or int. gyros no matter how many miles I drive. I still think I did something diff on the initial calibration that told it not to look further for these things.

However, the soln is going to be in the HDD/OS. If it writes a file on the HDD to determine what it should be looking for then that should be much easier to find than trying to access the internal OS. If we check whether the calibrations are the same after disconnecting the battery then reconnecting, shouldn't that indicate whether it's an HDD file or the internal OS?